Oil filter part number change, both #s deconstructed. - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

Calum · 07-21-2012, 10:00 PM

Like many I went to change my oil after a breakin period of about 1600 km, or 1000 miles. I logged on here and went looking for the filter part number and was surprised to see that the number had already changed. From what was posted it the new filter was taller but narrower then the old part number.

This got me thinking, (I know, I made sure to disconnect the smoke detectors.) about why FHI would change it. From my experience in the automotive world, normally things are changed for two reasons, cost or safety. And the latter only happens when someone finds out.

So, I picked up a new filter and kept my old filter so I could compare the differences. I used a chisel to separate the filters to avoid generating debris. What I found didn't really shock me much to be honest.

The filters look like most, no big surprises. The anti drain back gaskets feel identical except the outside diameter of course and did an excellent job of holding the old oil in when the filter was removed.

The bypass spring tensions felt identical as well. And both seem to have identical travel, though I couldn't get a pic of either with only two hands. One thing I don't like is that the oil will wash over the filter media before it reaches the bypass. So any debris caught has a much higher chance of getting put back into the system if/when the bypass opens. The other thing I don't like is how small the opening to the bypass is and even worse the outlet from it. The hole in the middle of the pic immediately above is what the oil has to flow through once the bypass opens.

When I bought the new filter I found out the torque sequences have changed. I'd attribute that to the differences in the seals. The new seal is thicker and more pliable. The old one seems very firm though I highly doubt there would be any chance of it leaking aside from being installed incorrectly. Personally I prefer the old seal, but the new seal would be more idiot proof.

Then we get to the filter media itself. The new filter has seven less pleats (63 vs 56) and the pleats are much shallower. (If you know how to read a vernier scale, go for it but I'm not explaining it over the internet. I mainly did this for illustration purposes) I must say, I'm not enthralled with the change. The filter media seems to be the same, but there's a lot less of it. This tells me they did this to save cost.

I'm going to investigate getting my hands on some of the old part number filters because this change is only going to shorten the life of the filter before media gets clogged and it starts to bypass.

One thing that did impress me was the complete lack of visible debris in the used filter.

getbent · 07-21-2012, 10:42 PM

Thanks for the detailed writeup. I'd like to see how the new Wix 57830 compares.

Draco-REX · 07-21-2012, 11:03 PM

Very interesting. I'll be replacing my filters every oil change, so I'm not worried about capacity. Also, a filter magnet will help reduce debris making it though the bypass.

roddy · 07-22-2012, 12:58 AM

Thanks for that. I should pick up a case of the 130s when I'm near the Subi dealer on Monday.

rice_classic · 07-22-2012, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Draco-REX

Very interesting. I'll be replacing my filters every oil change.

Considering the ease of changing the filter I will be changing the filter between oil changes. I don't plan on changing my oil every 3k, closer to 5-6k so I'll change my filter every 3k.

Calum · 07-22-2012, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rice_classic

Considering the ease of changing the filter I will be changing the filter between oil changes. I don't plan on changing my oil every 3k, closer to 5-6k so I'll change my filter every 3k.

I'm thinking the same thing.

Tainen · 07-24-2012, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rice_classic

Considering the ease of changing the filter I will be changing the filter between oil changes. I don't plan on changing my oil every 3k, closer to 5-6k so I'll change my filter every 3k.

Sure is a lot easier to do that with it up on top.

not a bad idea.

Maybe I'll buy a 6 pack of filters off of one of the OEM parts websites.

the old ones, of course.

reeves · 07-25-2012, 12:48 AM

This is great info to know! How would these OEM filters compare to aftermarket oil filters like Mobil1 or Purlator? Mobil1 seems to make quality filters.. is it even worth it to buy OEM filters now?

ayau · 07-25-2012, 01:04 AM

i had my oil changed at a subaru dealership 2 weeks ago and they used the old style filter.

this may sound like a dumb question, but did you pick up the correct filter? did the dealer say that was the proper filter for the brz/frs?

Calidrifter · 07-25-2012, 04:21 AM

It would be helpful to know where you got the filter. Seeing as at Toyota it's an extra 4-5 dollars that may have been a reason for Toyota to change part numbers.

Calum · 07-25-2012, 02:49 PM

One came on the car, the other I bought at a local sub's dealership.

Toyota didn't change the part number, Subaru did. It's a Subaru part. I'm not sure why Toyota wants s much for the filter, here it's 2.5 times more at Toyota then Subaru but its th exact same filter.

rice_classic · 07-27-2012, 01:18 PM

Just for kicks and giggles... I used Purolator's website to cross reference vehicle applications and the Purolator Oil Filter for the 86 is the same as the one for the S2000. PL14459. However, when doing a little research over at NASIOC, apparently a Purolator rep said that the PL14460 should be used instead as it has a better drainback properties and bypass valve psi rating.

Ironically, I run the PCX-004 (JDM part#) s2000 oil filter on my CRX road race car and I think I might just use that on my FRS since I buy them in bulk and it's known to be a very very good filter.

Calum · 07-27-2012, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ayau

i had my oil changed at a subaru dealership 2 weeks ago and they used the old style filter.

this may sound like a dumb question, but did you pick up the correct filter? did the dealer say that was the proper filter for the brz/frs?

Yes, it was the correct filter as specified in the TSB for the oil filter part number change.

Calum · 07-27-2012, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reeves

This is great info to know! How would these OEM filters compare to aftermarket oil filters like Mobil1 or Purlator? Mobil1 seems to make quality filters.. is it even worth it to buy OEM filters now?

I don't this is the first automotive filter I've taken apart.

07-21-2012, 10:00 PM	#1
Calum That Guy Join Date: Dec 2011 Drives: 2013 asphalt FRS MT Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia Posts: 4,865 Thanks: 5,058 Thanked 2,867 Times in 1,499 Posts Mentioned: 82 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	Oil filter part number change, both #s deconstructed. Like many I went to change my oil after a breakin period of about 1600 km, or 1000 miles. I logged on here and went looking for the filter part number and was surprised to see that the number had already changed. From what was posted it the new filter was taller but narrower then the old part number. This got me thinking, (I know, I made sure to disconnect the smoke detectors.) about why FHI would change it. From my experience in the automotive world, normally things are changed for two reasons, cost or safety. And the latter only happens when someone finds out. So, I picked up a new filter and kept my old filter so I could compare the differences. I used a chisel to separate the filters to avoid generating debris. What I found didn't really shock me much to be honest. The filters look like most, no big surprises. The anti drain back gaskets feel identical except the outside diameter of course and did an excellent job of holding the old oil in when the filter was removed. The bypass spring tensions felt identical as well. And both seem to have identical travel, though I couldn't get a pic of either with only two hands. One thing I don't like is that the oil will wash over the filter media before it reaches the bypass. So any debris caught has a much higher chance of getting put back into the system if/when the bypass opens. The other thing I don't like is how small the opening to the bypass is and even worse the outlet from it. The hole in the middle of the pic immediately above is what the oil has to flow through once the bypass opens. When I bought the new filter I found out the torque sequences have changed. I'd attribute that to the differences in the seals. The new seal is thicker and more pliable. The old one seems very firm though I highly doubt there would be any chance of it leaking aside from being installed incorrectly. Personally I prefer the old seal, but the new seal would be more idiot proof. Then we get to the filter media itself. The new filter has seven less pleats (63 vs 56) and the pleats are much shallower. (If you know how to read a vernier scale, go for it but I'm not explaining it over the internet. I mainly did this for illustration purposes) I must say, I'm not enthralled with the change. The filter media seems to be the same, but there's a lot less of it. This tells me they did this to save cost. I'm going to investigate getting my hands on some of the old part number filters because this change is only going to shorten the life of the filter before media gets clogged and it starts to bypass. One thing that did impress me was the complete lack of visible debris in the used filter.

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07-21-2012, 10:42 PM	#2
getbent Senior Member Join Date: May 2012 Drives: 2013 FR-S Blue MT Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 162 Thanks: 4 Thanked 37 Times in 26 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Thanks for the detailed writeup. I'd like to see how the new Wix 57830 compares.

07-21-2012, 11:03 PM	#3
Draco-REX Corner Junkie Join Date: Feb 2012 Drives: 13 BRZ, 11 STI, 99 RS Location: Ohio Posts: 2,908 Thanks: 129 Thanked 1,520 Times in 702 Posts Mentioned: 11 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Very interesting. I'll be replacing my filters every oil change, so I'm not worried about capacity. Also, a filter magnet will help reduce debris making it though the bypass.

07-22-2012, 12:58 AM	#4
roddy Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Drives: '13 Ultramarine Location: Ontario Canada Posts: 2,243 Thanks: 1,476 Thanked 1,165 Times in 685 Posts Mentioned: 15 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Thanks for that. I should pick up a case of the 130s when I'm near the Subi dealer on Monday.

07-25-2012, 12:48 AM	#8
reeves Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Drives: BRZ Location: ATL, GA Posts: 1,021 Thanks: 289 Thanked 397 Times in 265 Posts Mentioned: 13 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	This is great info to know! How would these OEM filters compare to aftermarket oil filters like Mobil1 or Purlator? Mobil1 seems to make quality filters.. is it even worth it to buy OEM filters now?

07-25-2012, 01:04 AM	#9
ayau Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Drives: Some rust bucket Location: Polar ice cap Posts: 3,058 Thanks: 312 Thanked 1,045 Times in 556 Posts Mentioned: 37 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	i had my oil changed at a subaru dealership 2 weeks ago and they used the old style filter. this may sound like a dumb question, but did you pick up the correct filter? did the dealer say that was the proper filter for the brz/frs?

07-25-2012, 02:49 PM	#11
Calum That Guy Join Date: Dec 2011 Drives: 2013 asphalt FRS MT Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia Posts: 4,865 Thanks: 5,058 Thanked 2,867 Times in 1,499 Posts Mentioned: 82 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	One came on the car, the other I bought at a local sub's dealership. Toyota didn't change the part number, Subaru did. It's a Subaru part. I'm not sure why Toyota wants s much for the filter, here it's 2.5 times more at Toyota then Subaru but its th exact same filter.

07-27-2012, 01:18 PM	#12
rice_classic Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Drives: Nevermorange FRS Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 4,160 Thanks: 755 Thanked 4,200 Times in 1,803 Posts Mentioned: 77 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	Just for kicks and giggles... I used Purolator's website to cross reference vehicle applications and the Purolator Oil Filter for the 86 is the same as the one for the S2000. PL14459. However, when doing a little research over at NASIOC, apparently a Purolator rep said that the PL14460 should be used instead as it has a better drainback properties and bypass valve psi rating. Ironically, I run the PCX-004 (JDM part#) s2000 oil filter on my CRX road race car and I think I might just use that on my FRS since I buy them in bulk and it's known to be a very very good filter.

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