Removing and Replacing BRZ/FR-S Intake, Air Filter and Noise Generator Delete

[wallace03]

Noob question. Im trying to remove the sound tube, but there is one little piece i'm not sure how to get around. I can't tell but it may be zipped tied down. Did everyone just cut theirs? I'm reluctant too in case i ever sell the car. Is there a way around this? found some pics online to show you guys what i am talking about.

[355rockit]

Originally Posted by wallace03

Noob question. Im trying to remove the sound tube, but there is one little piece i'm not sure how to get around. I can't tell but it may be zipped tied down. Did everyone just cut theirs? I'm reluctant too in case i ever sell the car. Is there a way around this? found some pics online to show you guys what i am talking about.

The zip tie has an end clip that snaps into the metal piece. If you compress the end, it will pop out of the metal piece. There are two areas where there are zip ties that can be popped out of the clip. No cutting involved.

[wallace03]

Originally Posted by 355rockit

The zip tie has an end clip that snaps into the metal piece. If you compress the end, it will pop out of the metal piece. There are two areas where there are zip ties that can be popped out of the clip. No cutting involved.

Thanks, ill get back in there tomorrow and fiddle around with it and see if i can get it off.

[wallace03]

Originally Posted by 355rockit

The zip tie has an end clip that snaps into the metal piece. If you compress the end, it will pop out of the metal piece. There are two areas where there are zip ties that can be popped out of the clip. No cutting involved.

Ok, im confused again. I tried fiddling with it again today and can't seem to get the piece loose. When you say end clips do you mean the hose claps? like the ones i've circled? I'm trying to remove the whole 90 degree coupler.

[frs10]

Originally Posted by wallace03

Ok, im confused again. I tried fiddling with it again today and can't seem to get the piece loose. When you say end clips do you mean the hose claps? like the ones i've circled? I'm trying to remove the whole 90 degree coupler.

depends on what you want to do. you have two options.


a) remove to firewall

b) remove up until the 90* bend

its tricky if you have never done it before, let me know and i can walk you through either way.

[wallace03]

Originally Posted by frs10

depends on what you want to do. you have two options.


a) remove to firewall

b) remove up until the 90* bend

its tricky if you have never done it before, let me know and i can walk you through either way.

I'm trying to remove the whole thing all the way to the firewall, including removing the 90* plastic piece (part that im having trouble removing). Thanks.

[frs10]

Originally Posted by wallace03

I'm trying to remove the whole thing all the way to the firewall, including removing the 90* plastic piece (part that im having trouble removing). Thanks.

The plastic part has a clip under the steel part. You have to squeeze the ends and pull it out. There was a similar clip that you removed under the strut arm that works the same way.

[subwaynm]

Originally Posted by Keith@AIRAID

Alternatively, you could remove the rest of the hose and use a 1" hole plug at the firewall.

Or once this tube is removed you could use a Rubber Expansion Plug if it's not too thick; and it would be a cheap fix also.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...el_pumps_tanks

[wallace03]

Originally Posted by frs10

The plastic part has a clip under the steel part. You have to squeeze the ends and pull it out. There was a similar clip that you removed under the strut arm that works the same way.

I didn't realize it was under the steel part, thanks!

[2013whiteoutFRS]

Originally Posted by JimmyMac

I recently did this delete. Went to Lowes and spent a few bucks. One is a 1.25 inch PVC cap. Use this to delete the sound tube from the main intake. The next is a 3/4" plastic cap. I found this a few aisles down from the PVC aisle with some brass fittings and what not. I just shoved this in from the engine bay through foot-well hole. It may seem a little big, but it fits right in. All together it's cheap, less than $4 and works. Sorry for the over exposed white cap.

Thanks for the info man, I just did mine today and it's definitely quieter and the engine bay is now a little less cluttered. Only cost me $3 and some change versus the $30 kit online!

[SirBrass]

Originally Posted by GrimmSpeed

This issue gets confused all of the time. Decibels are on a logarithmic scale, so an increase of 10dB is equivalent to a 10 fold increase in power. A 3dB increase is equivalent to a 2 fold increase in power.

Unfortunately, that is where most of the confusion comes in. "Power" only refers to acoustical output. As far as perceived loudness goes: a 10dB increase would sound like it was twice as loud.

Typically speaking, a difference of 3dB is about the minimum value that a typical person will hear any noticeable difference in sound output. Some trained ears can hear a difference of 1-2dB, but the average person will not notice it.

We noticed a difference in cabin sound, an amount we referred to as "significant." We then used a dB meter to quantify those results. This is one of those things that will just come down to preference between people that like the intake noise in the cabin, and those who do not.

Chase

Also, dB is not an absolute measurement unit. It is in relation to its reference unit. Not to mention that human perception of loudness doesn't relate very well to actual spl measurement. So, even if actual output is doubled or halved (2db increase or decrease respectively), the human ear may not equate the change to "twice as loud" or "half as loud."

The human ear is good for directionality (for certain frequency ranges) and for auditory analysis, but not for auditory input measurement. Our eyes are better suited to visual measurement than our ears are to auditory measurement.

[GA_Dave]

Originally Posted by SirBrass

Also, dB is not an absolute measurement unit. It is in relation to its reference unit. Not to mention that human perception of loudness doesn't relate very well to actual spl measurement. So, even if actual output is doubled or halved (2db increase or decrease respectively), the human ear may not equate the change to "twice as loud" or "half as loud."

The human ear is good for directionality (for certain frequency ranges) and for auditory analysis, but not for auditory input measurement. Our eyes are better suited to visual measurement than our ears are to auditory measurement.

You are correct in that the human ear is not a good sensor for measuring volume increase or decrease, however, your numbers are a bit off. Psychoanalysts tend to agree that a change of +10 or -10 dB is perceived by the average person as approximately twice as loud. Since dB are measured on a logarithmic scale, +2 or -2 dB would be an change in PERCEIVED sound level of only about 14%

[Augora]

Thanks to the OP for the guide, made pulling my air filter extremely easy

[deltaWhiskey]

Any word on the effects on performance since it is behind the MAF sensor?