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Old 10-15-2015, 02:40 AM   #15
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I am thinking of buying a ramp from Magnum, and buying plattsburhg low profile jack. My car is 1.3" lowered soon lol. I don't know if this will work if I jack up the car from front/rear. Forget the pinch weld. I will only use pinch well now to put my jack stands hahaha

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Old 10-16-2015, 05:15 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by vroom4 View Post
Just start using a piece of wood on the inside edge of that weld to lift car and don't worry about it.
THIS!

Chunk of wood or hockey puck right behind the pinch weld.
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Old 10-18-2015, 10:04 AM   #17
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Pinch welds aren't jacking points, they're lifting points. Lift from the front brace / rear diff + use stands.


Used to happen with my Camaro/Firebird, except the pinch weld there held the front fenders on and any bend caused the fender to gap.
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Old 10-18-2015, 10:15 AM   #18
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Old 10-19-2015, 10:09 AM   #19
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my argument would be stop putting jack stands there and stop lifting there.
They are meant for roadside tire change with oem jack.
There are plenty of other good spots to support the car other than the pinch welds.
(directly behind them for 1)
And, as mentioned, you should be lifting from the front X member and rear diff.
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Old 10-19-2015, 10:03 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rifle View Post
Pinch welds aren't jacking points, they're lifting points. Lift from the front brace / rear diff + use stands.


Used to happen with my Camaro/Firebird, except the pinch weld there held the front fenders on and any bend caused the fender to gap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bee-jay View Post
my argument would be stop putting jack stands there and stop lifting there.
They are meant for roadside tire change with oem jack.
There are plenty of other good spots to support the car other than the pinch welds.
(directly behind them for 1)
And, as mentioned, you should be lifting from the front X member and rear diff.


Wait what?
Come on bro, how do you think they lift cars on mechanic/dealers shops?
It's ok to lift from the pinch welds. If you want to use slit blocks, hockey pucks, or plain jacks, it's all good. Get over it.
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Old 10-20-2015, 09:16 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.ac View Post
Wait what?
Come on bro, how do you think they lift cars on mechanic/dealers shops?
It's ok to lift from the pinch welds. If you want to use slit blocks, hockey pucks, or plain jacks, it's all good. Get over it.

I hear ya and I know it's OK, but if you have the option. Why do it, and risk the chance of bending it. Don't forget they (shops) are lifting from 4 points and distributing weight evenly.
And other than changing a tire on the side of the road why would you only lift one side or corner? It's pointless. I'm always lifting either the front or the rear. Never the side. And once lifted, there are better places to support the car other than the pinch welds.
That my theory and I'm sticking to it.
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Old 10-22-2015, 09:27 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bee-jay View Post
my argument would be stop putting jack stands there and stop lifting there.
They are meant for roadside tire change with oem jack.
There are plenty of other good spots to support the car other than the pinch welds.
(directly behind them for 1)
And, as mentioned, you should be lifting from the front X member and rear diff.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bee-jay View Post
I hear ya and I know it's OK, but if you have the option. Why do it, and risk the chance of bending it. Don't forget they (shops) are lifting from 4 points and distributing weight evenly.
And other than changing a tire on the side of the road why would you only lift one side or corner? It's pointless. I'm always lifting either the front or the rear. Never the side. And once lifted, there are better places to support the car other than the pinch welds.
That my theory and I'm sticking to it.
Sorry it sounded like a jerk. But I get your reason.
If I was going to change tires I would lift it from the front just because I don't want to jack the car twice.
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Old 10-22-2015, 09:48 PM   #23
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+1 for the hockey puck

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