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| Electronics | Audio | NAV | Infotainment Anything related to in-car electronics, navigation, and infotainment. |
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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: '13 BRZ Limited WRB Phantom ESC 1.5
Location: Middleport, OH
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Bonded Logic Sound Insulation - anyone tried it?
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'13 BRZ Ltd MT WRB Phantom ESC 1.5
2012 Honda Accord Coupe 2006 Saab 9-3 2.0t 1997 Honda Accord Coupe 1995 Honda Prelude VTEC |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to robwbright For This Useful Post: | microbionic (06-03-2014) |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Drives: Firestorm FRS
Location: NH
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I'd be interested in learning more too. It looks to be considerably lighter than MLV, so I would not feel guilty lining my doors/floors with it if it is actually that effective. One person in the reviews stated they say a drop from 76db to 71db after installing on the floors/doors of their truck. If I could get a 5db drop for <$100 I would be all over that, I think it would bring it down to a more comfortable long drive noise level.
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#3 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: '13 BRZ Limited WRB Phantom ESC 1.5
Location: Middleport, OH
Posts: 720
Thanks: 277
Thanked 243 Times in 165 Posts
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
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Quote:
__________________
'13 BRZ Ltd MT WRB Phantom ESC 1.5
2012 Honda Accord Coupe 2006 Saab 9-3 2.0t 1997 Honda Accord Coupe 1995 Honda Prelude VTEC |
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#4 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Drives: Firestorm FRS
Location: NH
Posts: 180
Thanks: 141
Thanked 78 Times in 50 Posts
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
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Quote:
I do like that it is not asphalt based, and that it is not absurdly heavy like MLV. I know it will not have the same performance as a MLV, but it might be a nice compromise. |
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#5 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: '13 BRZ Limited WRB Phantom ESC 1.5
Location: Middleport, OH
Posts: 720
Thanks: 277
Thanked 243 Times in 165 Posts
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
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Quote:
I didn't see your post until today... and I started the project last night, so I'm not going to have before and after db levels. My main goal was to resolve the rattling door when the stereo was on. Secondary goal was to quiet things down a bit. I started with the floor of the trunk - just basically covered the area under the spare. I wanted to test how the adhesive worked without making a mistake that would be obvious. Then I moved to the passenger door (where most of the rattle was coming from). Basically, I looked at the window/lock switch box and it's easy to see why it was rattling - it's two different pieces snapped together and then snapped into the door trim. The snaps hold quite snug from coming apart, but there's a lot of play between each piece - if that makes any sense. I decided to just duct tape all around the outside where it snaps together. Then I was about to use adhesive spray to coat the inner part of the door trim and apply the insulation. It occurred to me that the insulation can't really go anywhere in the door, so to save the mess of spraying all over everything, I just cut pieces of insulation and used duct tape to hold them in place. I cut a piece that fit snugly around the speaker hole, as well. Then I reinstalled the door trim. By then it was getting dark - I have a nice outbuilding, but not a garage, so I decided to call it quits because it looked like rain and I didn't want to set up lights. I shut the car doors and turned on the radio. The difference is significant. No door rattle at all. Then I noticed that I was noticing different things in the song that I was using as a reference than I had noticed in the car before. The bass from the door speakers seemed tighter as well. I plan to do the other door, the undersides of the rear seats and the front floorboards. After that, I'll try to remember to update the thread with another report.
__________________
'13 BRZ Ltd MT WRB Phantom ESC 1.5
2012 Honda Accord Coupe 2006 Saab 9-3 2.0t 1997 Honda Accord Coupe 1995 Honda Prelude VTEC |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to robwbright For This Useful Post: | Mister (06-10-2014) |
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