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Increased front negative camber now oversteering what next
Hi All,
I still have all oem suspension except for some camber bolts and increased front camber. My wheel alignment settings are: Front Camber -2 Front Toe +0.5 Caster 6 degrees 12 minutes SAI 17 degrees 18 minutes Rear Camber -1.3 Rear Toe +1.0 I am running Bridgestone Potenza RE003 tyres (215/45/17) on 33psi. The turn in is fantastic but the rear struggles to keep up. With my driving style I found it slightly oversteered before I increased front camber and now it oversteers quite a bit. I find the traction/stability control kicking in quite a lot (when driving pretty quick around tight turns). I tried increasing the front tyre pressure to 36-38psi and while it did stop oversteering, I lost all my beautiful turn in. I have since gone back to 33psi all round and just manage the rear with my driving. What would be the next thing to balance the car but also make it faster? I track the car 3-4 times a year. Increase rear camber, front sway bar? |
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#2 |
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Is this toe out in the rear? What toe did you run before (front and rear)?
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Try dropping rear pressure first. Next steps would be to add a little toe in at the rear, as your number seems a little high (I like to shoot for zero toe in back for a car used on the street and autox/track). Next would be to add a larger swaybar up front, or add adjustable lower control arms at the rear and dial up a bit more rear camber.
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#5 | |
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Quote:
Correct. My bad. That said, I'd still shoot for zero, and regain rear stability with more camber and/or front stiffness.
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are the tires new? Are the rears worn more than the fronts?
Definitely need more rear camber. |
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The balance of camber front to rear is actually decent. IMO, it's probably how you're driving that's causing it.
Does it happen if you're off the throttle, or does the rear kick out under power? Are you adding throttle without reducing steering input?
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It oversteered slightly with stock alignment, and oversteered more with one you posted in OP? I'd rather check how you drive/what driving inputs you do. Alignment seems rather good to me. Of course it's less understeer biased then stock due increased grip from more negative camber in front, but then again that is what usually most of others wished to change in stock alignment. In your place i'd rather work on driving style on track. Have you tried getting some HPDE instructions? What you usually do with steering/brakes/throttle entering curve/mid curve/exiting?
Given your alignment numbers, which look ok, i'd think more on getting driving right, not extra mods/changes to car/suspension/alignment/tires, if even stock aligment was not fitting how you drive. |
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Could you soften up the rear suspension a bit to help with this? Or is that counterintuitive
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Add more camber, soften rear suspension rates, reduce rear tire pressure, change to softer rollbar or even take it out, increase toe-in, add that MCA anti-squat traction mod, reduce front grip in one of multiple ways .. there are lot of ways to skin a cat (get less oversteer), but question being is that right thing to do and if that is needed at all?
Imho better learn throttle/brakes/steering affects mass transfer/grip and different phases of curve, grip management, learn quick countersteering inputs, and drive-drive-drive more to get theory in reflexes, as nothing beats more seat time. Good instructions reduce learning time and lets make less mistakes to be found/corrected by many repetitions of trying out everything, but one still needs to get all that into reflexes. |
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I just thought I might mention one other possibility, sometimes at the track we would adjust the front for more bite and the driver would swear we had ruined the back. When in fact he would be turning in faster lap times. The front improved and the back did not ,but with the higher speeds the back was loose. The seat of the pants are not necessarily the best measuring device.
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#12 |
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20mm front sway bar, and control arms to even out the camber.
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#13 |
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Or, you could reset front camber to 0.
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#14 |
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Put 205s on the front...
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