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Old 06-01-2019, 09:27 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.ac View Post
If you want to go some drastic, you can use a 1" hole saw, cut horizontal on the fender the. You'll have enough room to use a drill out.

That's my guess anyway.
That's the way they should have come from the factory -


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Old 06-01-2019, 09:30 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Ultramaroon View Post
fifm


OP, remove the valve cover no matter what. Take it to a machinist who will have much better luck with it.
I just can't believe ol "DIY yourself" Ultramaroon suggested THAT -


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Old 06-01-2019, 09:45 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by humfrz View Post
I just can't believe ol "DIY yourself" Ultramaroon suggested THAT -


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borken bolts are worse than a spiteful ex. they're best left to a professional.
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Old 06-01-2019, 10:16 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by soundman98 View Post
borken bolts are worse than a spiteful ex. they're best left to a professional.

Fer sure fer sure - I've had both.

I twisted off a water outlet bolt in the intake manifold of Chev V-8 once. While I was trying to drill a pilot hole in the broken off bolt, I twisted the drill bit off, in the bolt. Get the picture.

So, I took the intake manifold off and took it to a junk yard I did business with. My buddy there said he didn't have one, but he called his buddy at a auto racing parts store and found out he has a NEW HI-RISE manifold he would sell me cheap.

So, I scarfed it up and installed it. Oh, I had to put a low profile racing air cleaner on the carb, so I could get the hood closed.

So, the manifold was $67. the air cleaner was $20.

The new thermostat was $3.

YES! I started out to do a DIY project by replacing the damn thermostat -

NOW YOU KNOW why I quit working on my own cars -


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Old 06-02-2019, 12:08 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by humfrz View Post
I just can't believe ol "DIY yourself" Ultramaroon suggested THAT -
I know my limits.
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Old 06-02-2019, 12:23 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultramaroon View Post
I know my limits.
I found my limit drilling out a bolt once. M16-ish sized rear subframe bolt on a 219 chassis CLS55. Left front bolts break off flush in the unibody it seems.

I lowered the subframe just enough to get my air drill in and went at it. A long while later, with a mix of left and right hand drill bits I was at my limit, it wouldn’t budge.

In a fit of frustration I went full speed, full strength, in reverse. That poor SnapOn right hand drill bit got so hot it welded to the bolt and backed it right out. A very happy mistake to end a frustrating repair.




OP, I’d be pulling the valve cover and hoping for the best. Sure do miss the days of firing up the acetylene torch and blowing bolts out.
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Old 06-02-2019, 12:52 AM   #21
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In a fit of frustration I went full speed, full strength, in reverse. That poor SnapOn right hand drill bit got so hot it welded to the bolt and backed it right out. A very happy mistake to end a frustrating repair.
Perfect time to discover friction stir welding. Nice!

I once fucked up an L24 head snapping off an exhaust manifold stud. What a dumpster fire. I learned to really take my time after that one. Sometimes it comes down to the tiny diamond-tipped dremel bit.
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Old 06-02-2019, 02:37 AM   #22
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I would remove the cover, use a center punch, drill a fine hole then one slightly larger for the reverse tap then use penetrating oil then try the reverse tap. If it doesn’t easily come out then play the thermal expansion card with some heat to the aluminum cover, but not the bolt.
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Old 06-02-2019, 11:59 AM   #23
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I wouldn't try it unless you have a good drill press with a mill base. It is really important to drill it center, especially on small fasteners for if/when you end up having to drill the whole thing out.
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Old 06-02-2019, 12:22 PM   #24
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Quote:
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I wouldn't try it unless you have a good drill press with a mill base. It is really important to drill it center, especially on small fasteners for if/when you end up having to drill the whole thing out.
If he doesn’t own the parts to drill it out then buying a used or new cover is probably cheaper than buying the parts to do it correctly or paying someone to do it—maybe.

https://www.ebay.com/i/302953235166?...b25ce7ffff8dbd

https://www.subarupartsource.com/oem...SABEgKo4PD_BwE
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Old 06-02-2019, 12:26 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0 View Post
If he doesn’t own the parts to drill it out then buying a used or new cover is probably cheaper than buying the parts to do it correctly or paying someone to do it—maybe.

https://www.ebay.com/i/302953235166?...b25ce7ffff8dbd

https://www.subarupartsource.com/oem...SABEgKo4PD_BwE

Best idea yet
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Old 06-02-2019, 12:34 PM   #26
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Quote:
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Best idea yet
Thanks haha, except both of those are the wrong covers, so hopefully he doesn’t actually use those links. Just illustrating the price to replace can be cheaper than the service.
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Old 06-02-2019, 12:46 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humfrz View Post
Fer sure fer sure - I've had both.

I twisted off a water outlet bolt in the intake manifold of Chev V-8 once. While I was trying to drill a pilot hole in the broken off bolt, I twisted the drill bit off, in the bolt. Get the picture.

So, I took the intake manifold off and took it to a junk yard I did business with. My buddy there said he didn't have one, but he called his buddy at a auto racing parts store and found out he has a NEW HI-RISE manifold he would sell me cheap.

So, I scarfed it up and installed it. Oh, I had to put a low profile racing air cleaner on the carb, so I could get the hood closed.

So, the manifold was $67. the air cleaner was $20.

The new thermostat was $3.

YES! I started out to do a DIY project by replacing the damn thermostat -

NOW YOU KNOW why I quit working on my own cars -


humfrz
Is 'Buddy' a common name in the scrap business?
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Old 06-02-2019, 01:53 PM   #28
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Is 'Buddy' a common name in the scrap business?
Yes, I have several friends "in low places" -


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