Touge Factory Brake Cooling Kit Review

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Doborder

This kit is just for the ducts alone
No piping pt backing plate
http://aprperformance.com/index.php?...=330&Itemid=44

I emailed FT86speedfactory and they confirmed that you get both the inlets and the outlets in the APR kit that they sell, just add piping.

[Doborder]

Originally Posted by RehabJeff86

PMu was great at MRLS w/o fading but like CSG Mike said, it makes brake pads more effective and lowering overall cost....im seriously considering this kit

We'll talk after my first track day in the BRZ... too many unknowns... I don't want to get something unless I know I need it.

[orthojoe]

Originally Posted by Doborder

We'll talk after my first track day in the BRZ... too many unknowns... I don't want to get something unless I know I need it.

If you can't get the brakes to fade or overheat at MRLS, which neither Jeff or I have, then you're ok. MRLS is about as brutal as it gets with brakes. However, that could change if you upgrade grip and power. For mine, yours, and Jeff's current setup this kit will only help with longevity by keeping things cooler. However, I'm impressed with the durability of the PMu CR pads even without. We only lost a few mm of pad thickness at MRLS, compared to >1/2 of the pad's original thickness when I tracked my Evo there. My guess is that we'll never need to use cooling ducts unless power is upgraded significantly on our cars.

I'd get the cooling duct kit for your GTR first, Mike.

[smbstyle]

Just an update from my 3rd track day with this kit:

It's working great; only losing 1/32" of pad material per track day, can't even measure the rotor thickness drop with my micrometer, so should be good through the rest of the year on these pads (Hawk DTC-60s).

No brake fade at all with Michelin Pilot Super Sports on, normal heat checking but after 3 full days no cracks that can be caught by a finger nail, and there don't appear any more or worse heat check cracks than there were at the end of my first session on the first track day. These stock rotors should last me a while (knock on wood).

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by smbstyle

Just an update from my 3rd track day with this kit:

It's working great; only losing 1/32" of pad material per track day, can't even measure the rotor thickness drop with my micrometer, so should be good through the rest of the year on these pads (Hawk DTC-60s).

No brake fade at all with Michelin Pilot Super Sports on, normal heat checking but after 3 full days no cracks that can be caught by a finger nail, and there don't appear any more or worse heat check cracks than there were at the end of my first session on the first track day. These stock rotors should last me a while (knock on wood).

How much would you attribute to the brake setup, and how much to the ducts?

[smbstyle]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

How much would you attribute to the brake setup, and how much to the ducts?

I definitely attribute the lack of fade to the ducts, because I compared open vs. closed ducts and noticed a significant difference, as after two laps with them closed off I had fade, but when open I can run full sessions without any fade at all.

Compared to what others have experienced with horrible rotor wear and complete cracking on the first or second track day (Dave_ROR and LDadrenaline), I would say that I am fairing much better than them, with the main difference being I have the brake ducts. However, it would be hard to say that is directly correlated with me having ducting and they don't, as there is a difference in driving style, brake pad material used, etc.

I am not sure what kind of wear people are having with pads, but I'm happy with losing 1/32" a day.

I think my next pads are going to be Cobalts; I've always wanted to try them, and hear they are hard on rotors, so we'll see how long I can get these bad boys to last.



Also, to update on the little issue I had with the location of the speed sensor wire contacting the duct backing plates with the wheels at centerline, I solved the issue with putting some heat tape around the wire in the location it rubbed, and some heat tape on the piece of metal that the wire contacts. No wear/issues with that at all now.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by smbstyle

I definitely attribute the lack of fade to the ducts, because I compared open vs. closed ducts and noticed a significant difference, as after two laps with them closed off I had fade, but I can run full sessions without any fade at all.

Compared to what others have experienced with horrible rotor wear and complete cracking on the first or second track day (Dave_ROR and LDadrenaline), I would say that I am fairing much better than them, with the main difference being I have the brake ducts. However, it would be hard to say that is directly correlated with me having ducting and they don't, as there is a difference in driving style, brake pad material used, etc.

I am not sure what kind of wear people are having with pads, but I'm happy with losing 1/32" a day.

I think my next pads are going to be Cobalts; I've always wanted to try them, and hear they are hard on rotors, so we'll see how long I can get these bad boys to last.

What pads are you using?

I know @Dave-ROR has cracked a rotor, but we haven't, and our rotors have easily seen 100+ deep heat cycles.

[smbstyle]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

What pads are you using?

I know @Dave-ROR has cracked a rotor, but we haven't, and our rotors have easily seen 100+ deep heat cycles.

I am using DTC-60s, and I am using the brakes HARD.

[rice_classic]

You guys want to see pictures of my DTC-60's? This is what 3 different sets did to me...

[rice_classic]

No more Hawk pads for this guy.


I have now sold my soul to Raybestos for brake pads. The ST series got to "11".

I use ST43's and 42's depending on track. (42's for tracks that are easier on brakes and 43's for when I'm racing in Hell)

[CSG Mike]

but the DTC is so (relatively speaking) inexpensive!

[smbstyle]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

No more Hawk pads for this guy.


I have now sold my soul to Raybestos for brake pads. The ST series got to "11".

I use ST43's and 42's depending on track. (42's for tracks that are easier on brakes and 43's for when I'm racing in Hell)

wow, that's horrific. any explanation from Hawk on that issue?

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by smbstyle

wow, that's horrific. any explanation from Hawk on that issue?

Negative. Never pursued it. But I'm not the only one to have this happen. I was warned before I bought them, did it anyway.

No damaged occured, pad material stayed put until the pad itself was removed from the caliper. Not catastrophic failure. If there was a braking failure while on track you can bet your ass I would have contacted Hawk but...

Since there's multiple brands out there that "do it better", it's just easier to not buy Hawk again than worry about hassling with them.

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

but the DTC is so (relatively speaking) inexpensive!

I was paying $145 for the Hawks, now I pay $220 for my Raybestos. The Raybestos pads are good for 1500 degrees, they are "relatively" kind to rotors (the 42's are insanely kind to rotors), they will never give up and they wear like iron. They out perform and last more than twice as long on my under-braked race car than ANY OTHER PAD I've used. So when I sit down and calculate the cost per life of pad and rotor replacement... The Raybestos ST series are a superior value.

Sometimes the things that cost more, end up costing you less. This is one of those times.


p.s. you really want to extend the life your pads... Flip them between sessions. It's really easy on single or double piston floating calipers, takes all of 5 minutes and keeps your pads from tapering! Think how much money you can save when you're not throwing them away due to taper.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

Negative. Never pursued it. But I'm not the only one to have this happen. I was warned before I bought them, did it anyway.

No damaged occured, pad material stayed put until the pad itself was removed from the caliper. Not catastrophic failure. If there was a braking failure while on track you can bet your ass I would have contacted Hawk but...

Since there's multiple brands out there that "do it better", it's just easier to not buy Hawk again than worry about hassling with them.



I was paying $145 for the Hawks, now I pay $220 for my Raybestos. The Raybestos pads are good for 1500 degrees, they are "relatively" kind to rotors (the 42's are insanely kind to rotors), they will never give up and they wear like iron. They out perform and last more than twice as long on my under-braked race car than ANY OTHER PAD I've used. So when I sit down and calculate the cost per life of pad and rotor replacement... The Raybestos ST series are a superior value.

Sometimes the things that cost more, end up costing you less. This is one of those times.


p.s. you really want to extend the life your pads... Flip them between sessions. It's really easy on single or double piston floating calipers, takes all of 5 minutes and keeps your pads from tapering! Think how much money you can save when you're not throwing them away due to taper.

I've seen the same with the DTCs...

Your description of the Raybestos sounds almost exactly like my favorite pad.