Lowering and Alignment Question

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by wparsons

^^ top hole, not bottom hole. You'll get more adjustment range in the top hole.

Ok, I was just going off the instructions. Top hole it is.

[wparsons]

Whiteline says top hole, same bolts. Consensus is that the bottom hole really limits how much adjustment you get.

[DieselDog]

Put in SPC bolts in the front and LCA's in the rear.

After coming off the alignment rack specs are bang on and didn't need to use toe bushings.

-2.0 front camber 0 toe.
-1.5 rear camber 1/32 toe on each side for total 1/16

[Basket Case]

Not to thread jack, but can the rear camber be adjusted at all without LCA's? I have hotchkis springs and havnt gotten anything aligned yet. You can visably see the negative camber in the rear. Will an alignment even gain me anything?

[wparsons]

There is zero camber adjustment stock, so if you want to change it then you'll need parts.

[Basket Case]

wow, so then there really is no point in getting an alignment done after a spring install then unless you get the LCA's...At least my car tracks strait.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Basket Case

wow, so then there really is no point in getting an alignment done after a spring install then unless you get the LCA's...At least my car tracks strait.

Your toe does change after a spring install, so you'll want to take care of that at least (and yes there is toe adjustment stock). Toe is more important for tire wear than camber as well.

- Andrew

[Basket Case]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Your toe does change after a spring install, so you'll want to take care of that at least (and yes there is toe adjustment stock). Toe is more important for tire wear than camber as well.

- Andrew

Cool, I guess i will actually go and get it done then...Going on a couple thousand mile trip next week, probably best to not ruin my tires, lol.

[wheelhaus]

Toe is the most important factor for tire wear.

Camber (static camber) can have an effect on tire wear, but the idea for camber is to balance inner/outer wear to your driving style and utilize more contact area when you need it most.

Caster only affects the front wheels, and it's not adjustable without camber plates. This is the axis the wheel steers around, like the angle of a bicycle fork. It helps the tire lean into a turn, and can be considered "dynamic camber" because it changes the tire's camber as the wheels are turned farther.

If you're 98% highway miles, then OEM to -1° F and -0.5°R would probably be just fine.

If you have a more "spirited" time behind the wheel and uh, well, frequently capitalize on any opportunity to utilize more lateral grip, then -2 to -2.5 F and -1.5 to -2 R should be fantastic. The idea here is to square up the tire's contact patch in a loaded turn when the outside tires are weighted.

There's no perfect alignment for everyone, the factory just gives safe ranges to make the car understeer and more stable.