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#29 |
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Twinz: Best think of wheels (and brake rotors) as four flywheels. Going at constant speed/cruising engine will need same power with wheels of different weight. But you need to input more energy to spin them up to speed, and more energy to slow spinning due more stored rotational energy as with any flywheel. So car will accelerate slightly faster and will stop slightly sooner. Not by much, but with big weight differences it can be noticeable. More so vs removing same amount of weight elsewhere. Also in addition to that being rotational it's also unsprung weight. Lighter wheel/suspension can react better on road defects, as there is less mass inertia for springs to move wheel&brakes assembly&it's suspension arm alongside those bumps/roadholes, impacting slightly grip (wheel is more of a time and with better contact with road) and comfort. For many 'butt dyno' margin of detection error might be larger then slight weight difference, but if difference is much larger (eg. forged wheels and even more so + lightweight BBK), or in opposite to lightening direction (installing for sake of looks big heavy barrels for wheels of too big size, heavy weight and with heavier due width tires), then it can be felt subjectively by most. More so then with empty or full tank.
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#30 |
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I agree on the handling aspect but for acceleration sake, even if we think of the wheels as flywheel, the vast majority of resistance is from the mass of the car itself and the load it creates when the wheel tries to move it.
If the wheel was just spinning in the air, that would be one thing, but it's sandwiched between the earth and a 2700lb car. |
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#31 |
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While in theory, a lighter wheel will provide more response in both turning and accel/decel but the reality is that the strength of the wheel tends to provide a larger difference.
I remember reading an article where Enkei took 2 sets of the exact same wheel and shaved as much weight they could off one set. The set with weight removed negatively impacted rigidity although they were about 4 pounds lighter per wheel. Then they tested each set back to back on track with exact same tires on the exact same car and the heavier wheels were repeatedly faster. In the test data, the lighter wheels had slightly faster top speeds on the straights but lost time in the corners to the tune of half a second on a minute long lap. Enkei suggests this was due to improved steering feel and feedback to the driver with the stiffer wheels. The take-away is that there are always compromises. At most, you are impacting performance by half a second per minute in a track situation. I'm a track rat so that is always a consideration for me but outside of that, I wouldn't worry about it and get what I think looks best within my budget. |
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#32 |
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Lynxis: point is to not go overboard with lightening wheels. In that experiment imho Enkei overdid cutting material out for lightening from regular wheel and maybe even at wrong places/amount, and wheel rigidity got below acceptable, it got too weak. Not sure if results of this experiment can be attributed to lighter wheel that is designed from ground up such and tested/certified for specific loads. Rest being same forged wheels can be lighter even while still as rigid as heavier cast ones. Also often oem wheels are too strong then it's really needed due manufacturer erring on safe side to lessen any possible warranty work even if car is abused way above reasonable, with owner driving it without any care over worst roads possible at high speeds. Mentioned some posts above as example RPF1 imho is reasonable compromise of strong enough but light wheels. Something like Kosei K4R (even lighter, with weight on par to forged wheels of that side, but seen them talked about as easy to bend wheels) might be lightened too much.
Well, however things end, if someone decides to change stock wheels to aftermarket ones (most probably for looks), it's worth to at least not go for heavier ones. If it can be afforded, then - lighter ones, that are still sufficiently strong. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to churchx For This Useful Post: | Lynxis (01-11-2018) |
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#33 |
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that is why it is worth spending too much money on good forged wheels. I have had Volk Ce28N wheels on my Yaris for a decade. I'll take $200 a year for a wheel that can survive anything and is lighter than anything else.
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#34 |
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I was reading lately about the flow formed technique. A few manufacturers that use it is Rays, Enkei and Work.
A nice article related with cast, flow formed and forged wheels. http://speed.academy/why-wheel-manuf...rating-matter/ A wheel I like is Work's M.C.O type CS, which is used in the 86/BRZ Gazoo races. Some wins here: https://www.work-wheels.co.jp/en/top...ry/86brz_race/ |
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#35 | |
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Quote:
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Lynxis For This Useful Post: | nikitopo (01-11-2018) |
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#36 |
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Feel the difference for yourself.
Take a 4lb weight in your hand and hold your arm straight out. Rotate the arm. Then do it with an 8lb weight. There is your answer. |
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#37 | |
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Quote:
__________________
Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar, because Racecar.
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#38 | |
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Quote:
That is NOT the same thing.
__________________
Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar, because Racecar.
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#39 |
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That 2700lb car is what makes the engine work to rotate the wheels. Yes, technically, the mass of the wheels themselvs add to the work. But then, technically, standing next to a swimming pool and peeing in it raises the water level too.
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#40 | |
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Quote:
![]() Source: http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cult...ransformation/ |
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#41 | |
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https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...orsepower.html
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#42 | ||
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Quote:
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I'm not saying that lighter isn't better. I personally think getting heavy rotating wheels to turn on the horizontal plane (left/right) is more likely to be felt by the driver than getting those same heavy wheels to move a much heavier vehicle forward. |
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