which springs to buy??

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by leicaboss

Couldn't we cut our bumpstops for Swift usage? Or perhaps you also sell some bump stops?

You can but it's not exactly the same. If you cut the soft end of the OEM bumpstop you're hitting the harder end with less of a softer progression to that point and it's a little abrupt. Cut the firm end and you run the risk of bottoming the shock too hard without the bumpstop adequately providing protection.

You can do it in a way that "works" but I'll always prefer a whole new bumpstop designed to work as a whole piece. We unfortunately do not sell our separately.

- Andy

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by was385

As much as I love the springs, I would seriously look into how much time (and cost if you pay someone else) those bushings take to install and adjust before going that route. Scared me off.

This is valid...we've seen a few horror stories from shops that mess it up. Done properly, I think it's the way to go for rear camber adjustment as replacing that upper bushing with something firmer makes a strong difference in feel/handling in addition to the camber adjustment.

But...things aren't always done properly and just doing an LCA is fine too (or nothing at all, but I'm anal).

Whiteline makes a non-adjustable bushing there that still needs to be pressed in, but it's less likely to be a screwed up install. That plus maybe the Whiteline LCAs would be a good way to go.

But just the LCAs would be fine too.

- Andy

[was385]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

This is valid...we've seen a few horror stories from shops that mess it up. Done properly, I think it's the way to go for rear camber adjustment as replacing that upper bushing with something firmer makes a strong difference in feel/handling in addition to the camber adjustment.

But...things aren't always done properly and just doing an LCA is fine too (or nothing at all, but I'm anal).

Whiteline makes a non-adjustable bushing there that still needs to be pressed in, but it's less likely to be a screwed up install. That plus maybe the Whiteline LCAs would be a good way to go.

But just the LCAs would be fine too.

- Andy

Yeah, at least for my application, the natural camber from the lowering was perfectly fine for AutoX and DD duty. Ideally, it would be the same on both sides but it's just not worth the time or energy to me. Obviously everyone's application and preferences are different though.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by was385

Yeah, at least for my application, the natural camber from the lowering was perfectly fine for AutoX and DD duty. Ideally, it would be the same on both sides but it's just not worth the time or energy to me. Obviously everyone's application and preferences are different though.

Yup, without anything you do end up in the range of where you should be anyway.

- Andy

[Gunman]

Originally Posted by Wepeel

2nd'd. BRZ stock ride frequencies should be in the 1.4-1.5 Hz range, front and rear.

@racecomp_engineering

I found a couple mistakes in the formula, and my numbers are closer to those in the thread you linked, but still not exact.

Not sure what's different. Feel free to take a look, if my formula is off, I'd like to get it corrected.

[Turdinator]

Originally Posted by was385

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=34

It may have settled a small amount since this picture was taken but that's about the ride height. For me I'm not a fan of a huge drop, was interested in performance first and foremost, and didn't want something that was too low and would kill my struts overnight, so this was the easy answer.

What offset are your RPF1s?

[was385]

Originally Posted by Turdinator

What offset are your RPF1s?

17x8 +45 maxed out oem camber bolts and no rubbing, though the clearance is tight.


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[TwoFourFive]

Ended up going with the eibach pro kit