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Old 02-13-2013, 02:41 PM   #15
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Nobody mentioned tires!
The brake "feel" can be improved by pads, lines and fluid, as everyone has mentioned. I also recommend Ferodo DS2500s. Higher friction pads can help this by requiring less pedal pressure to achieve the same brake torque. But, the tires will still lock up with the same amount of braking torque as before, it just requires less foot pressure. Maximum braking power is still limited by the tires' grip; even the best world-class BBk's will be held back if the tires can't utilize them.
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Old 02-13-2013, 02:43 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Nobody mentioned tires!
The brake "feel" can be improved by pads, lines and fluid, as everyone has mentioned. I also recommend Ferodo DS2500s. Higher friction pads can help this by requiring less pedal pressure to achieve the same brake torque. But, the tires will still lock up with the same amount of braking torque as before, it just requires less foot pressure. Maximum braking power is still limited by the tires' grip; even the best world-class BBk's will be held back if the tires can't utilize them.
i was just going to ask if he wants to stop faster or feel better while stopping
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:41 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
Better use of that money here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28493

He doesn't need rotors; yet. This kit includes pads, lines, and good fluid...all the necessities without spending money on unneeded rotors.
I just thought that when you already have the thing apart you it is easy to swap the rotors.
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:47 PM   #18
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OEM rotors cost a pretty penny for a reason. Most people who track their cars with the stock brake package use cost effective blank rotors. Moving to an aftermarket slotted rotor won't really do anything unless the internal vane structure is significantly different. That would only occur on a more expensive rotor...which in the stock size is still a waste of money IN MY OPINION.
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:01 PM   #19
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i was just going to ask if he wants to stop faster or feel better while stopping
i just need to slow down faster. i dont know how to accuratly describe it but like i said before, the brake pedal feels very mushy when trying to decelerate on a highway offramp.

Im not planning to track the car or put it in any similar conditions. I just want to be able to drive safer. Ill probably go the pads rought. Fluid is in the maybe section because i shouldnt be putting the brakes under too much stress
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:41 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by mrlewistan View Post
i just need to slow down faster. i dont know how to accuratly describe it but like i said before, the brake pedal feels very mushy when trying to decelerate on a highway offramp.

Im not planning to track the car or put it in any similar conditions. I just want to be able to drive safer. Ill probably go the pads rought. Fluid is in the maybe section because i shouldnt be putting the brakes under too much stress

If you're already doing the brake pads is there a good enough reason to not change to a performance oriented brake fluid too?

You're gonna be flushing the fluid anyways
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:59 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrlewistan View Post
i just need to slow down faster. i dont know how to accuratly describe it but like i said before, the brake pedal feels very mushy when trying to decelerate on a highway offramp.

Im not planning to track the car or put it in any similar conditions. I just want to be able to drive safer. Ill probably go the pads rought. Fluid is in the maybe section because i shouldnt be putting the brakes under too much stress
If you are not track'ing the car, that stockers are great. For getting rid of some mushy feel, maybe the cylinder brace is better?
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:08 PM   #22
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The best bang for your buck will be swapping the TERRIBLE oem pads for some stoptech street performance pads.

They're great on the street, quiet, and CHEAP!

The downside is that they're dusty (all good pads are) and that they're not race pads, so you'll have fade on the track if you're an experienced driver.

Edit: For real though, if you're on a budget forget everything else, even the fluid (for the street) and just do the pads.
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:22 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
Better use of that money here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28493

He doesn't need rotors; yet. This kit includes pads, lines, and good fluid...all the necessities without spending money on unneeded rotors.
Dayum, I just did EBC Yellow Stuff, Goddridge lines, and Motul RBF600... For some reason I thought DS2500 were way more than then EBC's.... This would have saved me about 50 bucks or so off what i paid and for a better pad... though i have to say i am liking the EBC's so far.

Great price for great components... No reason to replace rotors yet.
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:21 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laika View Post
If you're already doing the brake pads is there a good enough reason to not change to a performance oriented brake fluid too?

You're gonna be flushing the fluid anyways
You don't NEED to flush fluid when doing pads, but you might as well. I have a Motive power bleeder so brake fluid flushes are EASY.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:36 PM   #25
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If the pedal just feels mushy, there are a few culprits. The stock system feels plenty firm forstreet driving, and not what I would consider mushy in that respect. There is room for improvement, but its not bad..

First should be a thorough inspection of the brake components and bearings, if the rotors aare moving due to the bearings allowing a wheel to flex a bit, it could be causing pad knock back. The pads get pushed back into the caliper a bit, then the pads need to be pushed farther than normal to contact the rotor again. This feels mushy since the pedal doesn't have that firm feeling you're expecting.

Second should be a proper bleed, if there is air in the lines it will compress under pressure and make the pedal feel mushy. This is a big one, brake bleeding is regular maintenance so its an easy one to tick off the list.

Third, throw parts at it until you feel the improvement you're looking for, pads will increase friction levels and could marginally help pedal firmness, SS lines will marginally help pedal firmness, MC brace will slightly more noticeably help pedal firmness.

If you're not activating ABS, then tires with more grip won't change what you're experiencing.
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:18 AM   #26
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How does ATE Super Blue Racing DOT 4 fluid stack up?

Boiling Point of 280C (536F)
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:21 AM   #27
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How does ATE Super Blue Racing DOT 4 fluid stack up?

Boiling Point of 280C (536F)
Track users prefer Motul RBF600 from what I hear, though it's more hygroscopic. You'd want to flush it more often and it's on the expensive side. ATE's plenty fine, I used it in my WRX and didn't boil it on the street.
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:35 PM   #28
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Swap in stoptechs. They're cheap, don't need heat, great for autox and street. Night and day difference versus stock. The change is very pronounced on sticky rubber.
They fade faster than track pads, true. But you really have to beat on them to experience this.
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