Engine Longevity?

[Kronos]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Where do you get your stats?

Edit: Just passed 50k miles, no powertrain issues aside from CEL related to dead coilpacks replaced myself in the driveway ~$110, ~10 hours of track time (one day it pulled double duty with two drivers), almost 2 seasons of autox.

I'm at 35k and I just fixed a coil pack on cylinder 3 that went bad. I hear they tend to go bad from excessive high engine temps if driven hard a lot.

Mine was covered under warranty tho. Toyota dealer said it would have been a $300-$400 repair as they had to lift the engine out to install the new pack. I'm mainly curious how you managed in your driveway. I have a sneaking suspicion that my service rep didn't know what he was talking about.

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by Kronos

I'm at 35k and I just fixed a coil pack on cylinder 3 that went bad. I hear they tend to go bad from excessive high engine temps if driven hard a lot.

Mine was covered under warranty tho. Toyota dealer said it would have been a $300-$400 repair as they had to lift the engine out to install the new pack. I'm mainly curious how you managed in your driveway. I have a sneaking suspicion that my service rep didn't know what he was talking about.

You only need to jack the motor a little bit, and some say you can do it without though I have no idea how.

[techie182]

Originally Posted by BlaineWasHere

Then why does Hyundai have BY FAR the best warranty in the industry? I'm guessing they aren't loosing money fixing broken cars, they are making money not fixing anything.

But yeah "someone" is always a good source of info. BTW someone told me the ocean is green and the sky is blue! And the GT86 is a Subaru, not a Toyota.

Hyundai arent that good on reliability. We own one and its keep breaking down one by one. Read fine prints. Hyundai and Kia offers 10 yr powertrain LIMITED warranty that covers only half and its not transferable. Plus resale value is so bad we decided to keep it as backup car. Bought it for 25k and worth only 6k after 4 yrs(camry and accord from same time period was worth well over 10k). Alot of Korean Americans avoid Hyundai and Kia(no Korean cars in Korea town).

So far our family had good luck with Japanese cars. We drove our Accord to 200k with just oil/tire change before selling it to neighbor and bro has 350z with 180k miles.
Had bad luck with german and korean cars. My BMW was reliable but keeping up with maintenance was expensive even with aftermarket parts.
I have faith on my FRS that its going to last over 200k with my driving habit(i rarely go over 3k rpm).

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

[nikitopo]

Originally Posted by Jfheisenberg

When people say the engine should be fine as long as you dont ABUSE it, what does that mean????

I do the proper maintenance on my 2015 brz, add good quality oil and do regular changes and have not have any problems after a year and a half... I trash the shxt out of this car, meaning that, every opportunity i have i like to shift gears at high RPMs (not red line it too much tough)

Don't believe too much the internet. The majority of people are driving their cars without any issues and never made complaints. In fact these engines were designed to hold a bit more abuse than ordinary cars. They are not racing engines, but they were designed to withstand an occasional racing event of 5 laps cycles. We need statistics and a good sample to calculate the actual failure of non modified engines. If you modify the car to get more power either with FI or with different headers and modified AFR's in ECU etc., then it is another story. Without changing the engine internals, you are pushing it to its limits and you lose on durability and on life expectancy. Good maintenance, reasonable driving and keep it fairly stock(*) is the key point to have a healthy engine.


(*) There are some smart modifications that cannot do any harm. For example, to remove weight from the car by using lighter components. The latter can improve also the handling

[PeterFRS]

i think like many have mentioned in this thread, not many complain / post a thread that their engines are performing good and driving fine..
myself included, oil changes as per recommended intervals, air filter, trans/diff fluid change is all i have done so far at 60k km's. and she's driving fine knock on wood.
Also "generally" Korean cars aren't very reliable, but some of them come out good in that in that our family had 2008 kia sportage v6 that lasted 360,000km with a few timing belt changes, plugs, alternators, etc etc

so my point is... i am bored and yes I think it "could" last us 200k like OP asked. lol

[guybo]

http://www.truedelta.com/Scion-FR-S/reliability-1096

http://www.truedelta.com/Subaru-BRZ/reliability-1097

Looks like they are doing well according to user driven data at Truedelta.

[FRS Justin]

Originally Posted by MrDinkleman

Interesting thread. I haven't read through the whole thing but I often wonder about it as well because this engine makes all kinds of weird noises:
1. crickets
2. sounds like it's going to die when I coast to a stop
3. switches between sounding like a diesel to a normal gas engine at idle
4. sometimes DI (?) clatters
5. not very smooth when accelerating


Also, It uses more oil (2/3 qt per 4k miles) than even my 140,000mile Yaris did. And lately, it's been backfiring as well, under certain throttle conditions.


Like someone early on in the thread said, I wish they had just thrown in a Toyota engine for the Scion version; a 3SGE would have been nice. They made a similar 200hp in the first gen Altezza RS200.

Check your pcv

[FRS Justin]

Originally Posted by guybo

http://www.truedelta.com/Scion-FR-S/reliability-1096

http://www.truedelta.com/Subaru-BRZ/reliability-1097

Looks like they are doing well according to user driven data at Truedelta.

Their is a huge difference between the FRS and the BRZ engine complaints in 2013.....Strange......

[Nah]

Originally Posted by FRS Justin

Check your pcv

or get a tune.... Haha

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by FRS Justin

Their is a huge difference between the FRS and the BRZ engine complaints in 2013.....Strange......

People gave up reporting crickets. The problem lies in that these reports don't break down the stats by actual problem. We don't know what complaints were for a noise or a blown engine and these things are worlds apart in impact.
They also put every single complaint against "reliability' and things like a clicking rear support may be really annoying but in no way affect the reliability of the vehicle.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Kronos

I'm at 35k and I just fixed a coil pack on cylinder 3 that went bad. I hear they tend to go bad from excessive high engine temps if driven hard a lot.

Mine was covered under warranty tho. Toyota dealer said it would have been a $300-$400 repair as they had to lift the engine out to install the new pack. I'm mainly curious how you managed in your driveway. I have a sneaking suspicion that my service rep didn't know what he was talking about.

That's what the service manual tells them to do to change spark plugs, access is not as critical for the coil pack, I didn't even touch my jack to do it you can reach all four from the top.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=93

Here's one post with pics, there's more info in the thread.

The quote doesn't sound too rediculous, the part is about $110 and two hours to lift, disassemble, reassemble, test drive, plus a little markup and boom $300.

Getting a socket in to get the spark plugs is a little tougher, but with the correct set of joints and extensions people have replaced the spark plugs without lifting the engine.

I may have been able to get mine covered under warranty, but after calling four dealerships only one would actually talk to me on the phone about the problem, the rest said just bring it in without discussing the issue, and then it would take at least two trips to replace IF they agreed it needed to be replaced at a minimum of 4 hours of my time (dealership wasn't close, time sitting there waiting for a verdict etc.) Then I'd have to return after they ordered the part waiting for it to arrive, and I had a sneaking suspicion they would say, oh it's fine now come back when it appears again which wouldn't do me any good if it didn't show up until my next track day. So I decided to just buy it online and diy.

[Shinigami301]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Where do you get your stats?

Edit: Just passed 50k miles, no powertrain issues aside from CEL related to dead coilpacks replaced myself in the driveway ~$110, ~10 hours of track time (one day it pulled double duty with two drivers), almost 2 seasons of autox.

Sources:

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/...10-brands.html

http://www.reliabilityindex.com/manufacturer/Engine

https://www.mainstreet.com/article/1...in-2014/page/3

http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/news/mis...ility-ratings/

There are many more.

[MrDinkleman]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Meh. The noises just scream boxer and port vs direct injection but I am interested in your oil loss. I have not lost a drop in 92K miles and I push my changes to the limit. I really had not heard of any post 13s losing oil. Any idea where it is coming out? I am also clatter free and still accelerating smoothly.

I wouldn't care about the DI noise except my Yaris had DI (but not PI) and it wasn't this noisy.

Originally Posted by FRS Justin

Check your pcv

I only have 24k miles on it so never thought about that. I'll check it out.

[Icecreamtruk]

Originally Posted by finch1750

You only need to jack the motor a little bit, and some say you can do it without though I have no idea how.

Im changing coil pack A (cilinder 1, passanger front side), you can do the right side by removing the unit on top of it (3 bolts, dont need to disconnect it, just place it aside) and then with a ratchet you can reach them. Driver side rear one is silly easy, you can do it without taking anything off, I dont know for driver front one tho.

On a side note, relating to OP. Close to 30k miles, 4 years and around 20 track days (2-3 hours of track time per day), my very first problem just poped up last week, which is the coil pack im replacing today. There arent many cars that can take a beating like that. its my daily drive btw, and I use it on winter, I just dont have too much road to get to work but it has seen its fair share of 2feet+ snowtorms (fun times drifting on the snow, best car I've had for it so far).