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Old 05-22-2013, 12:25 PM   #29
King Tut
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Nice work on the part numbers and PDF Opie. Don't He-Man your new oil filter on next time OP. General rule is turn till seated and then a 1/4 turn. You should be able to get the filter back off without the use of a tool if torqued properly.
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:27 PM   #30
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Just threads right in, tighten to 33.2 ft/lbs. See attached.
great post!
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:06 PM   #31
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@davtbaum Did you get the thread replaced? Try not to use FRAM filter... look up some videos in Youtube. I'm sure they have improved over time, but their general oil filter sucks.
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:19 PM   #32
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Nice work on the part numbers and PDF Opie. Don't He-Man your new oil filter on next time OP. General rule is turn till seated and then a 1/4 turn. You should be able to get the filter back off without the use of a tool if torqued properly.
Unless it's the factory filter. I swear that every new car I've ever had, first time oil change always sucks getting the original filter off.
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:51 PM   #33
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How did the seal surface get scratched?
The only thing that contacts that surface is the rubber seal of the oil filter....

It just screams overtorqued oil filter, but you said you tightened by hand. Meaning only using your hand, and not any tools right? I knew someone who thought tighten by hand meant using an oil filter socket and a breaker bar, because they are "hand tools"
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Old 05-22-2013, 04:14 PM   #34
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How did the seal surface get scratched?
The only thing that contacts that surface is the rubber seal of the oil filter....

It just screams overtorqued oil filter, but you said you tightened by hand. Meaning only using your hand, and not any tools right? I knew someone who thought tighten by hand meant using an oil filter socket and a breaker bar, because they are "hand tools"
Definitely tightened by hand!

What I found interesting is the location of the stripping. I ended up getting the bolt out using a 24mm deep socket. After pulling it out I could see that the first two thread rotations are in tact. The following 2.5 and stripped, and the last threads are in tact as well.

Here's a pic

Now this follows the resistance when screwing the filter back on - the first two rotations are easy, the following 2 are really tough, then easy again.

Now if this is over torquing would l that not imply the stripping of the initial threading on the bolt? I'm not sure, but I know I hand tightened the filter when putting it on.
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Old 05-22-2013, 05:46 PM   #35
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Looks like galling to me (materials mismatch). That's a really weird failure. I'm guessing some sort of thread defect on one of the two parts involved, but it's hard to say which is the chicken and which is the egg. At least it was a cheap part!
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Old 05-22-2013, 05:59 PM   #36
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More than likely bad threads on the filter, perhaps there were slivers of metal that broke free when you tightened it and ended up fubaring the threads... but I've never seen/heard of that

I've seen some weird crap though, my overpipe to header bolts BOTH galled the thread on removal, and ended freezing/snapping the bolts off because they refused to loosen any more than 2mm or so even though they looked brand new.

Still doesn't explain the surface scratching, did the oil filter go on slightly lopsided so the edge of the oil filter was able to hit the mounting surface before the gasket? That would support the bad thread theory
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:33 PM   #37
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In 8 years of working on cars professionally, I have never seen that happen, wow. I've seen enough stripped drain plugs to fill a gallon paint can, a few stripped drain pans, and even oil filters that leaked through the casing. But have never seen a filter union/stud stripped.

Maybe it wasn't properly heat treated, who knows; but that aint right.
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:15 PM   #38
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Looks like galling to me (materials mismatch). That's a really weird failure. I'm guessing some sort of thread defect on one of the two parts involved, but it's hard to say which is the chicken and which is the egg. At least it was a cheap part!
I'm going to say it was probably during removal if it went on with no problem. I've seen a thread failure very similar to that, but the threaded piece itself had a small cut-out area for staking of the nut. If you didn't unstake the nut perfectly, any small piece of debris or no longer exactly lining up thread would destroy the piece in a similar fashion. Very frustrating to try and remove a nut, and every now and then you ruin the much more expensive part it's attached to.
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:24 PM   #39
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Hey guys, an update

Got the part in today. Overnights from Subaruparts - thanks @Opie for the diagram and part number!



A comparison with the old bolt



Getting the new union on was trivial, torquing to 33.2 ft lbs. Installing the filter afterwards was as simple as a normal oil change

Got my car running again - thanks guys!

Last edited by davtbaum; 05-23-2013 at 06:27 PM. Reason: Pics
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:55 PM   #40
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An they lived happily ever after
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Old 05-29-2013, 02:14 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davtbaum View Post
Hey guys, an update

Got the part in today. Overnights from Subaruparts - thanks @Opie for the diagram and part number!



A comparison with the old bolt



Getting the new union on was trivial, torquing to 33.2 ft lbs. Installing the filter afterwards was as simple as a normal oil change

Got my car running again - thanks guys!
Looked like you can just flip the stripped union around and put it back in #ShittyAdvice

It definitely looked like a manufacturing defect on the union and the low quality Fram thread put the nail on the coffin.
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Old 05-30-2013, 02:34 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davtbaum View Post
Hey guys, an update

Got the part in today. Overnights from Subaruparts - thanks @Opie for the diagram and part number!

Getting the new union on was trivial, torquing to 33.2 ft lbs. Installing the filter afterwards was as simple as a normal oil change

Got my car running again - thanks guys!
Nice E30 bro. Could definitely be treated to a new roundel though.
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