follow ft86club on our blog, twitter or facebook.
FT86CLUB
Ft86Club
Speed By Design
Register Garage Community Calendar Today's Posts Search

Go Back   Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB > Technical Topics > Engine, Exhaust, Transmission

Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.

Register and become an FT86Club.com member. You will see fewer ads

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-06-2016, 05:17 PM   #1
puma
crew chief
 
puma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Drives: Race car FR-S
Location: Quebec
Posts: 378
Thanks: 6
Thanked 189 Times in 82 Posts
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
For the engine rebuild gurus

OK guys, trying to lift the heads on the FA20 because we are pretty sure we have a blown head gasket. This is my first subaru engine and not much experience engine wise so i am following the shop manual.

I am kind of confused to this portion, i am ready to remove the camshafts but i am not sure this part actually works. So far timing chains are off and from where they let me put the crankshaft and the camshaft, the intake valves on the LH side are open.

Now to remove the camshaft they want me to first turn the cranshaft 200 deg, which in my opinion will make the piston contact the intake valves???

here is the portion i am talking about



After this step, the next step is to turn the camshaft 180deg which i suppose will close the intake valves. Shouldn't i do that before i actually turn the crankshaft? Why in hell are they making me turn the crankshaft before i remove the camshaft?

thanks for any help
puma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2016, 05:30 PM   #2
puma
crew chief
 
puma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Drives: Race car FR-S
Location: Quebec
Posts: 378
Thanks: 6
Thanked 189 Times in 82 Posts
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Oh and an other question, do i actually have to remove the camshafts gears to remove the camshafts sub assembly or can i leave them installed?
puma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2016, 09:16 PM   #3
spitfire481
Senior Member
 
spitfire481's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: 2JZ FRS
Location: Pure Automotive Performance
Posts: 1,378
Thanks: 97
Thanked 1,354 Times in 621 Posts
Mentioned: 27 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
You can leave the sprockets attached to the cams. I always just rotate each one a little until there's no tension then remove the caps. Never had an issue. You will know if you have valve contact. Slight movements with no real force
__________________
Pure Automotive Performance
MoTeC
Build Thread
@spitfire481
spitfire481 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2016, 09:22 PM   #4
puma
crew chief
 
puma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Drives: Race car FR-S
Location: Quebec
Posts: 378
Thanks: 6
Thanked 189 Times in 82 Posts
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
ok makes sense, do you have any idea why they say to do such a thing, i mean rotating the cranshaft before putting the intake valves free of tension?
puma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2016, 09:41 PM   #5
spitfire481
Senior Member
 
spitfire481's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: 2JZ FRS
Location: Pure Automotive Performance
Posts: 1,378
Thanks: 97
Thanked 1,354 Times in 621 Posts
Mentioned: 27 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by puma View Post
ok makes sense, do you have any idea why they say to do such a thing, i mean rotating the cranshaft before putting the intake valves free of tension?
No idea. Some of their instructions are confusing and not really needed anyway. Just make sure the head is straight up when you pull the cams out. If not you will loose the rockers and valve shims. Make sure you store them so they go back in the same spot, unless you are replacing valves and or cams
__________________
Pure Automotive Performance
MoTeC
Build Thread
@spitfire481
spitfire481 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2016, 09:50 PM   #6
puma
crew chief
 
puma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Drives: Race car FR-S
Location: Quebec
Posts: 378
Thanks: 6
Thanked 189 Times in 82 Posts
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
wow thanks i was going to remove them like that, i will rotate the engine, thanks for the warning!
puma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2016, 09:59 PM   #7
spitfire481
Senior Member
 
spitfire481's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: 2JZ FRS
Location: Pure Automotive Performance
Posts: 1,378
Thanks: 97
Thanked 1,354 Times in 621 Posts
Mentioned: 27 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by puma View Post
wow thanks i was going to remove them like that, i will rotate the engine, thanks for the warning!
Once the cams come out they will all fall out with ease. Just pay close attention when you lift the cam up. Other than that it's all pretty straight forward. If you're not changing the cams or valves you can reuse the oem shims in there current locations. I'd still double check the clearances during assembly to make sure the factory was right but it should be fine
__________________
Pure Automotive Performance
MoTeC
Build Thread
@spitfire481
spitfire481 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2016, 07:41 AM   #8
puma
crew chief
 
puma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Drives: Race car FR-S
Location: Quebec
Posts: 378
Thanks: 6
Thanked 189 Times in 82 Posts
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
thanks, i appreciate it, i will let you know how it went.
puma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2016, 12:13 AM   #9
SoCal80six
Senior Member
 
SoCal80six's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Drives: Asphalt frs
Location: San diego, CA
Posts: 354
Thanks: 226
Thanked 80 Times in 62 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Do they have any disassembly/assembly books for the fa20 or is it only online

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
SoCal80six is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2016, 07:33 AM   #10
puma
crew chief
 
puma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Drives: Race car FR-S
Location: Quebec
Posts: 378
Thanks: 6
Thanked 189 Times in 82 Posts
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
i don't know i found mine online, they must have one at the dealer but must cost a fortune and it is he same thing as the online version.
puma is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to puma For This Useful Post:
SoCal80six (09-08-2016)
 
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Help Wanted: Wheel Gurus Jyn Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack 15 06-18-2014 10:29 PM
Vortech gurus...need your advice misooscar Forced Induction 21 06-04-2014 11:01 AM
Coilver/Suspension Gurus Help!!! eddieEndo Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing 23 12-18-2013 07:57 AM
lighting gurus help needed please FR-Shadow Cosmetic Modification (Interior/Exterior/Lighting) 4 01-20-2013 12:40 AM
Need help from the wheel fitment gurus nab335 Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack 22 10-11-2012 02:39 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:29 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2026 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.