Just installed crash bolt.

[troek]

yeah i agree with the others about toe., however i dont think 1.5 degree camber will throw your toe off very much, but this is my first McPherson strut car. at the very least look up some DIY ways to check your toe. having toe off is THE fastest way to wear your tires down. that app will not help you with toe. it can only measure vertical angle differences.

[Ozzman]

Originally Posted by troek

yeah i agree with the others about toe., however i dont think 1.5 degree camber will throw your toe off very much, but this is my first McPherson strut car. at the very least look up some DIY ways to check your toe. having toe off is THE fastest way to wear your tires down. that app will not help you with toe. it can only measure vertical angle differences.

It can throw your toe off as much as 2 degrees, which will eat the hell out of tires. Go take the car to get a proper alignment done.

[troek]

wow yeah, 2 degrees is alot. is it common on this car to have the toe thrown off this much, or is that a worst case scenario? i went all the way to -3 degrees camber on my r32 and kept toe alignment, but that is double wishbone.

[deucethemoose]

Originally Posted by f0rge

SPC LCAs are only $300, i went this route

Also went this route. Put in the SPC toe arms as well since I was in there.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by eljefe

Are you guys trying to correct your camber, or get it to be more negative? im confused.

When i dropped my car the rear went negative so i want to bring it back to zero, obviously i cant use these cam bolts, so is my only option to buy 500 dollar LCA's?

Crash/camber bolts will let you run less camber up front as well... and no one makes a LCA with camber adjustment for the fronts.

Your only options for camber adjustment in the front is the camber/crash bolts, slotted upper hole on the struts or adjustable upper mounts.

For the rears you can use the camber bushing, modified camber/crash bolt or adjustable arms (either upper or lower).

[Calum]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Crash/camber bolts will let you run less camber up front as well... and no one makes a LCA with camber adjustment for the fronts.

Your only options for camber adjustment in the front is the camber/crash bolts, slotted upper hole on the struts or adjustable upper mounts.

For the rears you can use the camber bushing, modified camber/crash bolt or adjustable arms (either upper or lower).

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31424
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30963

[donutfilling]

Originally Posted by eljefe

Are you guys trying to correct your camber, or get it to be more negative? im confused.

When i dropped my car the rear went negative so i want to bring it back to zero, obviously i cant use these cam bolts, so is my only option to buy 500 dollar LCA's?

Not even the factory alignment has 0 camber.. I don't think you would want 0 camber in the rear.

[f0rge]

After installing the SPC arms my alignment was a disaster, way worse than after having just done the springs. Toe was especially messed up but they were able to get it into spec without having to install the toe bushings or get adjustable toe arms. The factory arms are adjustable.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Calum

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31424
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30963

I wouldn't touch those for camber adjustment, way too easy to mess up caster and other adjustments when trying to adjust camber. With a strut I'd much rather have slotted struts or adjustable upper mounts.

I have the same opinion for adjustable LCA's for the rear, you *need* adjustable trailing links too to keep everything lined up right.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by f0rge

After installing the SPC arms my alignment was a disaster, way worse than after having just done the springs. Toe was especially messed up but they were able to get it into spec without having to install the toe bushings or get adjustable toe arms. The factory arms are adjustable.

The factory toe arms are adjustable, but the trailing link isn't. But if you're adjusting the LCA and toe arm, you really should be adjusting the trailing link. And the cycle continues.

Originally Posted by wparsons

I wouldn't touch those for camber adjustment, way too easy to mess up caster and other adjustments when trying to adjust camber. With a strut I'd much rather have slotted struts or adjustable upper mounts.

I have the same opinion for adjustable LCA's for the rear, you *need* adjustable trailing links too to keep everything lined up right.

I wouldn't either. I only posted the links to show that they exist. I have whiteline camber bushings for the rear but I'm not really sure about installing them and trusting a shop to ensure that both bushings per side are clocked to the same position, to ensure they don't add caster while they're adjusting camber. I'd really like to see a single adjustable UCA that isn't stupidly expensive.

Actually, that's a lie, what I really want to do is base line the alignment and find that the rear is exactly where I want it.