Crash Bolt Part Number?

[Dezoris]

Can someone provide the part numbers for the crash bolts on the FR-S and BRZ?

[gmookher]

do search

[RallySport Direct]

It is on the forums here, but the part number to the crash bolts, or camber bolts is:
901000394


Thanks,
Rick

[brz7400]

Took some pics while installing mine today, hope this helps.


Of the 2 bolts that attach the strut to the hub, replaced the upper one. Also loosened the bottom nut to allow smooth articulation before tightening both back up.


Here is the difference between the 14mm camber bolt vs. the 16mm stock bolt. The 14mm bolt allows slight adjustment, I guess ~2mm against the 16mm hole.


I don't have a camber gauge, but did verify gain of negative camber.
I set a vertical straight edge up against the tire at the ground & against the fender on top (at centerline of the wheel by positioning it visibly centered through the center cap).
Using a horizontal ruler/tape measure, measured the distance from edge of the vertical straight edge to the top edge of the wheel.

Stock = distance was 0.8"
After 14mm camber bolt = distance was 1.1" after settling/driving.

No idea what degree gain that is, but roughly playing with numbers on an online triangle calculator seems to indicate about a 1 degree gain in negative camber.

Only went for a short drive today, but I feel the tires squealing easier than before? Maybe I am hearing the rear instead of the fronts now? From what I felt on today's short drive, I think I prefer the stock setup for the street, lol.
Will have to wait for Saturday autocross practice day to see what it handles like when pushed harder.

[ayau]

Originally Posted by brz7400

Took some pics while installing mine today, hope this helps.


Of the 2 bolts that attach the strut to the hub, replaced the upper one. Also loosened the bottom nut to allow smooth articulation before tightening both back up.


Here is the difference between the 14mm camber bolt vs. the 16mm stock bolt. The 14mm bolt allows slight adjustment, I guess ~2mm against the 16mm hole.


I don't have a camber gauge, but did verify gain of negative camber.
I set a vertical straight edge up against the tire at the ground & against the fender on top (at centerline of the wheel by positioning it visibly centered through the center cap).
Using a horizontal ruler/tape measure, measured the distance from edge of the vertical straight edge to the top edge of the wheel.

Stock = distance was 0.8"
After 14mm camber bolt = distance was 1.1" after settling/driving.

No idea what degree gain that is, but roughly playing with numbers on an online triangle calculator seems to indicate about a 1 degree gain in negative camber.

Only went for a short drive today, but I feel the tires squealing easier than before? Maybe I am hearing the rear instead of the fronts now? From what I felt on today's short drive, I think I prefer the stock setup for the street, lol.
Will have to wait for Saturday autocross practice day to see what it handles like when pushed harder.

awesome pics and directions. do you think it's better off to get an alignment after the install? if you just do the bolt swap, will that mess up the toe/caster?

[brz7400]

Originally Posted by ayau

awesome pics and directions. do you think it's better off to get an alignment after the install? if you just do the bolt swap, will that mess up the toe/caster?

That's a good point. Since caster remains the same, I guess negative camber with tie rod on the backside of the hub would change toe to slightly in? Is that why I felt the tire squeals easier than before? Did I end up getting more understeer by doing camber bolts without getting alignment?
That's not gonna be good at the autocross!

[Dezoris]

Thanks for posting this up!!

However I realize the part is interchangeable but does Scion have a part number for the same bolts? Or is the part number the same?

[Dezoris]

Found It:
Scion Part Number: SU003-02818

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

Found It:
Scion Part Number: SU003-02818

Check pricing BTW. IIRC someone said Scion sold them for more but I can't recall for sure. I think I paid around 9.50 or so total for two bolts.

[ft86Fan]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

Check pricing BTW. IIRC someone said Scion sold them for more but I can't recall for sure. I think I paid around 9.50 or so total for two bolts.

With tax Scion charged me $17.03 for the 2 bolts

[F1point4]

Originally Posted by brz7400

Only went for a short drive today, but I feel the tires squealing easier than before? Maybe I am hearing the rear instead of the fronts now? From what I felt on today's short drive, I think I prefer the stock setup for the street, lol.
Will have to wait for Saturday autocross practice day to see what it handles like when pushed harder.

The squealing might be from your toe falling out of spec during the install. Mine did.

[ft86Fan]

Originally Posted by brz7400

I don't have a camber gauge, but did verify gain of negative camber.
I set a vertical straight edge up against the tire at the ground & against the fender on top (at centerline of the wheel by positioning it visibly centered through the center cap).
Using a horizontal ruler/tape measure, measured the distance from edge of the vertical straight edge to the top edge of the wheel.

Stock = distance was 0.8"
After 14mm camber bolt = distance was 1.1" after settling/driving.

No idea what degree gain that is, but roughly playing with numbers on an online triangle calculator seems to indicate about a 1 degree gain in negative camber.

Were you able to get the additional camber gain by just loosening the 2 bolts that attach the strut to the hub (of course after replacing the top bolt)? Did you also have to loosen the strut top?

[brz7400]

Originally Posted by ft86Fan

Were you able to get the additional camber gain by just loosening the 2 bolts that attach the strut to the hub (of course after replacing the top bolt)? Did you also have to loosen the strut top?

Only need to loosen the 2 bolts that attach lower part of the strut to hub. That allows the hub to lean slightly inward, then tighten back up.
Minimal work really, (5 nuts to get wheel off + 1 nut off to replace bolt + loosen 1 nut to allow hub rotate inward, then tighten back up) X 2.

[brz7400]

Originally Posted by F1point4

The squealing might be from your toe falling out of spec during the install. Mine did.

Thanks for the confirmation, that's what I am figuring, I have introduced slight toe in. Guess I could easily shorten both tie rods a turn each, but that may require few adjustments if a turn is not enough/too much.

I forgot to grab the square tube toe gauge thing that I have stored at my old man's house, so may just wait until weekend to check/play with the toe setting...