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| Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ |
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#15 |
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Engineering Student
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I am thinking of buying a ramp from Magnum, and buying plattsburhg low profile jack. My car is 1.3" lowered soon lol. I don't know if this will work if I jack up the car from front/rear. Forget the pinch weld. I will only use pinch well now to put my jack stands hahaha
Thanks guys.
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#16 |
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#17 |
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Pinch welds aren't jacking points, they're lifting points. Lift from the front brace / rear diff + use stands.
Used to happen with my Camaro/Firebird, except the pinch weld there held the front fenders on and any bend caused the fender to gap. |
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#18 |
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#19 |
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my argument would be stop putting jack stands there and stop lifting there.
They are meant for roadside tire change with oem jack. There are plenty of other good spots to support the car other than the pinch welds. (directly behind them for 1) And, as mentioned, you should be lifting from the front X member and rear diff. |
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#20 | ||
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[insert cool phrase here]
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Quote:
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Wait what? Come on bro, how do you think they lift cars on mechanic/dealers shops? It's ok to lift from the pinch welds. If you want to use slit blocks, hockey pucks, or plain jacks, it's all good. Get over it.
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#21 | |
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I hear ya and I know it's OK, but if you have the option. Why do it, and risk the chance of bending it. Don't forget they (shops) are lifting from 4 points and distributing weight evenly. And other than changing a tire on the side of the road why would you only lift one side or corner? It's pointless. I'm always lifting either the front or the rear. Never the side. And once lifted, there are better places to support the car other than the pinch welds. That my theory and I'm sticking to it.
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#22 | ||
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Quote:
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If I was going to change tires I would lift it from the front just because I don't want to jack the car twice.
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#23 |
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+1 for the hockey puck
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