Choice of Coilovers?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Enraged21

So looking into it more I'm going to end up getting Eibach sportlines. But some people are saying I'll need a camber kit and/or some LCAs? What would be good to go with the Eibach sportlines?

I would think hard about your priorities before making any commitments.

What's the order of importance here:

Ride quality
Cost (What is your total budget for ALL suspension parts, including install)
Stance/drop
Performance
Tire wear/life

The more information you can provide me, the better I can guide you.

[Enraged21]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I would think hard about your priorities before making any commitments.

What's the order of importance here:

Ride quality
Cost (What is your total budget for ALL suspension parts, including install)
Stance/drop
Performance
Tire wear/life

The more information you can provide me, the better I can guide you.

Ride quality stock or a little firmer.

I guess I don't have an actual budget but don't want to spend too much. If I have to hold out for a more priced item, I'll hold out.

Want to drop it to get rid of the wheel gap / possibly get better handling

Performance wise, I really don't auto x or track. I just don't want to affect the suspension geometry by any means. It's great as it is. If I can make it better, I will.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Enraged21

Ride quality stock or a little firmer.

I guess I don't have an actual budget but don't want to spend too much. If I have to hold out for a more priced item, I'll hold out.

Want to drop it to get rid of the wheel gap / possibly get better handling

Performance wise, I really don't auto x or track. I just don't want to affect the suspension geometry by any means. It's great as it is. If I can make it better, I will.

Reconsider the statements in bold. They're mutually exclusive. You can *correct* changed geometry, but it will still not be the same.

[Enraged21]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Reconsider the statements in bold. They're mutually exclusive. You can *correct* changed geometry, but it will still not be the same.

If I drop it to remove wheel gap I understand it'll change the suspension geometry. I just don't want it to worsen than it was stock. I would rather make it improve if possible, while getting rid of that wheel gap.

For a daily driver, if I decide to go with the Eibach sportlines, are front crash bolts and rear LCAs necessary?

[zoomzoomers]

Just throwing this out there, but the stock suspension is pretty darn good on the twins. If you're just looking for a bit more low, just get some springs and you should be good. If your budget allows, get something reputable. I mean you just spent $25k + on a great handling car, do you want to throw that out the window because you want to save $500? If so, I'd think that staying with the stock suspension on lowering springs would be a better route.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Enraged21

If I drop it to remove wheel gap I understand it'll change the suspension geometry. I just don't want it to worsen than it was stock. I would rather make it improve if possible, while getting rid of that wheel gap.

For a daily driver, if I decide to go with the Eibach sportlines, are front crash bolts and rear LCAs necessary?

Correcting the geometry changes will cost you far more than the springs will. Unless you're serious about motorsport, I'd suggest you spend the extra money on a set of coilovers.

Lowering springs on stock shocks will worsen ride quality (damping quality) and simultaneously alter your suspension geometry for the worse. At least a cheap set of coilovers can improve ride quality AND overall handling. Geometry is gonna have to be sacrificed unless you're willing to spend a lot of $$

Neither LCA nor crash bolts are necessary. LCA can be usd to *remove* camber from the rear for tire wear, but the camber increase will give you more cornering grip. Which do you want?

[EnjukuAK]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

That could not be less true. A well damped (and properly set up) system will ride *better* than stock. You'll have a very refined ride where you know exactly what is going on with the road (whether it's bumpy, smooth, rough, etc.) but without jarring, intrusive feedback and enhanced cornering grip.

Most people attribute that as a more harsh ride because they can feel what is going on beneath them, and therefore it does not ride as 'smooth' or good, so in their minds it is a compromise in ride quality..

With that being said we had some very nice 3 way coilovers on some of our race cars as well as one of the sales guys Z33's, and they did ride incredibly good for full coilovers when dialed in properly.. But then again, the ability for your average consumer to properly adjust rebound/damping on a coilover like that to achieve those results would be a bit questionable I would think.

[OmarGC]

Have a set of OTS Stance CO's on the way... I'll try to have someone dyno them prior to me getting back to the states, however I can't promise it will get done before I arrive.

[dori.]

I have the Tein Monoflex. I don't feel qualified to 'review' them (since this is the only coilover I've used on the car) but they are very comfortable given the high-ish spring rates (8k F/9k R). The range of adjustability is quite large, so much that at full soft it felt like a crown vic with 15 year old suspension, and full hard felt like a go kart

[ShikoBariki]

Originally Posted by Enraged21

I'm so lost

you need to figure out if you want this car to be built for track/driving or purely stance. Thats when you will know how much you want to invest in it. For example you dont need a kwv3 if all your going for is stance although if you want some ride quality some 1k coilovers are not that bad unless you are real anal about how you want it to ride. This is when your going to determine how much you want to invest in the car. Same thing with bolts on for power you do your research and hear he say she say and go with what you feel like is good to you but in suspension you do the same just alot more. Suspension should never be taken lightly. Alot of things factor in what you are trying to achieve for your car. You will invest majority of your money for a first step build to get the suspension right as oppose to basic bolt ons. Save your money and figure out what you are trying to achieve for your car.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by dori.

I have the Tein Monoflex. I don't feel qualified to 'review' them (since this is the only coilover I've used on the car) but they are very comfortable given the high-ish spring rates (8k F/9k R). The range of adjustability is quite large, so much that at full soft it felt like a crown vic with 15 year old suspension, and full hard felt like a go kart

It's so difficult to explain to people that high spring rate =/= harsh ride. It's all in the dampers...

[SubieNate]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

It's so difficult to explain to people that high spring rate =/= harsh ride. It's all in the dampers...

Agreed, but big hits benefit from a lower spring rate and more travel.

[dori.]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

It's so difficult to explain to people that high spring rate =/= harsh ride. It's all in the dampers...

yeah well that is something I do know (especially now that I've played with the dampers), its just I see a lot of people complaining about some coils having 'high' spring rates and it doesn't really affect the ride much

[EarlQHan]

This is the most basic equation for creating a spring-mass-damper system



It's not easy to get right, BUT, as Mike said, high spring rate does not necessarily mean a harsh ride, but is a generality. If people want, they can plug in their numbers (if you know them) to see what your damper-spring combo is doing.

EDIT: It should say MASS, not WEIGHT in the key.