New STi Chassis Mounts

[mrk1]

^^ really its pretty straight forward. My take on it. Dont hurt yourself, use safety as always. Just a guideline. Took me maybe an hour on the floor at a comfortable pace.

-Remove factory strut bar things over the engine, dont know if you have to but I did.

-Safely raise and support the cars front end.

-Remove both the aluminum and soft under panels.

-Unbolt 2 14mm nuts holding old mounts to subframe.

-Place wood on jack, lift on oil pan just enough to take the weight.

-Undo the bolts at the front of each mount, you can see them easily near the exhaust ports. Use a long extension and 14mm socket.

-Around back use a 14mm wrench to unbolt the rear mount bolts. Passenger side is just to the inside of the over pipe. Driver side is just inside of the steering shaft.

-With bolts removed lift up the engine only high enough to pull the mounts out. (I put a block of wood between the motor and subframe to keep it from falling, highly suggest this.)

-Passenger comes out over the rear of the sub frame. (This is with an aftermarket over pipe and catless front pipe.)

-Driver has to twist and come out over the front of the sub frame.

-Keep track of which mount goes on which side, compare to the STi mounts.

-STI mounts go in just like the old ones came out.

-Before lowering the motor down bolt on the new STI mounts to the engine. The STI mounts come with new bolts for the rear. Reuse the original bolts on the front. Take care not to cross thread these, they thread into aluminum.

-Now slowly lower the engine back down keeping an eye to make sure the new mounts drop into the mounting holes in the subframe.

-With the engines weight on the subframe reinstall the nuts on the new mounts.

-Reinstall under panels.

-Done

[mrk1]

Factory compared to STI, the original part is so soft its unreal.

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by mrk1

-Remove both the aluminum and soft under panels.

It's like 30 bolts between those 2 panels. I HATE it. Overall, very concise and to the point install guide, thanks.

[mrk1]

^^ yup, wicked annoying.

[Hanakuso]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

Buy me the mounts and I'll take pictures for you :-P

Like I said, it's not spacious. You can probably do it without flex sockets, but you'll probably want them. Might pick up a flex 14mm 3/8" drive. I know on the EJ I had to turn a wrench by putting it through the box end of another wrench.

mrk1 guide seems pretty straight forward. I'll probably go ahead and do this when the time comes. I already have the transmission bushing so this should complete it.

[mrk1]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

Buy me the mounts and I'll take pictures for you :-P

Like I said, it's not spacious. You can probably do it without flex sockets, but you'll probably want them. Might pick up a flex 14mm 3/8" drive. I know on the EJ I had to turn a wrench by putting it through the box end of another wrench.

Other then the under pans bolts I used.

-3/8 Ratchet
-6 inch extension
-14mm deep socket, regular old style, doesn't even need to be deep
-14mm box end wrench

These cars are new, for the most part once you break the bolt loose it comes off by hand the rest of the way.

[DriftEightSix]

Any pics of sti next to stock?

[illmatic]

How is the NVH? I have the group N bushings in my WRX and thought it was a pretty easy and straight forward install.

[brillo]

These look to be rubber and not urethane which prolly keeps the nvh down.

[mrk1]

Originally Posted by illmatic

How is the NVH? I have the group N bushings in my WRX and thought it was a pretty easy and straight forward install.

these are very similar to the group n mounts in my opinion, I also had group n mounts in my sti

Originally Posted by DriftEightSix

Any pics of sti next to stock?

the engine mounts are visually identical as far as i could tell, all looks like black rubber in a picture.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by mrk1

I don't consider myself to baller but I'm in to buy a set of engine/trans mounts. I had Cusco and Group N mounts in my sti and loved the Group N much more.

Nothing better then over night parts from Japan. (not really paying for overnight shipping) I can use these as an excuse to also pick up the gurney flap for my wing.

thats exactly it my friend,..when you start ordering stuff from Japan its like...." Oh well, might as well order this and this and this and this and..." Next thing you know you have built a JGTC IMPREZA !

BTW we started importing STI parts back in 2003 ! (its what got us started actually)

Good to see STI is making parts for this car.

Myles

[RAWR BRZ]

In for review. Always like oem stuff better.

[mrk1]

I really am not sure how to do a review on a part like this. Mine have been in for a few weeks and this is how the car should have come from the factory. I notice the improvement as I drove it before. My father drove the car for the first time and he commented that he felt very connected to the car. Neither him or my girl friend have complained of vibration or harshness. So they pass the girl friend test.

[Ingen]

Originally Posted by mrk1

First drive down the road I was shocked at the improvement. No more lurch in the driveline, it just goes. Really no NVH to speak of for now, I did notice the stupid low idle is a little more noticeable but its not a big deal at all.

Comparing to the Cusco and Group N mounts I had in my STI, these are very similar to the Group N mounts. Noticeably firmer with out being over kill like the Cusco's.

Overall I couldn't be happier, highly recommend.

Can you describe the lurch in the drive train you mentioned?

I just wanna know exactly what this eliminates. Thinking of doing headers anyway so this would be easy while I was doing that!