Front camber adjustment.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by SLICVIC

Ive gotten -9 degrees up front by notching the top hole plus using camber bolt in top hole. Bottom hole is left as is, oem bottom bolt. (Also camber plates maxed out up top)

Cheap way for camber on our mcpherson setup is top hole notch, although this brings the strut very close to the inner wheel well, might have clearance issues if not on coilovers

9* of camber?

[ML]

more like

[Dezoris]

:happy0180:

Originally Posted by ayau

Your 245 tires haven't rubbed against the front lower spring perch?

I have 17x7.5 +50 on 215/45/17. After a track event, I noticed the inner tire rubbed against the lower spring perch. I have -1.5 and -1.7 front camber with OEM crash bolts.

Offset issue more than likely. I.was running 235/45 with 17x8 45 and it was close no rubbing though

[ayau]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

:happy0180:

Offset issue more than likely. I.was running 235/45 with 17x8 45 and it was close no rubbing though

How much camber at the front do you have though? I'm at -1.5 and -1.7.

You have an extra 5mm of clearance from your wheels, but your tires are wider at 235. I'm running 215. For reference, I can barely fit one finger between the tire and the lower spring perch.

I'm going to be looking at running lower offset wheels. Probably +42 or less on 17x8. I miss the extra clearance when I had aftermarket coilovers.

[Dezoris]

It was between 1.3 and 1.5 depending on alignment rack. Top camber bolt only.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

It was between 1.3 and 1.5 depending on alignment rack. Top camber bolt only.

IIRC you also have Ohlins coilovers installed, so that will afford you even more clearance for wider wheels or more offset.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by ayau

How much camber at the front do you have though? I'm at -1.5 and -1.7.

You have an extra 5mm of clearance from your wheels, but your tires are wider at 235. I'm running 215. For reference, I can barely fit one finger between the tire and the lower spring perch.

I'm going to be looking at running lower offset wheels. Probably +42 or less on 17x8. I miss the extra clearance when I had aftermarket coilovers.

My stock rims(+48) and tires(215/45/17) clear just fine with room to spare @ -2.6*.

[ayau]

Originally Posted by solidONE

My stock rims(+48) and tires(215/45/17) clear just fine with room to spare @ -2.6*.

OEM suspension except for replaced top and bottom strut bolts?

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by ayau

OEM suspension except for replaced top and bottom strut bolts?

That and 1" drop springs only. Stock diameter coils.

Some wheels spacers will offer you a cheap and quick fix if you are having problems with clearance.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by solidONE

IIRC you also have Ohlins coilovers installed, so that will afford you even more clearance for wider wheels or more offset.

That was on stock suspension.

[xkalelx]

Actually, these are class 10.9 hardware (metric grade 8). I just installed a set of $17 ebay special SPC cam bolts on my BRZ this morning. They have a glass bead shot finish instead of the black oxide or zinc galvanized finish you are accustomed to seeing on hardware and IS NOT an indication of quality. These bolts have a tensile strength of 150ksi and unless you're smacking a curb going 35mph you shouldn't have any problems out of these. If they are rusty like in the picture, hit them with some PB Blaster (and or a brass brush if they look bad) and they should come right off. SURFACE RUST IS NOT AN INDICATION OF POOR QUALITY. Go ahead and spend double on some black oxide hardware, it isn't any stronger or higher quality and more than likely was made at the same plant as the SPCs.

Originally Posted by Dezoris

I am with Mike @CSG Mike on this. I ran the crash bolt on the top of the strut, difficult to align and had to re-align after several autox. The Whitle bolt (re-packaged SPC) was more of the same, had to re-align 4x since install. Mind you this was from harder driving.

Using these bolts on both top and bottom is not something I would ever consider, and if you did you absolutely want to use thread lock on both bolts and check TQ monthly.

Lastly those SPC bolts IMO are low quality hardware. There is no excuse for $30 bolts completely turning to rust after 6 months. Here is a picture of stock bolt compared. Whenever I see an SPC suspension piece I think wow that's affordable, but chances are this is the fine print.

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by xkalelx

Actually, these are class 10.9 hardware (metric grade 8). I just installed a set of $17 ebay special SPC cam bolts on my BRZ this morning. They have a glass bead shot finish instead of the black oxide or zinc galvanized finish you are accustomed to seeing on hardware and IS NOT an indication of quality. These bolts have a tensile strength of 150ksi and unless you're smacking a curb going 35mph you shouldn't have any problems out of these. If they are rusty like in the picture, hit them with some PB Blaster (and or a brass brush if they look bad) and they should come right off. SURFACE RUST IS NOT AN INDICATION OF POOR QUALITY. Go ahead and spend double on some black oxide hardware, it isn't any stronger or higher quality and more than likely was made at the same plant as the SPCs.

I understand that, but if you look at the factory bolt it has no such issue. And for an adjustable cam bolt last thing you need is it rusting on so badly you can't adjust it without drilling it out. I mean not even a year, imagine 3 years. That bolt aint turning after that.

[Khyron686]

So wait, you mean with just 1 set of camber bolts (SPC, upper mount), RCE Yellow springs, there's a chance 17x8 ET 48 wheels with 245/40 tires will rub the perch?? I thought there'd be TONS of clearance (based on guys running 9-11 inch wide wheels etc)??

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Khyron686

So wait, you mean with just 1 set of camber bolts (SPC, upper mount), RCE Yellow springs, there's a chance 17x8 ET 48 wheels with 245/40 tires will rub the perch?? I thought there'd be TONS of clearance (based on guys running 9-11 inch wide wheels etc)??

I'm willing to bet everyone with wider than 9" up front is on coilovers, which buys you about an inch of clearance between the tire and the lower spring seat.

I know I didn't have a ton of clearance with 17x8 +45 and 225's, maybe 10mm. If you want to run 245's you're better off with 17x8 +35 or 17x9 +35, if you have some camber you won't poke at all.