choosing between 2 frs's (please help)

[allowe]

Originally Posted by humfrz

OK.



So, since they are both manuals, I'd suggest you listen carefully when you push the clutch in and out for any noise coming from the throw out bearing (usually a squeal sound). The TOB is a relatively common weak point in the drive train and would have to be replaced if it's acting up.



Do they both shift smoothly ..??



Come back .....





humfrz

Wow alright, I'm guna test drive the grey one again soon! Thanks for that info!! My current car makes that squeak every time I push my clutch in (04 Sentra ser spec v). I do remember the white one i with 5 grand damage making that noise. Anything else I should look out for ?


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[Tcoat]

You are falling into some logic traps that could result in making a mistake.

Don't judge how the car was used by the age of the owner. Many of the young guys have this as their first car and baby it beyond belief. Many of the old guys (especially on here) drive the living crap out of them. You would be shocked at how many of the people on here are way older than you would expect.

Accident cars can be repaired as good as new but it remains an accident car. If it comes down to one with a bit higher milage for the same price then always take the milage. There has to be a big enough savings to make the accident car worthwhile.

Buying from a dealer does not mean you are getting an untouched car. People go back to stock to trade in and the dealer has no clue what was done to it. I would buy a car from a private party that discloses what had been done over a dealer one with total unknown history any day. Either way though it is a used car and there is zero way to know how it was treated so there is always a level of risk. If you can't afford new you have to accept that risk.

Although it doesn't hurt to think of any prievious mods as done wrong you can also just presume they were done right. You said yourself that you have limited experience but will do things "right". Little doubt anybody else doing mods also feel they did it right and they probably were close enough. If you are going to mod anyway then you should be able to correct anything you find wrong from before.

All in all don't expect to get a top level car for a bargain basement price. It just doesn't work that way.

[Braces]

If it's down to these 2 cars .... I would take the Black one with fewer miles.

$2000 damage is NOTHING. Most likely cosmetic damage at that cost. You're not getting a perfect car. you're looking for a bargain.

Take the car with fewer miles. Offer them $1000 less than ask and be prepared to walk. Plenty of these cars around.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by allowe

Wow alright, I'm guna test drive the grey one again soon! Thanks for that info!! My current car makes that squeak every time I push my clutch in (04 Sentra ser spec v). I do remember the white one i with 5 grand damage making that noise. Anything else I should look out for ?


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Allow me to clarify the clutch (TOB) squeal vs. a clutch pedal squeak.

A TOB that is bad will most of the time "squeal", when the engine is running and the clutch pedal is either in or sometimes out.

A clutch "squeak" (when the pedal is pushed in or let up) will squeak when the engine is running or not. That can be fixed by lubricating the slave cylinder shaft (easy to do).

Another relatively common problem (not to alarm you) is a leak (more like a seep) where the front cover of the cam chain cover is bolted/glued to the block.

A notchy shifting transmission (usually a cold transmission) shifting from 1st to 2nd has troubled some folks. Some have "fixed" it by putting in a different kind of oil.

That's all that comes to mind that might effect a non-modded 2013 FR-S.

IMHO, most of the rest of the things that have gone wrong with the FR-S is because of either:

* that some folks just don't know how to drive them

or

* that some folks slap on power mods that the platform wasn't designed for

or

* that some folks have just beat the hell out of the poor little car



I hope this helps.


humfrz

[wbradley]

Also, a service gap just means they didn't go to the dealer. I have a 4 year service gap on my FR-S!

A $2000 accident would be something extremely minor. Most collision claims these days that aren't writeoffs these days are many times that amount. Also due to deductibles and insurance rate bumps, there are many $2000 repairs not on record paid for cash. Therefore any car is suspect of unreported damage.

When you finally narrow down your choice, take it for an inspection. Probably the wisest money spent.

Look up the Canadian Blue Book value of the car online. Take a look at median asking price for a gauge. The minimum is basically wholesale.

Reminds me when I had to sell my late mother's 1 yr old Mercedes last year. Ended up getting maybe $1500 to $2000 more than the dealer would likely end up paying. And the guy basically paid Blue Book minimum. I wouldn't take any money from my Dad for taking care of it. God, I do miss my Mom a lot.

[86geek]

keep looking

[g e]

Neither of the above.

Patience.

[bcj]

The black one has no tires?
Did it go the wrong way through a tire shredder security gate?
Were the [cringe] rimz damaged? Other suspension components?
I suppose you could spend that on those sort of fixes.
Sorry. Being obtuse.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by bcj

The black one has no tires?
Did it go the wrong way through a tire shredder security gate?
Were the [cringe] rimz damaged? Other suspension components?
I suppose you could spend that on those sort of fixes.
Sorry. Being obtuse.

........ you knew what he meant ......


humfrz

[Mr.ac]

Well, my two cents wait for the dealer to fix that rattle on the first one.
The second one find out what type of accident it was. For $2k it must have been a front or rear bumber respray. The only accident I'll pass would be anything frame damage.

Like others said, take another test drive, and wait. You never know one might pop out in better condition or with a lower price/miles. If you have to drive 300 miles to find one so be it. Just ask a buddy for a ride.

[bcj]

Rattles inside where? The powertrain or the cabin?
Cabin rattles and crickets are endemic to the species.

Low information density car ad. Could spend hours conjuring conclusions.


I rarely get mine up over torque dip. It's not needed for the driving I enjoy most.
It's the knowing it's there for a nicely connected curve or two with responsible management.

[allowe]

Thank you all for your opinions I appreciate every single one of em.
-The rattle is coming from the cabin in
- the black frs had a "left side" accident. The dealership said its the fender but he's got no proof.

For those saying neither, is it because the cars are "bad" or?

Thanks for the idea of taking it to a mechanic! Should I take it to a Toyota ?

Again, thanks for your inputs !


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[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by bcj

Rattles inside where? The powertrain or the cabin?
Cabin rattles and crickets are endemic to the species.

Low information density car ad. Could spend hours conjuring conclusions.


I rarely get mine up over torque dip. It's not needed for the driving I enjoy most.
It's the knowing it's there for a nicely connected curve or two with responsible management.

Yes. If you have noise induced paranoia issues this is not the car for you. Rattles, clicks, buzzes, whines, thunks, squeaks and squeals come and go with reckless abandon and no apparent root cause. The thought "well that's new" becomes so common you don't even consider it odd after a while.

[Sarlacc]

As for winter tires, if they're as old as the car they should be changed anyway. The rubber goes hard and after 3 winters they're no good.
Also, it seems to me most people run 17" wheels for the winter tires. I prefer 16" for a slightly softer sidewall for winter driving.
So buying new wheels and tires for winter is not necessarily a bad thing :-)