Speaker Upgrades - That still have bass - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

ka-t_240 · 10-15-2015, 10:47 AM

Hey everyone,

Does anyone have an experience in upgrading/changing the factory speakers on these cars? I would like to updgrade, but still want something that produces decent bass, and adding a sub is not an option.

bfrank1972 · 10-16-2015, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ka-t_240

Hey everyone,

Does anyone have an experience in upgrading/changing the factory speakers on these cars? I would like to updgrade, but still want something that produces decent bass, and adding a sub is not an option.

I have to ask, why is adding a sub not an option? Also how do you define decent bass?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ka-t_240 · 10-16-2015, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bfrank1972

I have to ask, why is adding a sub not an option? Also how do you define decent bass?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

At least equal to the level that the factory speakers have, with out distorting/cutting out/bottoming out.

Sub it out as the car is typically my track car, and is usually stuffed full of gear for autox/track days and don't want to have to deal with removing equipment

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL · 10-16-2015, 05:30 PM

You're not going to get worthwhile bass without adding weight, either through deadening, or a sub. That's just the reality of physics.

As far as speakers, most 6.5" speaker have a fs around 40hz or higher, so you will never really get anything below that with any authority.

phrosty · 10-16-2015, 06:49 PM

fwiw I fit 4 wheels easy with the OEMAudio sub. It really doesn't take a huge amount of room because it's tucked in so well.

Shankenstein · 10-16-2015, 11:30 PM

3 ways to get more oomph from your door speakers:

- Increase sensitivity!
- Use a speaker with lightweight soft part (paper, foam, cloth, etc).
- Magnetic field strength or length of wire in the voice coil gap.
- Increase the power!
- Decrease the effective frequency range of the speaker.

Keep in mind that your speakers need to be water/humidity-resistant, dust-resistant, corrosion-resistant, and built sturdy enough to survive ~100,000 door slam events (20 - 50 G mechanical shock).

My Dayton RS180-4 door speakers add some low-end extension and have comparable SPL output... but they're much heavier. They add alot of magnet, lower the soft parts weight, reduce the power, and are likely to accumulate dust due to the phase plug. It also required a complicated adapter to fit in the door.

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL · 10-17-2015, 07:22 PM

Keep in mind, increased sensitivity pretty much always comes with a decrease in low end extension.

Packofcrows · 10-19-2015, 12:24 AM

Just upgrade speakers in pairs slowly. If not, remove all speakers and just leave front 4/6 or upgrade only door. IMO

$500-1000 job for upgrade. Might as well go with oem ones or build your own system. The speakers already on the car are a beast compared to others.

Mim · 10-19-2015, 04:26 AM

As part of a full rip out / replace I swapped my speakers for JL's. This included replacing the shity 3" rear wall units with 5.25" ones in a custom bracket. The build also included a small 4 channel amp.

Sound clarity improved greatly, but I'd call the Bass output to be roughly the same as stock, depending on how I tune the head unit.

To me its a great improvement over stock, but without going to the financial and performance expense of sound proofing the car and or adding a heavy sub in the boot, I'll never have earth shattering bass. My goal was to improve on what was there, still look factory and only add a minimal amount of weight to the car.

I've always been told that to get any serious improvement in sound, the system really needs an amp. Why not simply try speaking to a few audio shops for their opinions and hunt around?

Griever423 · 10-19-2015, 09:48 PM

If you're wanting to keep all your speakers you're going to have to spend some money. Anything you do will require a lot of re wiring since the car has a factory amp. Plus you have the added expense of the 3 inch speakers in the dash. Not many aftermarket speakers just drop in there without modification plus amping 6 speakers up front requires 2 amps or bridging a 4ch amp.

What a lot of people do including myself is add a good component speaker set and a 4 channel amp. You're going to lose the 3" speakers in the dash but if you get quality replacements you won't notice the difference. I'd go to a local audio store and listen to a bunch of different sets of components to find out what you like best.

Also, a headunit will increase quality and tuning ability a LOT. If you're not set on keeping the stock HU I would swap that out too.

Mim · 10-19-2015, 10:19 PM

I had my system installed for me and they ended up gutting the front dash ones to use as a housing for the new speakers. Sorry I didn't realise the factory setup actually had an amp!

Griever423 · 10-19-2015, 10:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mim

I had my system installed for me and they ended up gutting the front dash ones to use as a housing for the new speakers. Sorry I didn't realise the factory setup actually had an amp!

The factory amp goes to the 6.5's in the doors.

mav1178 · 10-20-2015, 02:28 PM

http://www.oemaudioplus.com/

Porcupint · 10-20-2015, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mav1178

http://www.oemaudioplus.com/

Can't get that setup without a sub from what I've seen.

10-15-2015, 10:47 AM	#1
ka-t_240 Senior Member Join Date: May 2014 Drives: BRZ Location: Fargo, ND Posts: 973 Thanks: 124 Thanked 328 Times in 237 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Speaker Upgrades - That still have bass Hey everyone, Does anyone have an experience in upgrading/changing the factory speakers on these cars? I would like to updgrade, but still want something that produces decent bass, and adding a sub is not an option.

10-16-2015, 06:49 PM	#5
phrosty Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Drives: 2013 FR-S Location: Seattle Posts: 806 Thanks: 202 Thanked 321 Times in 199 Posts Mentioned: 18 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	fwiw I fit 4 wheels easy with the OEMAudio sub. It really doesn't take a huge amount of room because it's tucked in so well. __________________ 2013 Whiteout 6AT FR-S \| Perrin Inlet Tube + 2.75" CAI \| OpenFlash Header \| P&L Catback \| 4.88 Final Drive \| Dialed in OFT 2.0x Stage 2 E85 \| 18x8 Enkei Raijin + 225/40 Michelin Pilot Super Sport \| 17x7 Stock + 215/45 Michelin X-Ice Xi-2

10-16-2015, 11:30 PM	#6
Shankenstein Frosty Carrot Join Date: Jan 2013 Drives: The Atomic Carrot Location: Baltimore, MD Posts: 513 Thanks: 272 Thanked 431 Times in 199 Posts Mentioned: 19 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	3 ways to get more oomph from your door speakers: - Increase sensitivity! - Use a speaker with lightweight soft part (paper, foam, cloth, etc). - Magnetic field strength or length of wire in the voice coil gap. - Increase the power! - Decrease the effective frequency range of the speaker. Keep in mind that your speakers need to be water/humidity-resistant, dust-resistant, corrosion-resistant, and built sturdy enough to survive ~100,000 door slam events (20 - 50 G mechanical shock). My Dayton RS180-4 door speakers add some low-end extension and have comparable SPL output... but they're much heavier. They add alot of magnet, lower the soft parts weight, reduce the power, and are likely to accumulate dust due to the phase plug. It also required a complicated adapter to fit in the door. __________________ If you think you're nerd enough, join in the discussions about Suspension and Aerodynamic modelling! Wall of Fame - JDL Auto Design, Raceseng, Vishnu Tuning, Penske Shocks, Nameless, Perrin, RaceComp Engineering, Essex/AP Racing, Verus, RacerX Wall of Shame - aFe Takeda, Wilwood, FA20Club

10-19-2015, 12:24 AM	#8
Packofcrows hey you, yeah you <3 Join Date: Jul 2012 Drives: 2014 37J FR-S Location: Monterey County, CA Posts: 2,715 Thanks: 905 Thanked 1,259 Times in 809 Posts Mentioned: 38 Post(s) Tagged: 3 Thread(s)	Just upgrade speakers in pairs slowly. If not, remove all speakers and just leave front 4/6 or upgrade only door. IMO $500-1000 job for upgrade. Might as well go with oem ones or build your own system. The speakers already on the car are a beast compared to others. __________________ Got my TRD wheels and TRD louvers. Thanks!!!

10-19-2015, 04:26 AM	#9
Mim Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Drives: MY11 Maxima 350st, MY15 BRZ Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 534 Thanks: 304 Thanked 342 Times in 185 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	As part of a full rip out / replace I swapped my speakers for JL's. This included replacing the shity 3" rear wall units with 5.25" ones in a custom bracket. The build also included a small 4 channel amp. Sound clarity improved greatly, but I'd call the Bass output to be roughly the same as stock, depending on how I tune the head unit. To me its a great improvement over stock, but without going to the financial and performance expense of sound proofing the car and or adding a heavy sub in the boot, I'll never have earth shattering bass. My goal was to improve on what was there, still look factory and only add a minimal amount of weight to the car. I've always been told that to get any serious improvement in sound, the system really needs an amp. Why not simply try speaking to a few audio shops for their opinions and hunt around? __________________ MY15 CWP A/T BRZ \| Leather heated seats \| STI CAI filter, A/T leather shifter, strut brace, V-brace, draw stiffener, battery tie down, Radiator cap, Oil cap, push start button \| TRD door stabilizer \| YoSpeed STI console garnish \| Pioneer AVIC-F70DAB + Rev-camera, TS-WX710A sub \| JL speakers, Amp \| TOMS' Clear Brake Lights \| Cusco 4.556 FD \| Driveshaft Shop aluminum shaft \| Tein FlexZ, EDFC AP+GPS \| Crawford BPB

10-16-2015, 05:30 PM	#4
TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Drives: Specialized Hardrock Location: Visalia, CA Posts: 170 Thanks: 0 Thanked 68 Times in 42 Posts Mentioned: 2 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	You're not going to get worthwhile bass without adding weight, either through deadening, or a sub. That's just the reality of physics. As far as speakers, most 6.5" speaker have a fs around 40hz or higher, so you will never really get anything below that with any authority.

10-17-2015, 07:22 PM	#7
TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Drives: Specialized Hardrock Location: Visalia, CA Posts: 170 Thanks: 0 Thanked 68 Times in 42 Posts Mentioned: 2 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Keep in mind, increased sensitivity pretty much always comes with a decrease in low end extension.

10-19-2015, 09:48 PM	#10
Griever423 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Drives: 2020 BRZ PP Location: DFW Posts: 220 Thanks: 146 Thanked 54 Times in 45 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	If you're wanting to keep all your speakers you're going to have to spend some money. Anything you do will require a lot of re wiring since the car has a factory amp. Plus you have the added expense of the 3 inch speakers in the dash. Not many aftermarket speakers just drop in there without modification plus amping 6 speakers up front requires 2 amps or bridging a 4ch amp. What a lot of people do including myself is add a good component speaker set and a 4 channel amp. You're going to lose the 3" speakers in the dash but if you get quality replacements you won't notice the difference. I'd go to a local audio store and listen to a bunch of different sets of components to find out what you like best. Also, a headunit will increase quality and tuning ability a LOT. If you're not set on keeping the stock HU I would swap that out too.

10-19-2015, 10:19 PM	#11
Mim Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Drives: MY11 Maxima 350st, MY15 BRZ Location: Sydney, Australia Posts: 534 Thanks: 304 Thanked 342 Times in 185 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I had my system installed for me and they ended up gutting the front dash ones to use as a housing for the new speakers. Sorry I didn't realise the factory setup actually had an amp! __________________ MY15 CWP A/T BRZ \| Leather heated seats \| STI CAI filter, A/T leather shifter, strut brace, V-brace, draw stiffener, battery tie down, Radiator cap, Oil cap, push start button \| TRD door stabilizer \| YoSpeed STI console garnish \| Pioneer AVIC-F70DAB + Rev-camera, TS-WX710A sub \| JL speakers, Amp \| TOMS' Clear Brake Lights \| Cusco 4.556 FD \| Driveshaft Shop aluminum shaft \| Tein FlexZ, EDFC AP+GPS \| Crawford BPB

10-20-2015, 02:28 PM	#13
mav1178 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Drives: 2005 Toyota Camry Location: 91745 Posts: 6,562 Thanks: 493 Thanked 6,099 Times in 3,030 Posts Mentioned: 95 Post(s) Tagged: 3 Thread(s)	http://www.oemaudioplus.com/

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