Brake cooling

[Slick]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

Take spare coils for 1 and 3!

I havent heard anything from Wonderbar about cutting out a heat shield. I'm still trying to find a diagram showing physical measurements of the coils so I can bug the aftermarket ignition companies about suitable substitutions. I'm sure there's already something developed for another car that would work just fine, it's just a matter of finding it.

There is a pretty common upgrade for RX8's that keep blowing coils to use coils for the LS(x) V8 engines that are fairly inexpensive (vs. OEM). They are also much better and don't fail like OEM ones so maybe look into those and see if they might work on our twins.

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

Take spare coils for 1 and 3!

I havent heard anything from Wonderbar about cutting out a heat shield. I'm still trying to find a diagram showing physical measurements of the coils so I can bug the aftermarket ignition companies about suitable substitutions. I'm sure there's already something developed for another car that would work just fine, it's just a matter of finding it.

Two new revised part number OEM coils should be arriving tomorrow in the nick of time. I'm replacing my #3 which is throwing P0353 with a new one and keeping another as a spare. My #1 was replaced back in March with the same CEL issue (P0351) and has been fine since.

Originally Posted by Slick

There is a pretty common upgrade for RX8's that keep blowing coils to use coils for the LS(x) V8 engines that are fairly inexpensive (vs. OEM). They are also much better and don't fail like OEM ones so maybe look into those and see if they might work on our twins.

Don't want to go too off topic but there's ongoing discussion on this issue including the idea of using the popular GM coils with heat sinks on them here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30879

Though the LSX coils are an odd shape and have a very slim chance of fitting in the FA20 heads as-is.

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

Two new revised part number OEM coils should be arriving tomorrow in the nick of time.

You think it would be worth using your brake duct hose from that side to route cool air over that area? Since you're using the GT3 ducts for your brakes now, the brake duct could be repurposed. It would at least keep the heat from the exhaust from stagnating right over the coils.

That may pressurize the engine bay though, without some way for the air to escape. @plucas or @eric6 might be able to speak towards that.

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

You think it would be worth using your brake duct hose from that side to route cool air over that area? Since you're using the GT3 ducts for your brakes now, the brake duct could be repurposed. It would at least keep the heat from the exhaust from stagnating right over the coils.

That may pressurize the engine bay though, without some way for the air to escape. @plucas or @eric6 might be able to speak towards that.

It may help to an extent it but I sold my TF brake cooling kit as a whole to @AZP Installs. I think the head is going to heat soak the coils either way and the overpipe without a ceramic coating or heat shield is just going to accelerate the heat soak on that side. At this point I feel that a high performance coil with a heatsink and hotter spark is the best solution and would kill two birds with one stone.

[knipple]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

The Endurance is actually easier to clear with most wheels than the sprint.

Do you know if Enkei RPF-1 17x9 et +35 will clear the Endurance kit?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by knipple

Do you know if Enkei RPF-1 17x9 et +35 will clear the Endurance kit?

No, but I'll find out

[chonody]

I recently installed some Porsche brake ducts and noticed that the brake dust shield pretty much blocks the flow of air. So I took some tin snips and went to town. I just cut off the very tip of the shield right under the bolt. Bent it out a little bit, filed the rough edges, and sprayed it black to prevent rust and ugly. Good to go!

[fstlane]

I chose a slightly different implementation of the Porsche ducts by using ones from a 993. I like the profile and they match the contour of the control arm rather well. I wanted something to add a little brake cooling capacity for an occasional track day but the car needs to remain legal for autocross STX class.

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by fstlane

I chose a slightly different implementation of the Porsche ducts by using ones from a 993. I like the profile and they match the contour of the control arm rather well. I wanted something to add a little brake cooling capacity for an occasional track day but the car needs to remain legal for autocross STX class.

Looks good. How did you mount those to the arms? I see they have tabs for screws on the back of them but I'm not sure you were able to use those.

[fstlane]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

Looks good. How did you mount those to the arms? I see they have tabs for screws on the back of them but I'm not sure you were able to use those.

Thanks ATL BRZ! I just used 3M automobile attachment tape across the face of the control arm as well as under the taps that rests on top. I originally planned on drilling a couple of holes to run cable ties through as well but it's surprisingly secure as is. I suppose someone could drill a small hole for a screw or bolt without compromising the integrity of the arm.

Here's a picture of the back of the scoop while I was mocking up the tape placement. The tape I had wasn't wide enough so I ran two strips and cut pieces for under the tabs.

I went ahead and installed a couple of cable ties just for good measure.

[Slick]

Will be working on completing the brake ducting on my car this weekend but looking for feedback on another issue:

Broken Bolts.

In the past month I have broken a caliper bracket bolt, 4 dust shield bolts and I am now finding that some of my front wheel studs are getting harder to torque consistently.

Background:

• Had car since June 2012
• Winter driving
• Approx. 2 track days per month in summer
• HP+ on fronts, stock calipers.
• Driving instructor, typically lap faster 4-10 secs faster than others in same car (2:30 typical lap)
• Light and smooth on the brakes at the track

Could there be this much heat being generated that these bolts are getting weakened by the heat?



I am working on completing the brake cooling this weekend regardless (ducts routed through to centre of rotor backside) and this will obviously add much cooling, but curious if anyone has had similar issues with breakage?


I used to run a Miata in Time Attack years ago and just pounded that car every weekend, and never had issues of this kind.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Slick

Will be working on completing the brake ducting on my car this weekend but looking for feedback on another issue:

Broken Bolts.

In the past month I have broken a caliper bracket bolt, 4 dust shield bolts and I am now finding that some of my front wheel studs are getting harder to torque consistently.

Background:

• Had car since June 2012
• Winter driving
• Approx. 2 track days per month in summer
• HP+ on fronts, stock calipers.
• Driving instructor, typically lap faster 4-10 secs faster than others in same car (2:30 typical lap)
• Light and smooth on the brakes at the track

Could there be this much heat being generated that these bolts are getting weakened by the heat?



I am working on completing the brake cooling this weekend regardless (ducts routed through to centre of rotor backside) and this will obviously add much cooling, but curious if anyone has had similar issues with breakage?


I used to run a Miata in Time Attack years ago and just pounded that car every weekend, and never had issues of this kind.

I'd recommend you use a torque wrench, and use anti-seize on the wheel studs. Make sure the other bolts are also clean, and if you're changing things regularly, also use anti-seize, and make sure to re-torque them after a session of getting hot.

Most anti-seize has a 1500F+ heat tolerance; the stuff we ship with our lug nuts is 2000F+.

[Slick]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I'd recommend you use a torque wrench, and use anti-seize on the wheel studs. Make sure the other bolts are also clean, and if you're changing things regularly, also use anti-seize, and make sure to re-torque them after a session of getting hot.

Most anti-seize has a 1500F+ heat tolerance.

I always use a torque wrench and never air-tools, crack them with a pivot bar and then remove with a cordless drill (re; wheel nuts).
Any of the new brake bolts going back on have been getting anti-seize already, but will do so for the wheel studs as well.

Just very strange with the breakage of the factory bolts upon first removal.

[Hyper4mance2k]

Late bump & helping others in the future.
I just ordered some GT3 brake ducts from Porsche of Beverly Hills, and they are $7.11 each. Part number 997 341 483 92 for the Left and 997 341 484 92 for the right.