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Speaker Upgrades - That still have bass
Hey everyone,
Does anyone have an experience in upgrading/changing the factory speakers on these cars? I would like to updgrade, but still want something that produces decent bass, and adding a sub is not an option. |
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I have to ask, why is adding a sub not an option? Also how do you define decent bass? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Sub it out as the car is typically my track car, and is usually stuffed full of gear for autox/track days and don't want to have to deal with removing equipment |
You're not going to get worthwhile bass without adding weight, either through deadening, or a sub. That's just the reality of physics.
As far as speakers, most 6.5" speaker have a fs around 40hz or higher, so you will never really get anything below that with any authority. |
fwiw I fit 4 wheels easy with the OEMAudio sub. It really doesn't take a huge amount of room because it's tucked in so well.
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3 ways to get more oomph from your door speakers:
- Increase sensitivity!Keep in mind that your speakers need to be water/humidity-resistant, dust-resistant, corrosion-resistant, and built sturdy enough to survive ~100,000 door slam events (20 - 50 G mechanical shock).- Use a speaker with lightweight soft part (paper, foam, cloth, etc).- Increase the power! My Dayton RS180-4 door speakers add some low-end extension and have comparable SPL output... but they're much heavier. They add alot of magnet, lower the soft parts weight, reduce the power, and are likely to accumulate dust due to the phase plug. It also required a complicated adapter to fit in the door. |
Keep in mind, increased sensitivity pretty much always comes with a decrease in low end extension.
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Just upgrade speakers in pairs slowly. If not, remove all speakers and just leave front 4/6 or upgrade only door. IMO
$500-1000 job for upgrade. Might as well go with oem ones or build your own system. The speakers already on the car are a beast compared to others. |
As part of a full rip out / replace I swapped my speakers for JL's. This included replacing the shity 3" rear wall units with 5.25" ones in a custom bracket. The build also included a small 4 channel amp.
Sound clarity improved greatly, but I'd call the Bass output to be roughly the same as stock, depending on how I tune the head unit. To me its a great improvement over stock, but without going to the financial and performance expense of sound proofing the car and or adding a heavy sub in the boot, I'll never have earth shattering bass. My goal was to improve on what was there, still look factory and only add a minimal amount of weight to the car. I've always been told that to get any serious improvement in sound, the system really needs an amp. Why not simply try speaking to a few audio shops for their opinions and hunt around? |
If you're wanting to keep all your speakers you're going to have to spend some money. Anything you do will require a lot of re wiring since the car has a factory amp. Plus you have the added expense of the 3 inch speakers in the dash. Not many aftermarket speakers just drop in there without modification plus amping 6 speakers up front requires 2 amps or bridging a 4ch amp.
What a lot of people do including myself is add a good component speaker set and a 4 channel amp. You're going to lose the 3" speakers in the dash but if you get quality replacements you won't notice the difference. I'd go to a local audio store and listen to a bunch of different sets of components to find out what you like best. Also, a headunit will increase quality and tuning ability a LOT. If you're not set on keeping the stock HU I would swap that out too. |
I had my system installed for me and they ended up gutting the front dash ones to use as a housing for the new speakers. Sorry I didn't realise the factory setup actually had an amp!
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