Diff and subframe risers? - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

Josh Ehlert · 06-17-2016, 05:46 PM

I've been searching like hell for the last few days trying to wrap my head around these options.

My situation:
- 2013 frs on eibach sport line springs. My axle (98% sure that's what it is) has been clicking for some time now. Knowing it's going to go bad soon I started reviewing my options

1. Replace with factory axle and hope for the best
2. Replace with drive shaft shop axles and hope for the best
3. Raise the rear diff and subframe to compensate for the lowered suspension

Of these options I would think number 3. Is the most legitimate option and best long term fix. Assuming a lot of other people share this opinion I will go that route, but I have a few questions for people who have already done this.

1st, I understand there will be some welding involved, touge factory in Illinois agreed to attempt the install (they have never done it before). However I would like to know what they're going to be up against. I have seen that one person notched the rear subframe, I'm sure this was to clear his drive shaft shop axles, and this will not be required for my factory axle vehicle? Correct? I've also seen that someone has notched the subframe for "extremely lowered vehicles" also not required for my lowering spring equipped vehicle, correct?

Hopefully someone has these parts installed and can chime in.

tato.valverde · 06-17-2016, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Josh Ehlert

I've been searching like hell for the last few days trying to wrap my head around these options.

My situation:
- 2013 frs on eibach sport line springs. My axle (98% sure that's what it is) has been clicking for some time now. Knowing it's going to go bad soon I started reviewing my options

1. Replace with factory axle and hope for the best
2. Replace with drive shaft shop axles and hope for the best
3. Raise the rear diff and subframe to compensate for the lowered suspension

Of these options I would think number 3. Is the most legitimate option and best long term fix. Assuming a lot of other people share this opinion I will go that route, but I have a few questions for people who have already done this.

1st, I understand there will be some welding involved, touge factory in Illinois agreed to attempt the install (they have never done it before). However I would like to know what they're going to be up against. I have seen that one person notched the rear subframe, I'm sure this was to clear his drive shaft shop axles, and this will not be required for my factory axle vehicle? Correct? I've also seen that someone has notched the subframe for "extremely lowered vehicles" also not required for my lowering spring equipped vehicle, correct?

Hopefully someone has these parts installed and can chime in.

You might have better luck finding answers in "The Drifting Thread" under the tracking subforum, I know some people there use these (from parts shop max i believe)

Josh Ehlert · 06-17-2016, 06:19 PM

I will check that out. Thanks!

Kostamojen · 06-17-2016, 06:32 PM

You forgot option #4, try springs that don't lower the car so much. Probably cheaper than your other options as well.

Josh Ehlert · 06-17-2016, 06:40 PM

I don't feel my drop is exsessive enough to justify different springs. Is not that much lower than my wife's factory spring frs. Not to mention I like the stance of my car and raising it isn't an option for me. I'll either try to make it as correct as possible or replace the axles once a year due to premature failure. In all honesty I'm surprised they have held up this long with my trips to the strip.

Toyarzee · 06-17-2016, 06:42 PM

Those springs don't really lower the car as much as those other guys running slammed setups on coilovers. Your suspension geometry really isn't that off and this probably is a bit overkill. I don't mean to assume much, but have to ask - have you tried just either re-torque or replace the axle nut?

Josh Ehlert · 06-17-2016, 07:21 PM

I retorqued it with no luck. I did not replace the axle nut although I would have had it worked. I originally thought it was going bad because of abuse but it doesn't seem that common with stock ride height guys,, even with the guys that are boosted. Maybe I'll just replace the axle and see how long it holds up. i am not easy on my car and it was very much bought for a purpose. I'd also like DSS axles in my future and don't want to have to notch the subframe to run them.

Zer0 · 06-18-2016, 08:22 AM

If you track the car or have it lowered a lot. The risers are nice the DSS axles are nice as well for high horse power and or lowered. if you don't track the car or are not lowered significantly get a stock replacement axle. there is a sub-frame riser bushing thread I responded to as well earlier that will have more info.

06-17-2016, 05:46 PM	#1
Josh Ehlert Member Join Date: Jan 2015 Drives: Posts: 22 Thanks: 0 Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Diff and subframe risers? I've been searching like hell for the last few days trying to wrap my head around these options. My situation: - 2013 frs on eibach sport line springs. My axle (98% sure that's what it is) has been clicking for some time now. Knowing it's going to go bad soon I started reviewing my options 1. Replace with factory axle and hope for the best 2. Replace with drive shaft shop axles and hope for the best 3. Raise the rear diff and subframe to compensate for the lowered suspension Of these options I would think number 3. Is the most legitimate option and best long term fix. Assuming a lot of other people share this opinion I will go that route, but I have a few questions for people who have already done this. 1st, I understand there will be some welding involved, touge factory in Illinois agreed to attempt the install (they have never done it before). However I would like to know what they're going to be up against. I have seen that one person notched the rear subframe, I'm sure this was to clear his drive shaft shop axles, and this will not be required for my factory axle vehicle? Correct? I've also seen that someone has notched the subframe for "extremely lowered vehicles" also not required for my lowering spring equipped vehicle, correct? Hopefully someone has these parts installed and can chime in. __________________ 2013 UltraMarine Fr-S - Open flash tablet, Open flash UEL Header, Injen Intake, E85

06-17-2016, 06:19 PM	#3
Josh Ehlert Member Join Date: Jan 2015 Drives: Posts: 22 Thanks: 0 Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I will check that out. Thanks! __________________ 2013 UltraMarine Fr-S - Open flash tablet, Open flash UEL Header, Injen Intake, E85

06-17-2016, 06:40 PM	#5
Josh Ehlert Member Join Date: Jan 2015 Drives: Posts: 22 Thanks: 0 Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I don't feel my drop is exsessive enough to justify different springs. Is not that much lower than my wife's factory spring frs. Not to mention I like the stance of my car and raising it isn't an option for me. I'll either try to make it as correct as possible or replace the axles once a year due to premature failure. In all honesty I'm surprised they have held up this long with my trips to the strip. __________________ 2013 UltraMarine Fr-S - Open flash tablet, Open flash UEL Header, Injen Intake, E85

06-17-2016, 07:21 PM	#7
Josh Ehlert Member Join Date: Jan 2015 Drives: Posts: 22 Thanks: 0 Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I retorqued it with no luck. I did not replace the axle nut although I would have had it worked. I originally thought it was going bad because of abuse but it doesn't seem that common with stock ride height guys,, even with the guys that are boosted. Maybe I'll just replace the axle and see how long it holds up. i am not easy on my car and it was very much bought for a purpose. I'd also like DSS axles in my future and don't want to have to notch the subframe to run them. __________________ 2013 UltraMarine Fr-S - Open flash tablet, Open flash UEL Header, Injen Intake, E85

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06-17-2016, 06:32 PM	#4
Kostamojen Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Drives: 1993 Impreza w/ WRX Swap + FWD! Location: Roseville, CA Posts: 2,071 Thanks: 217 Thanked 952 Times in 500 Posts Mentioned: 31 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	You forgot option #4, try springs that don't lower the car so much. Probably cheaper than your other options as well.

06-17-2016, 06:42 PM	#6
Toyarzee Shibby! Join Date: Feb 2014 Drives: '14 White FR-S, '01 turbo mini taco Location: Costa Mesa, CA Posts: 647 Thanks: 838 Thanked 583 Times in 269 Posts Mentioned: 4 Post(s) Tagged: 2 Thread(s)	Those springs don't really lower the car as much as those other guys running slammed setups on coilovers. Your suspension geometry really isn't that off and this probably is a bit overkill. I don't mean to assume much, but have to ask - have you tried just either re-torque or replace the axle nut?

06-18-2016, 08:22 AM	#8
Zer0 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Drives: 2015 frs Location: Ca Posts: 511 Thanks: 426 Thanked 196 Times in 148 Posts Mentioned: 5 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	If you track the car or have it lowered a lot. The risers are nice the DSS axles are nice as well for high horse power and or lowered. if you don't track the car or are not lowered significantly get a stock replacement axle. there is a sub-frame riser bushing thread I responded to as well earlier that will have more info.

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