Brake pad and fluid install cost

[DR 86]

Bleeding is easy. Just start with the calipers farthest from the master cylinder and work your way toward the MC, ie. RR, RL, FR, FL. If you are pressed for time, have a friend pump the brakes making sure not to bottom out as you work the bleed valve. If you have lots if time, just gravity bleed. Close the valve when you see the new fluid flow out. You'll know you did it properly if there's no air in the system, which would make the pedal feel soft.

[DR 86]

Oh friendly reminder, if this is your first time at the track, you may want to do some cool down laps to get some air flow through your brakes to let them cool more evenly. I've seen people get warped/cracked rotors from not cooling down. But that was with much more high horsepower/high speed applications that generate more brake heat. Still, no harm in playing it safe. On that note, probably shouldn't pull the hand brake to park either, invest in some wheel chocks.

[F1point4]

if you want to see what is involved

take a look through this to see what all the brakes look like and where all the brake bleed screws are
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20311

Take a look through this to see how to change the front pads. The rear brakes will be taken apart in the exact same manner.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45713

Overall it is fairly easy to do yourself.

[becauseracecar1]

Thank you guys for all the help!! Very much appreciated


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[Decay107]

Originally Posted by DR 86

No need to change the fluid all the time. If you're on stock tires, you probably won't be generating enough grip and carrying enough speed into braking zones to over heat the stock brake fluid for lapping days, but I'd change the fluid to something that can withstand more heat just to be safe. After that, just change the fluid at regular maintenance intervals (sooner if you are tracking a lot) or if you ever boil the fluid. I wouldn't use track pads on the street, as you won't be able to generate enough heat on the rotors with daily driving to maintain the transfer layer of brake pad compound, and very soon after your track day you will be enjoying a symphony of squealing pigs.

Originally Posted by AZP Installs

By "track pads" what do you mean?

Also if you only have 1k miles no need to flush the brake fluid.

As was stated if you have the OEM Prius tires you won't be taxing the brakes with them. I barely taxed my brakes with STi OEM Summers and 10+ years of track experience...

-mike

I think it depends almost entirely on the track in question. Myself and a few other owners have boiled the factory fluid on stock rubber, but my local track has two long straights into heavy braking zones.

As a rule I change out brake fluid before an event if it has been in the system for more than 4 months (to get rid of any water that has been absorbed) or if it has already been through a track day (to get rid of any bubbles that may have formed in the system). If the thermochromic paint I apply to the outside of my brake rotors is accurate, I'm sitting right around 700 C on the later runs which would likely translate into some pretty crispy stock fluid (but that is on some stickier tires).

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by becauseracecar1

Ok Great!! So it would be ok for
me to just put track pads on with stock fluid for my first track day? My car is brand new, I'll be lucky if I have 1000 miles on it by Saturday(track day)

I would swap your brake fluid out to some higher boiling point fluid prior to your track day. You can easily boil OEM brake fluid regardless of how new it is.

[RedBRZ80]

Bringing back a dead thread. But hawk HP + isn't a "track pad" it's basically an aggressive street pad( good autoX pad) go with something like a CarboTech XP10 for a true track pad.

And don't pay for pad swaps, it's one bolt. (Takes longer to get all the wheels off)

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by RedBRZ80

Bringing back a dead thread. But hawk HP + isn't a "track pad" it's basically an aggressive street pad( good autoX pad) go with something like a CarboTech XP10 for a true track pad.

And don't pay for pad swaps, it's one bolt. (Takes longer to get all the wheels off)

A few notes here.

I'm running HP+ on my BRZ and all it does is see track time. Conti take-off tires, brake ducts and Eibach Prokit springs currently.

Haven't been overheating them yet, especially with the brake ducts.

As for "do it yourself" some folks don't have a place to change them, some condos for instance.

-Mike Paisan


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