Brake cooling

[glamcem]

@ATL BRZ it seems like some people were able the AP Racing BBK with the APR Brake ducting kit , I have to say though that's the funniest routing I've seen and I am not sure how it would be effective with all those angles and whatnot .. but it means that their spindle works with BBKs and "overcooling" was not an issue for them





and here's the link
http://www.frs-tuner.com/tag/apr-performance/

if you ever change your mind, you have an option out there, lol
but I am telling you I think my method is more effective and cheaper than that, but definitely a lot uglier

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by glamcem

I don't believe the term "overcooling" and I never experienced or heard someone experienced that however, you can always crack your rotors with mismatched pads or tires, some pads are hasher than the others due to their operating temps

You can overcool brakes, as well as coolant, oil, etc. You want to be in the operating range, with minimal fluctuation. Fluctuations are what really break things, while hear wears things down.

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

You can overcool brakes, as well as coolant, oil, etc. You want to be in the operating range, with minimal fluctuation. Fluctuations are what really break things, while hear wears things down.

oh you can always overcool your coolant and/or oil but that's a whole different thing

I seriously doubt you can overcool your brakes at track/racing event since I've never had or seen/heard someone did that..then again I don't know anyone from arctic zone

even if that's the case I think that's probably due to brake pads' operating temps and not because of the brake ducts.. It is really hard to relate that to the brake ducting and if there's a case study on that I would love to see it

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by glamcem

oh you can always overcool your coolant and/or oil but that's a whole different thing

I seriously doubt you can overcool your brakes at track/racing event since I've never had or seen/heard someone did that..then again I don't know anyone from arctic zone

even if that's the case I think that's probably due to brake pads' operating temps and not because of the brake ducts.. It is really hard to relate that to the brake ducting and if there's a case study on that I would love to see it

Huge fluctuations in temperature is what cracks rotors. You'll understand how big an issue it is when you get to that point.... it cost us a win at SLB last year when we shattered a rotor.

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Huge fluctuations in temperature is what cracks rotors. You'll understand how big an issue it is when you get to that point.... it cost us a win at SLB last year when we shattered a rotor.

and that could be caused by many other things and AFAIK most of the time the heat is the main cause of the cracks and busted rotors

I agree with you about the fluctuations but the keyword here is "huge fluctuations" and like I said I don't think the fog light brake ducting can cause those fluctuations and do any harm than the good.. I also understand that certain pads require certain operating temps you really have to heat them up but that's still a different thing

maybe @rice_classic can chime in and share his experiences on the subject (overcooling the brakes)since he is an instructor here in PNW and attends many races

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by glamcem

and that could be caused by many other things and AFAIK most of the time the temperature fluctuation is the main cause of the cracks and busted rotors

I agree with you about the fluctuations but the keyword here is "huge fluctuations" and like I said I don't think the fog light brake ducting can cause those fluctuations and do any harm than the good.. I also understand that certain pads require certain operating temps you really have to heat them up but that's still a different thing

maybe @rice_classic can chime in and share his experiences on the subject (overcooling the brakes)since he is an instructor here in PNW and attends many races

FTFY.

Ducting brings the equilibrium point down, but also comes at the cost of larger temperature swings. This application of ducting is a band-aid for a braking system that is just too small.

[Malt]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

FTFY.

Ducting brings the equilibrium point down, but also comes at the cost of larger temperature swings. This application of ducting is a band-aid for a braking system that is just too small.

Ok, so if it was up to you, what would be ideal setup for a 86 on sticky tires at a track like say... VIR full? The APR sprint or endurance kit?

I'm in the market for a BBK and I only want to spend money on a BBK once (excluding maintenance costs).

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Malt

Ok, so if it was up to you, what would be ideal setup for a 86 on sticky tires at a track like say... VIR full? The APR sprint or endurance kit?

I'm in the market for a BBK and I only want to spend money on a BBK once (excluding maintenance costs).

If you're driving at my level or higher? What kind of sticky tires? Sticky street tires/R-comps/slicks?

What power level? Weight reduction?

There's a lot of variables I need to know to say for sure.

For 95% of the guys out there, the sprint kit will be more than enough, but we upgraded to the Endurance kit on our car based on our observations. We'll need it, and it's better to have too much than not enough in the brake dept.

[Malt]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

If you're driving at my level or higher? What kind of sticky tires? Sticky street tires/R-comps/slicks?

What power level? Weight reduction?

There's a lot of variables I need to know to say for sure.

For 95% of the guys out there, the sprint kit will be more than enough, but we upgraded to the Endurance kit on our car based on our observations. We'll need it, and it's better to have too much than not enough in the brake dept.

There's no way I'm at your level of driving ability but assuming R-Comps with slightly lower than stock weight and say.... 300 whp. Is it worth stepping up to the endurance set over the sprint.

In all honesty the sprint setup is most likely WELL above what I need in terms of my ability as a driver, I'd just hate to shaft myself over a $500 difference in price between the endurance set and sprint set. I haven't bought wheels yet so I'm still able to go either way, but the last thing I want to do is respend money when I could of just bought something overkill that would have suited my needs.

Is there anything detrimental about the endurance set as opposed to the sprint set that I should be aware of?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Malt

There's no way I'm at your level of driving ability but assuming R-Comps with slightly lower than stock weight and say.... 300 whp. Is it worth stepping up to the endurance set over the sprint.

In all honesty the sprint setup is most likely WELL above what I need in terms of my ability as a driver, I'd just hate to shaft myself over a $500 difference in price between the endurance set and sprint set. I haven't bought wheels yet so I'm still able to go either way, but the last thing I want to do is respend money when I could of just bought something overkill that would have suited my needs.

Is there anything detrimental about the endurance set as opposed to the sprint set that I should be aware of?

The rotors and pads cost more, but should require less replacing. The Endurance is actually easier to clear with most wheels than the sprint.

I'd agree, the Sprint will probably be enough for you. Let us know if you decide to purchase

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by glamcem

you can always put some gorilla tapes on these fog light ducts but I am willing to bet you overcooling will never be an issue ( I wish I had an issue like that, that would be the least of my problems.. lol)

Gorilla Tape - been there, done that. Kinda hard on the paint, at least the kinda paint's on a track car.

As for overcooling never being an issue...yeah, I can see how that's possible.

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by dradernh

Gorilla Tape - been there, done that. Kinda hard on the paint, at least the kinda paint's on a track car.

As for overcooling never being an issue...yeah, I can see how that's possible.

you don't have to apply on the paint, if you can just use on the plastic are on the fog light duct, it should be fine..

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

FTFY.

Ducting brings the equilibrium point down, but also comes at the cost of larger temperature swings. This application of ducting is a band-aid for a braking system that is just too small.

Mike in one of the earlier posts you suggested the brake cooling ducts with BBK and I agree with you

That's what we use on our car. Ducting is ALWAYS good to have. We use the stock brakes in the rear

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=43

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by glamcem

Mike in one of the earlier posts you suggested the brake cooling ducts with BBK and I agree with you


http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=43

It's always good to have, but don't overdo it.