Removing and Replacing BRZ/FR-S Intake, Air Filter and Noise Generator Delete
 

GrimmSpeed DIY Guide Series
Removing and Replacing BRZ/FR-S Intake, Air Filter
and Noise Generator Delete
Updated 6/6/12

Click this link to download the printable .PDF version of this tutorial

Introduction: This guide will illustrate the basics of the BRZ/FR-S intake system as well as demonstrate removal and easy replacement of air filters. Also included is how to delete the noise generator tube. The difficulty here is relatively low, so take your time and enjoy the job! We know this is something that most of you won't need a guide for, but we figured that as long as we're digging in, we might as well document it and hopefully help some folks out!

Tools: The tools listed below are suggested for this task (figure 1). Optional tools are noted.
- Pliers
- 10mm socket (extension optional)
- Flat head screwdriver

ADDED BY MODERATOR - GOOD TOPIC FOR NOISE GENERATOR DELETE PLUG:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13696

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...iy/Figure1.jpg

Tips: Using a 10mm socket instead of a screwdriver on hose clamps can make it much easier to place the hose clamp where you want it for tightening.

Procedure:

1. Begin by collecting your tools and popping your hood. This’ll be quick!

2. (Skip to step 4 for air filter replacement, step 7 for noise generator delete) Start by disconnecting the electrical connector for the MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) and moving it aside.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...iy/Figure2.jpg
 
3. Remove the wiring harness clip. Use a screwdriver to depress the tabs on both sides of this clip and pull to remove. Move the MAF connector and wiring aside.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...iy/Figure3.jpg
 
4. Use your 10mm socket to loosen the hose clamp connecting the air box to the intake tube and release the two sprung metal clips holding the two halves of the airbox together.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...iy/Figure4.jpg
 
5. Now that the upper airbox is free, you can either pull it aside for filter replacement or remove it for intake removal. If you’re just replacing the air filter, you can simply swap it and re-assemble the intake in the reverse order.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...iy/Figure5.jpg

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...iy/Figure6.jpg
 
6. Next, we can remove the lower airbox. Simply remove the three (3) 10mm bolts holding it in. The box and resonator should pull right out, set them aside.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...iy/Figure7.jpg

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...iy/Figure8.jpg
 
7. The only remaining pieces of the intake system are the intake tube and the noise generator. Loosen the hose clamps on the noise generator tube as well as the intake tube and recirculation tube.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...iy/Figure9.jpg
 
8. You’re ready to remove the intake tube. Re-installation is just the reverse of the removal.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...y/Figure10.jpg
 
9. To remove the noise generator, begin by removing the two (2) 10mm bolts holding it down.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...y/Figure11.jpg
 
10. Remove the hose routing back to the cabin. Follow the smaller hose from the noise generator to the frame rail below the strut tower. Disconnect the hose from the 90 degree coupler and cap or otherwise cover the open end.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...y/Figure12.jpg
 
11. The last remaining step in proper removal of the noise generator is to plug the hole that’s left in the intake tube. You can either wait for the release of the GrimmSpeed Noise Generator Delete plug, or visit your local hardware store for a less elegant, but equally functional solution.

http://www.grimmspeed.com/content/im...y/Figure13.jpg

Closing: Remember to plug your MAF sensor back in! As always comments, questions and suggestions are welcomed!

- Matt

How is the engine db before and after the removal?

We'll be on the dyno all afternoon and I've got the dB meter with me, so I'll try and post an in-cabin comparison tomorrow!

- Matt

May I suggest selling a kit of two plugs: one for the intake tube and another one for the firewall?

:thumbsup:

- Matt

Why is it necessary to plug the other end of the sound generator tube (The part by the firewall)? Where does it go? Just a one way into some membrane in the dash right?

Yep, should be. Also, the sound generator part doesn't seem to actually pass any air, so there's probably no issue at all. On general principle, I just don't like the idea of random garbage collecting in there over time, that's all.

- Matt

Looking forward to hearing the dB difference with and without the sound tube. If it's significant I may be interested in a set of plugs for a delete option.

Yeah, I agree... having open ended pipes in an engine bay is not the best.. you never know what little animal might like to find a home.

Have you traced that pipe through the firewall to see where it ends up.. If i'm going to yank the sound generator.. might as well remove the whole system.

Great guide! just wish there was a quality intake i could bolt in there :P

You'll have options soon enough. :)

- Matt

Did it and plugged it with a cap to a liquid jug. Didnt notice a difference in sound or volume. Put it back on till a full cold air comes out. I HATE the location of the MAF sensor on this car? Why not do the proper thing and mount it to the throttle body?

Interesting. We did it and measured the dB before and after and found that there was a consistent 3-4dB decrease with the noise generator removed and windows up. That's definitely not an insignificant amount. As far as MAF placement, I suspect that there might be too much turbulence up near the TB for an accurate reading.

- Matt

All hondas have them there, thats where I come from anyways. I would expect the air to be way more turbulent after fighting to get through the filter. But hey, im not an aero engineer so what I say doesnt matter.