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Old 03-04-2014, 05:37 PM   #71
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Who was this directed to?
You, if the car you're referring to is yours and not something you are helping build and tune for someone else.

600hp is a lot last time I checked.
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Old 03-04-2014, 05:40 PM   #72
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You, if the car you're referring to is yours and not something you are helping build and tune for someone else.

600hp is a lot last time I checked.

Yes this is actually for my personal vehicle.

I simply don't want to invest in a part that has a cap close to where my car may end up being. The fun thing about turbo's is you can run them out of their efficiency range and make a little 'extra' power over what you are intending, and simply activate this via map switching a button, a knob, or however you want. I purchased a semi-properly sized turbo for my setup that could potentially push that far, and if i decide one day I want to push it further an upgrade is extremely easy to do. I'll eventually post a build thread. And personally I am not using a huge turbo, I just happen to have a fairly high compression engine with forged internals.

Remember 350WTQ @ 8,200RPM is roughly 550WHP. So the basis of 600WHP is confusing, and not quite useful to someone like me. I just wondered if this had a TQ rating based off force, or if maybe it happened to be 600WHP based off the acceleration of the rotation or something like that so I could get an idea of what the limits were and if the carbon drive shaft was really required for my personal vehicle. I am planning on 300-375WTQ ballpark on a "high power" map.
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Old 03-04-2014, 05:51 PM   #73
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I'm curious as well however my vehicle will probably never see North of 300whp even after I'm bored with NA and grab a SC.


What I'm more curious about is how much and what type of noise will be added.

Since I'm debating on selling my crank pulley since it whines (we'll see if I can hear it over the headers)
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Old 03-05-2014, 12:56 AM   #74
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A rule of thumb on all my builds is to overbuild and under tune if you want something that will last a long time. However, if you're a one hit wonder type builder then this doesn't apply. If you're near the limits there is no sense in buying something that just barely covers your butt because instead it often just comes back to bite it instead. I can't count how many forum buddies my cars have outlasted as a result of this thinking. Unless you have endless funding then do whatever you want. Personally if you invest enough to build a 600hp 86 then why cheap out on a fairly critical component that puts that power where it belongs?
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:22 AM   #75
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A rule of thumb on all my builds is to overbuild and under tune if you want something that will last a long time. However, if you're a one hit wonder type builder then this doesn't apply. If you're near the limits there is no sense in buying something that just barely covers your butt because instead it often just comes back to bite it instead. I can't count how many forum buddies my cars have outlasted as a result of this thinking. Unless you have endless funding then do whatever you want. Personally if you invest enough to build a 600hp 86 then why cheap out on a fairly critical component that puts that power where it belongs?
This exactly which is why I was wondering details about the limits. As at the time I am considering steel. I am wondering if anyone has tested the joints in the oem driveshaft. I have no desire to upgrades driveshaft unless I need to due to disk of damage from acceleration rate. I will not be drag racing my car. I have been overbuilding my car for my desires. Personally I just want 300whp. But we know how that goes
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Old 03-06-2014, 03:35 PM   #76
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My SHAFT arrived just now. I plan to play with my SHAFT and install it this weekend

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Old 03-06-2014, 04:10 PM   #77
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^^^ that shaft is one longfella
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Old 03-06-2014, 04:56 PM   #78
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^ LOL!
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Old 03-10-2014, 01:36 PM   #79
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Driveshaft Shop Carbon and Aluminium Lightweight Driveshafts - Video

I installed my SHAFT yesterday

It's a noticeable improvement when revving the engine. I also installed a pulley kit by Raceseng, so that adds to the quickness too.

It was a really easy installed. Had my car on four Jack stands and was able to get to everything.

The four bolts at the rear end of the shaft where a PITA to get loose!

I've noticed a very very slight shaking of my rear view mirror. Nothing crazing and you don't really feel anything, but you can see it when you look at the mirror. I'll try that 90 degree rout action thing and see if it goes away... If not, I'm not worried about it since it really isn't that noticeable. Maybe it's the Supercharger kit I installed too

All in all, it's a great SHAFT and feels amazing!
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Old 03-14-2014, 11:00 AM   #80
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Driveshaft Shop Carbon and Aluminium Lightweight Driveshafts - Video

After a few days of driving around, it is definitely a noticeable difference compared to stock. My revs drop significantly quicker between shifts and the engines feels more agile.

For such an easy install and improvement in driving feel, it was worth every penny! Thanks @FT-86 Speed Factory
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Old 03-14-2014, 11:52 AM   #81
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We have the Carbon one on our race car with lightweight flywheel, lightweight pulleys and 4.67 final gear. The car revs insanely quick.
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Old 03-14-2014, 12:50 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FT-86 SpeedFactory View Post
We have the Carbon one on our race car with lightweight flywheel, lightweight pulleys and 4.67 final gear. The car revs insanely quick.
Same here with all the same goodies on mine minus the 4.67 final (which I want ) With those components it really does wind up fast. I totally forgot you guys had the 4.67 in yours. Now I am bummed I didn't stay to go out on the track with you in CA.
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Old 03-18-2014, 04:55 AM   #83
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You have seen my CF driveshaft in person. What do you want to know about it other than the following and what we have talked about?

Neapco = U-Joints
Sonnax = Billet Aluminum U-Joint ends
ACPT = Carbon tube (high modulas diamond weave)
3M = Bonding adhesive

The weak point on the CF driveshaft during testing was the U-Joints but unless you are making more than 3,100 ft/lb. torque I'd hardly consider it a weak point in your application.
If your car is operable I would like a test ride up on the 303 or 17 where I can really listen for vibes, tho that's kinda tough I remember you having a gutsy set of pipes.
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Old 03-18-2014, 11:37 AM   #84
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We have the Carbon one on our race car with lightweight flywheel, lightweight pulleys and 4.67 final gear. The car revs insanely quick.
Would you put up with that same drivetrain in an everyday car?
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