Tire Type and Size Questions!

[calmtigers]

I apologize for cluttering the thread as there is already one on this but I have a more specifics for my issue!

So I just bought some te37sl 18x9 +45 (delivery next week) will be mounting to stock struts w/ eibach pro kit

Not sure what tire size I should go between 245/35 or 225/40

I want to keep the stock feel of being pretty loose in the rear so I dont lose the fun of the car, I'm guessing that would be the 225/40 because its more narrow right? (also dont want to worry about rubbing etc)

Also if anyone has suggestions for tire brand and place to buy that tire.
Not looking to track just for back road fun and decently inexpensive/doesn't murder my mpg

[Whats that smell?]

If you go 225's your gonna have a crazy stretch. I would go with the 245's.

[calmtigers]

Only issue is looks like I'll definitely have to run spacers if I go 245 it'll look really poked out


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[Whats that smell?]

No it won't if your running +45. I have 18x8.75 +33 and it pokes by like 3mm up front.

[gramicci101]

If you want to run 225's then you probably should have gotten an 18x8. A 245 would be a much better fit for a 9" wide wheel. +45 shouldn't have any poke, although you may run into inside edge clearance issues if you're on springs vs. coilovers. A 3mm spacer would help with that though. The wheel poking out is a function of wheel offset, not tire width.


Tire brand and model is a pretty debated topic with no one answer. It comes down to what you want to do, what kind of weather you face, will you have or even need separate winter tires, etc... Michelin Pilot Super Sports often rise to the top of those conversations when talking about summer tires. Tirerack, Costco, Discount Tire, your local place right down the street; check the prices at all of them and pick the best one.

[DavidBob]

225's on 18x9's wont be a crazy stretch but it will be a little stretched. some people dont like the look but if your lowered it should look fine and you won't have any rubbing issues
-Dave

[rickybutl]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

If you want to run 225's then you probably should have gotten an 18x8. A 245 would be a much better fit for a 9" wide wheel. +45 shouldn't have any poke, although you may run into inside edge clearance issues if you're on springs vs. coilovers. A 3mm spacer would help with that though. The wheel poking out is a function of wheel offset, not tire width.


Tire brand and model is a pretty debated topic with no one answer. It comes down to what you want to do, what kind of weather you face, will you have or even need separate winter tires, etc... Michelin Pilot Super Sports often rise to the top of those conversations when talking about summer tires. Tirerack, Costco, Discount Tire, your local place right down the street; check the prices at all of them and pick the best one.

I agree with you and thanks mate for this information.

[calmtigers]

Thank you all for the great feedback.
So def decided on the 225/40s as I had a similar stretch on my last 18x9 but prob will be switching to the meatier set up later when i have coils and i dont have to worry about rubbing.

But in terms of fitment, i have a 5mm spacer they do bolt on but with not that many turns and the guys at the tire shop seem to be scared. They got a special lugnut that will grab more but they're not thin enough to do so.

They are saying they'll drill out the lug holes just enough to fit those lugs and everything will be cherry. Is this okay? I'm kind of worried because the te37s are so goddamn expensive

[gramicci101]

They're going to drill out your wheels just to use the OEM studs? Run, don't walk, away from that shop.

3mm is about the largest spacer that you can use OEM studs on. At about 15mm and up, spacers come with their own embedded studs. Between 3-15mm, you should look at longer replacement studs such as ARP.

[calmtigers]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

They're going to drill out your wheels just to use the OEM studs? Run, don't walk, away from that shop.

3mm is about the largest spacer that you can use OEM studs on. At about 15mm and up, spacers come with their own embedded studs. Between 3-15mm, you should look at longer replacement studs such as ARP.

I'm only running 5mm just for clearance in the rear. It does have a few turns on the studs.
I don't want to go bigger because then the wheel will poke way too much.

They made it seem like drilling out the lug holes was a normal thing to do


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[FirestormFRS]

Why would you pay that kinda of money for wheels and let someone destroy them? Drilling the lug holes will weaken the wheel at the very point it needs to be strongest. Your money and your car, but I'll have the "I told you so" ready!

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by calmtigers

They made it seem like drilling out the lug holes was a normal thing to do.

And that's why you need to find a new shop. They'll destroy a $2000 set of wheels because swapping out $100 worth of lugs never occurred to them. And they've apparently done this before to other people. Some random tire shop does NOT know more than Volk Racing about the material strength and expected stresses placed on a Volk wheel. What they're proposing is a tremendous safety risk. What happens if the wheel fractures at their drill point because there isn't enough material left to support it?

Search the forum for ARP wheel studs. Get a different shop to press out the OEM wheel studs and press in the new wheel studs. Or do it yourself; it's not difficult. There are write-ups for it in the DIY section. Then use your 5mm spacers and be comfortable knowing that no corners were cut, your wheels are still intact, and your car is still safe. But don't give that shop any more of your money; they'll tear your car up and tell you that everything is fine.

[calmtigers]

Thanks guys!


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[calmtigers]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

And that's why you need to find a new shop. They'll destroy a $2000 set of wheels because swapping out $100 worth of lugs never occurred to them. And they've apparently done this before to other people. Some random tire shop does NOT know more than Volk Racing about the material strength and expected stresses placed on a Volk wheel. What they're proposing is a tremendous safety risk. What happens if the wheel fractures at their drill point because there isn't enough material left to support it?

Search the forum for ARP wheel studs. Get a different shop to press out the OEM wheel studs and press in the new wheel studs. Or do it yourself; it's not difficult. There are write-ups for it in the DIY section. Then use your 5mm spacers and be comfortable knowing that no corners were cut, your wheels are still intact, and your car is still safe. But don't give that shop any more of your money; they'll tear your car up and tell you that everything is fine.

This is exactly what I thought, especially when the cost differential is so low on the studs.

Thank you all!