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Old 04-28-2020, 09:58 PM   #15
soundman98
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Yeah if you can't get it over 14v that battery DED. Should still be able to jump start it though.

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really not the time to be trolling... he's going to blow something expensive up.

your battery is good. it should be between 12-12.5v normally, and 14.1-14.7 running depending on charging system load.
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Old 04-28-2020, 11:40 PM   #16
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really not the time to be trolling... he's going to blow something expensive up.



your battery is good. it should be between 12-12.5v normally, and 14.1-14.7 running depending on charging system load.
Ah crap sorry yeah 12. I put 24 at first thinking of airplanes. Then I "fixed" it to 14 instead of 12.

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Old 04-29-2020, 05:39 PM   #17
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No it's still the same with another battery in the key
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Old 04-29-2020, 05:49 PM   #18
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No it's still the same with another battery in the key
Ok so the first possibility is eliminated.
Have you actually load tested the car battery?
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Old 04-29-2020, 06:37 PM   #19
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Ok so the first possibility is eliminated.
Have you actually load tested the car battery?

Yes the battery showed 12.30V
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Old 04-29-2020, 10:40 PM   #20
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Yes the battery showed 12.30V
a load test is different than a voltage test.

almost all batteries will output voltage. a load test will check how much 'omph' there is in the battery. talk to your local auto parts store-- most have a battery load tester that they can use to check the condition of your battery.
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Old 05-06-2020, 05:53 PM   #21
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Load tested the battery and it's good... I did some more checks, I found that in case of a bad ground connection a car can have the same symptoms. So I found 3 ground connections and they are good, one between the coilover and the battery, one on top of the engine and one on the side of the transmission. Am I missing any?



Also I remembered going through my phone pictures, that 6 or 7 months ago I had U0122 on the OBD scan and I took a picture of it but I don't remember if it had the same issue. maybe that's related?
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Old 05-07-2020, 08:42 AM   #22
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Yes the battery showed 12.30V
I agree that your battery is probably dead. The voltage at rest should be at least 13 VDC. If you have a manual transmission, I would try to push start it. Or just jump it with a good battery. Or buy a new battery.
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Old 05-07-2020, 09:19 AM   #23
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I agree that your battery is probably dead. The voltage at rest should be at least 13 VDC. If you have a manual transmission, I would try to push start it. Or just jump it with a good battery. Or buy a new battery.

I tried pushing it with some guys and I also tried jump starting with not only one but two cars running.
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Old 05-07-2020, 10:01 AM   #24
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So
When you jump start it, does the engine turn over? That is, does the starter spin? If the starter spins and the engine doesn't start, then it's time to see the dealer.
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Old 05-07-2020, 10:11 AM   #25
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Not being able to jump start your car is strange, so maybe it’s not the battery? It might still be worth replacing the battery to eliminate that issue. A battery in poor shape could cause lots of issues.
I know other members have mentioned how quickly the battery can drain on the twins. I’ve noticed with my FR-S it likes to be driven often. (And I’m happy to drive her )


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Old 05-07-2020, 11:04 AM   #26
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Everything sounds like it is battery related. I wonder if he is trying to start with a booster cable rather than real jumper cables. After all this fooling around, just getting a new battery and clearing the code would be a good test. If still bad then a dealer would be in order.
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Old 05-07-2020, 04:34 PM   #27
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I also tried jump starting with not only one but two cars running.
Did your starter at least try to engage and crank? If yes, battery issue. If no, ...hmmm
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Old 05-07-2020, 05:03 PM   #28
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a lot of people keep mentioning battery.. I think it has been significantly tested. (in fact I would say careful on the 2 car jumping.. some mechanics would say that's dangerous for the electronics.. and rather should be trickled charged from a car or device then tried to be started.. but hey what you gonna do in a pinch)

Has starter been tested to even work? maybe the pinion is wedged.

and if the starter does work... I gotta start looking at the immobilizer issue like you are pointing too.. because that much charge on teh battery should turn it maybe not start, but with the jump definitely should crank good. Alternator is not really the hurdle even if it's the culprit to the battery. I'm wondering too, you said you turned the key really fast and so I have to wonder if it is something in the ignition cyclinder got wonkered and set off anti theft. Since you replaced battery, I don't think its the key fob itself but could be for some reason (a wonkered key can do this)

Last edited by AKITA; 05-07-2020 at 06:20 PM.
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