|
||||||
| Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#15 |
|
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: 2013 BRZ, 2020 KTM Super Duke 1290R
Location: Denver
Posts: 1,788
Thanks: 714
Thanked 1,141 Times in 624 Posts
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
|
Nobody mentioned tires!
The brake "feel" can be improved by pads, lines and fluid, as everyone has mentioned. I also recommend Ferodo DS2500s. Higher friction pads can help this by requiring less pedal pressure to achieve the same brake torque. But, the tires will still lock up with the same amount of braking torque as before, it just requires less foot pressure. Maximum braking power is still limited by the tires' grip; even the best world-class BBk's will be held back if the tires can't utilize them. |
|
|
|
| The Following User Says Thank You to wheelhaus For This Useful Post: | mad_sb (02-13-2013) |
|
|
#16 | |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Drives: miata, mazdaspeed protege, ls430
Location: socal
Posts: 4,416
Thanks: 599
Thanked 1,443 Times in 787 Posts
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#17 | |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: 2013 Whiteout Scion FRS
Location: Orlando FL
Posts: 1,275
Thanks: 101
Thanked 525 Times in 307 Posts
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#18 |
|
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2012
Drives: Attitude
Location: MD
Posts: 10,046
Thanks: 884
Thanked 4,890 Times in 2,903 Posts
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
|
OEM rotors cost a pretty penny for a reason. Most people who track their cars with the stock brake package use cost effective blank rotors. Moving to an aftermarket slotted rotor won't really do anything unless the internal vane structure is significantly different. That would only occur on a more expensive rotor...which in the stock size is still a waste of money IN MY OPINION.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#19 | |
|
Driver of FR-S 1467
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: 2013 scion frs 001467
Location: Longmont, co
Posts: 753
Thanks: 215
Thanked 246 Times in 143 Posts
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
|
Quote:
Im not planning to track the car or put it in any similar conditions. I just want to be able to drive safer. Ill probably go the pads rought. Fluid is in the maybe section because i shouldnt be putting the brakes under too much stress |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#20 | |
|
When In Doubt...
Join Date: May 2011
Drives: Slowww
Location: PA215
Posts: 1,844
Thanks: 1,023
Thanked 752 Times in 412 Posts
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
|
Quote:
If you're already doing the brake pads is there a good enough reason to not change to a performance oriented brake fluid too? You're gonna be flushing the fluid anyways
__________________
Join the Galaxy Blue Silica BRZ registry below: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...2c&usp=sharing |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#21 | |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: 2013 Black FR-S
Location: SF
Posts: 3,030
Thanks: 881
Thanked 2,014 Times in 990 Posts
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#22 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: B9 S4/ND2
Location: Fullerton, CA
Posts: 522
Thanks: 190
Thanked 182 Times in 106 Posts
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
|
The best bang for your buck will be swapping the TERRIBLE oem pads for some stoptech street performance pads.
They're great on the street, quiet, and CHEAP! The downside is that they're dusty (all good pads are) and that they're not race pads, so you'll have fade on the track if you're an experienced driver. Edit: For real though, if you're on a budget forget everything else, even the fluid (for the street) and just do the pads. |
|
|
|
| The Following User Says Thank You to D1cker For This Useful Post: | Silp3 (02-20-2013) |
|
|
#23 | |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Drives: 2013 Asphalt FR-S
Location: Orange County
Posts: 1,639
Thanks: 632
Thanked 982 Times in 537 Posts
Mentioned: 100 Post(s)
|
Quote:
Great price for great components... No reason to replace rotors yet.
__________________
~Namaste~ |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#24 |
|
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2012
Drives: Attitude
Location: MD
Posts: 10,046
Thanks: 884
Thanked 4,890 Times in 2,903 Posts
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
|
You don't NEED to flush fluid when doing pads, but you might as well. I have a Motive power bleeder so brake fluid flushes are EASY.
|
|
|
|
| The Following User Says Thank You to OrbitalEllipses For This Useful Post: | finch1750 (03-07-2013) |
|
|
#25 |
|
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: 2013 BRZ, 2020 KTM Super Duke 1290R
Location: Denver
Posts: 1,788
Thanks: 714
Thanked 1,141 Times in 624 Posts
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
|
If the pedal just feels mushy, there are a few culprits. The stock system feels plenty firm forstreet driving, and not what I would consider mushy in that respect. There is room for improvement, but its not bad..
First should be a thorough inspection of the brake components and bearings, if the rotors aare moving due to the bearings allowing a wheel to flex a bit, it could be causing pad knock back. The pads get pushed back into the caliper a bit, then the pads need to be pushed farther than normal to contact the rotor again. This feels mushy since the pedal doesn't have that firm feeling you're expecting. Second should be a proper bleed, if there is air in the lines it will compress under pressure and make the pedal feel mushy. This is a big one, brake bleeding is regular maintenance so its an easy one to tick off the list. Third, throw parts at it until you feel the improvement you're looking for, pads will increase friction levels and could marginally help pedal firmness, SS lines will marginally help pedal firmness, MC brace will slightly more noticeably help pedal firmness. If you're not activating ABS, then tires with more grip won't change what you're experiencing. |
|
|
|
|
|
#26 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Drives: 2013 Black FR-S
Location: SF
Posts: 3,030
Thanks: 881
Thanked 2,014 Times in 990 Posts
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
|
How does ATE Super Blue Racing DOT 4 fluid stack up?
Boiling Point of 280C (536F) |
|
|
|
|
|
#27 |
|
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2012
Drives: Attitude
Location: MD
Posts: 10,046
Thanks: 884
Thanked 4,890 Times in 2,903 Posts
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
|
Track users prefer Motul RBF600 from what I hear, though it's more hygroscopic. You'd want to flush it more often and it's on the expensive side. ATE's plenty fine, I used it in my WRX and didn't boil it on the street.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#28 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Drives: '13 FR-S
Location: Ohio
Posts: 115
Thanks: 13
Thanked 21 Times in 15 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
|
Swap in stoptechs. They're cheap, don't need heat, great for autox and street. Night and day difference versus stock. The change is very pronounced on sticky rubber.
They fade faster than track pads, true. But you really have to beat on them to experience this. |
|
|
|
| The Following User Says Thank You to funbeatsfast For This Useful Post: | D1cker (02-21-2013) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| DIY - Changing Your Brake Pads (Race Pads upgrade) | PMok | DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Guides | 53 | 09-03-2021 05:17 PM |
| Brake Pads, Rotors and All Your Brake/Suspension Needs! Great Prices!! Check it out!! | Mike@CZP | Brakes, Suspension, Chassis | 348 | 06-01-2018 12:29 PM |
| which brake pads? | NESW20 | Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing | 165 | 02-25-2018 02:07 AM |
| Redline360: Brake Lines, Brake Rotors, Brake Pads for BRZ/FRS | Redline360 | Brakes, Suspension, Chassis | 12 | 01-05-2013 10:20 PM |
| brake pads | Dpark27 | Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing | 3 | 09-07-2012 07:58 PM |