Lug nut question

[fiveoneoh]

I just bought ARP wheel studs (same length as OEM) and now I need to buy lug nuts, but I'm a bit confused about how to proceed, even after reading other threads about similar topics.

I track and autocross the car about once a month each. I have the stock wheels. I'd prefer lug nuts that don't require a key and that have closed ends.

I like the price of Gorilla brand, but they only seem to sell lug nuts that require a key.

Can you guys recommend some other, reasonably priced options?

Questions:
1. As long as I find the correct size, M12X1.25, and they are conical and the right length, any brand's lug nuts should fit, right?
2. Is there a minimum length requirement, to ensure enough of the stud is secure?
3. In a pinch, can I use the OEM ones?

Thanks!

[finch1750]

Get some closed end Mutekis and call it good.

If the studs are stock legnth any aftermarket should work given the correct specs you stated. The limit on the OEM lugs are if you wheels require a small diameter tuner lug and the OEM are too wide. If they fit diameter wise they should work too.

You need at least 6 full turns to be safe from what I read a while back when I put spacers on another car.

[Mr.ac]

Originally Posted by fiveoneoh

Questions:
1. As long as I find the correct size, M12X1.25, and they are conical and the right length, any brand's lug nuts should fit, right?
2. Is there a minimum length requirement, to ensure enough of the stud is secure?
3. In a pinch, can I use the OEM ones?

Thanks!

1.yes.
2.yes. Try to stick to oem length. There a whole mathematical equation on minimal thread holding power. A quick glance from my machinist handbook 3/4" is enough for most applications. Don't forget to properly torque them.
3.yes. Not sure why would you not? Unless they don't fit your wheels, or just want new bling lug nuts.

I been using some cheap-o $25 chrome lug nuts on my MR2 Turbo from O'reillys. They seen years of autox and track days and they are still good. But eh, that's just me.

[Icecreamtruk]

A recommendation that I never see made (on the contrary, some people recommend against it) is to get aluminium lug nuts and have a spare set if you are swapping wheels often. People will tell you all about the horrors of how aluminium nuts are not as strong as steel or chromology ones and bla bla bla. Those are the same people that when they crossthread a lugnut they break the stud, and need to limp home on 4 or less studs on a hub or on the bed of a tow truck. When you crossthread an alumunium lug nut, for one, you feel it right away (as it feels it doesnt tighten) and you also just take it out, throw it on the trash and put a new one in, your studs will not suffer from it. I put on and take my wheels 2 to 4 times per track day, and do around 15 track days per year. I have been tracked for 4 years and have yet to break a stud. You do you, thats my $0.02

[ka-t_240]

Ive had the same set of Muteki SR48(open end lug nuts since 2013). Best value in lugs, IMO. Car is tracked and autox'd regularly, and I have 4 sets of wheels for it.

[strat61caster]

Yeah, don't know why you wouldn't just use OE or something cheap off the shelf.
Keep the threads clean, never force them.
I found a set of closed lugs with 3/4" hex for $15 on Amazon just now, I'm happy with my open end Gorillas (also 3/4" I didn't want to mess with a key either), if it weren't for the extended studs (shorter ones weren't available at the time and I've got spacers) I'd gladly save $50.

Edit: Also summit racing has incredible filters for car parts...

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...rder=Ascending

[jasonojordan]

If your car is used in winter weather/salty climate (see your in california so doubt its much of a issue unless your right on the ocean front) I would avoid using open ended lugs. If not then w.e style fits your fancy. I run muteki SR48 open end lugs on my brz with the stock studs.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QHMS5S...ding=UTF8&th=1

If your worried about your wheels being stolen then muteki also sells a wheel lock of the same style.

https://www.amazon.com/Muteki-32901B..._&dpSrc=detail

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by fiveoneoh

I just bought ARP wheel studs (same length as OEM) and now I need to buy lug nuts, but I'm a bit confused about how to proceed, even after reading other threads about similar topics.

I track and autocross the car about once a month each. I have the stock wheels. I'd prefer lug nuts that don't require a key and that have closed ends.

I like the price of Gorilla brand, but they only seem to sell lug nuts that require a key.

Can you guys recommend some other, reasonably priced options?

Questions:
1. As long as I find the correct size, M12X1.25, and they are conical and the right length, any brand's lug nuts should fit, right?
2. Is there a minimum length requirement, to ensure enough of the stud is secure?
3. In a pinch, can I use the OEM ones?

Thanks!

Don't cheap out on lugnuts. They're the only thing holding your wheels on.

That being said, going super expensive gets you diminishing returns on quality.

Got a color you happen to prefer?

[fiveoneoh]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Don't cheap out on lugnuts. They're the only thing holding your wheels on.

That being said, going super expensive gets you diminishing returns on quality.

Got a color you happen to prefer?

ha, I didn't have a preference (except must be simple, functional) until I saw these multicolored ones (they looked different colors from different angles) on this car last weekend and I was like "oooooh, pretty."

So to summarize, I'd consider colored ones if they really wowed me, but otherwise, I am leaning towards cheapest and most functional for my driving style (mostly garaged except for driving to/from track and autocross 1-2 a month).

Also, since only 1 lug nut is stripped, I was thinking to go to the dealer and just get a few replacements - I need to get this fixed by this weekend for an upcoming track day and this seems like quickest option.

What is the material of the OEM nuts?

[fiveoneoh]

Originally Posted by Mr.ac

1.yes.
2.yes. Try to stick to oem length. There a whole mathematical equation on minimal thread holding power. A quick glance from my machinist handbook 3/4" is enough for most applications. Don't forget to properly torque them.
3.yes. Not sure why would you not? Unless they don't fit your wheels, or just want new bling lug nuts.

I been using some cheap-o $25 chrome lug nuts on my MR2 Turbo from O'reillys. They seen years of autox and track days and they are still good. But eh, that's just me.

What is the OEM length? Is it measured internally, from end to top of the cap? Or is it measured from the outside?

Or is there a thread length value that I should be looking for that I can use to compare across different lug nuts (e.g., at least 1" of threads, or something like that)

PS, love the machinist's handbook - it's like 4 years of engineering school crammed into 500 pages. <3

[nico_rsx]

@CSG Mike
What's your opinion on steel vs aluminium for lug nuts?
For daily(summer) + 12 autoX per year and maybe some HDPE? I swap wheels for each autoX.
What's the disadvantage of going aluminium? Are they going to cross thread easily?


OP: OEM nuts are steel.

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by Icecreamtruk

A recommendation that I never see made ... is to get aluminium lug nuts

This. I have been running 949Racing aluminum lug nuts for years with zero problems.

[ein86]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey

This. I have been running 949Racing aluminum lug nuts for years with zero problems.

Ditto. 949 lugs, impact on and off (broken free manually though), ARP studs, and generally 3 times per month for years and no issues.

[fiveoneoh]

Cool, if the OEM nuts are steel, then I don't see why I should waste money on new ones. I'll swap out the studs and just replace the nuts that got damaged and call it a day! (Unless anyone has a compelling reason not to).