z

[Grip Ronin]

i did revworks header and front pipe on stock exhaust,big differance in mid range, sound was terrible sounded like a go kart when i got on it but it was quiet when driving normal.over pipe isnt worth it and a catback helps only up top. like the very top were it almost doesnt matter lol

[reesmicm]

In the base pull with header+ "without the tune", was the torque dip there. Was wondering how much a good tune can be in getting rid of the torque dip with just a Perrin catback

FastFreddy-thanks for your postings

[Fast_Freddy]

Originally Posted by reesmicm

In the base pull with header+ "without the tune", was the torque dip there. Was wondering how much a good tune can be in getting rid of the torque dip with just a Perrin catback

FastFreddy-thanks for your postings

IMO a header is necessary to completely eliminate the tq dip however a tune will make the biggest improvement in feel and overall power gains. I think a good tune or a header will reduce the tq dip enough that you probably won't notice it any more and a header + tune can eliminate the dip completely.

BTW, this is the only sound clip I have so far. I'll try to get something better posted soon.

[ame]http://youtu.be/s6qvgK6HMtc[/ame]

[Fast_Freddy]

Another update.

While the overall sound with just the header and HFC front pipe was pretty good there was a very annoying, occasional, metallic resonance/harmonic at low speeds/rpm. Going by the general Borla hate blindly parroted on this forum myself and my mechanic expected the cause to be the Borla flex sections or "cheap" HFC Tsudo front pipe. Surprisingly, replacing the OEM over-pipe with a Perrin pipe eliminated this noise entirely. So if you're hearing an annoying metallic resonance from your exhaust, check the over-pipe first. Removing the heat shields may be enough but I didn't try that.

Props to Brady and Pure Automotive for the hookup on the Perrin over-pipe and Perrin silicone intake tube. As always, great work at very fair prices.

[Gardus@Supersprint]

I can confirm that replacing the headers and the front pipe with pipe-only component often result in metallic vibration.
This can be cause both by heatshield rattle but it's often caused by the harmonic vibration of the pipes themselves.
Basically any long section of pipe with this engine cause the metallic rasp on liftoff and at certain rpm.

[FR-Sizzle]

Get a tune first... free baseline dyno and when you get all your other bolt ons done itll make them perform much better and smoother.

If you get headers you will need to get a tune in the future regardless. The gains from a tune are the best option/route to go if you plan to get all basic bolt ons and to heavily mod it more.

If memory serves me right tunes also increase your MPG to which will save you gas and eventually pay it off after a long time but still good nonetheless. So the earlier you get a tune the more you save. Along with slightly better sounds from the engine, good gains, and extra goodies like revving to higher RPM's and things like launch control.

[Gardus@Supersprint]

I wouldn't bet on a engine sound change with a ECU tune.
I agree on the fact that if you start modifying the GT86 it's better to get a Ecutek cable and contact a company willing to give you map upgrades as you go on with mods.

I would fit headers and HFC on the front pipe + specific map as first engine mod, maybe adding a good intake.
After that, there's only super or turbo charging...

[Fast_Freddy]

Originally Posted by Gardus@Supersprint

I can confirm that replacing the headers and the front pipe with pipe-only component often result in metallic vibration.
This can be cause both by heatshield rattle but it's often caused by the harmonic vibration of the pipes themselves.
Basically any long section of pipe with this engine cause the metallic rasp on liftoff and at certain rpm.

Thank you. I'm 99.9% sure that in my case the annoying resonance was the heat shields on the OEM over-pipe since replacing it eliminated the sound entirely.

One reason I posted about this is because I've seen many Borla header owners with stock over-pipes blaming similar noises on the header flex sections. I suggest that the stock over-pipe may well be the actual cause in some or all of these cases, as it was in mine.

Originally Posted by FR-Sizzle

Get a tune first... free baseline dyno and when you get all your other bolt ons done itll make them perform much better and smoother.

If you get headers you will need to get a tune in the future regardless. The gains from a tune are the best option/route to go if you plan to get all basic bolt ons and to heavily mod it more.

If memory serves me right tunes also increase your MPG to which will save you gas and eventually pay it off after a long time but still good nonetheless. So the earlier you get a tune the more you save. Along with slightly better sounds from the engine, good gains, and extra goodies like revving to higher RPM's and things like launch control.

If you're addressing me, I already have a tune. I posted my before/after tune dyno results on the first page. Although the car ran flawlessly with the header and no tune, it did gain a few more ponies with the tune. As for increased fuel economy from a performance tune, I don't think it's very likely. I've certainly never seen it happen in recent years now that the OEM's already wring out every last mpg.