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Old 05-22-2013, 04:44 PM   #43
wparsons
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As far as I'm aware, there is no brushless ESC that is capable of running a brushed motor.
The ESC (Tekin RS Pro) in my 22T can run a brushed or brushless motor, and will run in both sensored and sensorless mode even with the sensor cable connected (sensorless is actually more efficient at higher RPM).

There's no reason to bother putting a brushless motor (especially a higher kv one) into a drift car, you'll never get traction to make any use of the power.

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Tamiya provides inner light housings with all their bodies. They are just that though, housings. They have to be modified to be used as light buckets.
Not all their bodies, I had to make all the light housings in my M3





[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkUaxPE3sQw"]Tamiya TT-01ED - BMW M3 - YouTube[/ame]

It's a TT-01 ED, has two sets of headlights (low and high beam, but same bulbs so it's just more bulbs on for highs), fog lights, turn signals front and rear, tail lights, brake lights and reverse lights. If you stop for a few seconds the turn signals flash as hazard lights.
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Old 05-22-2013, 05:06 PM   #44
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Wow. Well if you don't learn something new everyday, then you're doing something wrong. I never new that there were br/bl ESCs.

Your M3 looks sick!




I'm not going to have to kill anyone anymore. The glue cleared up to the point where I can barely see it.
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Old 05-22-2013, 05:20 PM   #45
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Love that replica maybe I should make one
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEzcum__sCA&feature=youtube_gdata_player"]URAS Toyota GT86 D1 Replica r:c Drift Car - YouTube[/ame]
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Old 05-22-2013, 05:24 PM   #46
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Here's the details of the ESC in my 22T:

http://www.teamtekin.com/rs_gen1.html

They're not cheap by any means, a motor/ESC is easily $275. I run mine in "dual drive" mode so it runs sensored at low RPM and sensorless at high RPM.

Found some night pictures:



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Old 05-22-2013, 06:21 PM   #47
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So... 4wd vs 2wd? (drifting)

Seems sacrilege to me to run a 4wd fr-s. I never setup a drift RC though, and it seems like 90% of chassis are 4wd. Can you still countersteer and whatnot with a 4wd RC?

Mine is mostly going to be run on crappy pavement/driveway, and sometimes concrete, so maybe 4wd is just better for these small cars?

Also, do you guys think I should go 1/10 scale or 1/18? I prefer 1/18 scale as I used to have an old 1/18 scale buggy that I loved, and a lot of my drifting areas are going to be small & compact so I tend to think 1/18 is better for that situation. Are there any decent mini drift chassis?
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:50 PM   #48
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4wd allows you to put power down to the road. At this scale, these cars have ridiculous power. For drifting, 4wd doesn't really allow you to counter steer, unless your rear wheels are spinning faster. Power to the front wheels helps pull you through the corners when drifting. What real drifters do is run a "counter steer kit" in their cars. All it is is a differently geared drive train. The most common kits are a 1.5 and 2. This is 1.5 rear rotations for every 1 front rotation and likewise for the 2. This allows for counter steering. I've only seen 2wd drifting on carpet, but like what was mentioned above, the perfect setup and surface is needed as well as a ton of skill or else you will just spin out in place all day.

1/10 is the most common scale. You can find nearly any body/shell you want. The choice of wheels, tires, suspension parts, and more are way greater than any other scale.

If you are worried about space, a locked rear diff will let you spin in place. It also increases the stability (predictability) of the car.
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:56 PM   #49
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Quote:
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4wd allows you to put power down to the road. At this scale, these cars have ridiculous power. For drifting, 4wd doesn't really allow you to counter steer, unless your rear wheels are spinning faster. Power to the front wheels helps pull you through the corners when drifting. What real drifters do is run a "counter steer kit" in their cars. All it is is a differently geared drive train. The most common kits are a 1.5 and 2. This is 1.5 rear rotations for every 1 front rotation and likewise for the 2. This allows for counter steering. I've only seen 2wd drifting on carpet, but like what was mentioned above, the perfect setup and surface is needed as well as a ton of skill or else you will just spin out in place all day.

1/10 is the most common scale. You can find nearly any body/shell you want. The choice of wheels, tires, suspension parts, and more are way greater than any other scale.

If you are worried about space, a locked rear diff will let you spin in place. It also increases the stability (predictability) of the car.
Awesome thank you! That's really cool about the drive train gear ratios, never thought of that.
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:40 PM   #50
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This thread just inspired me to finish building my tamiya BRZ.

Thanks @boredom.is.me
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:34 AM   #51
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This thread just inspired me to finish building my tamiya BRZ.

Thanks @boredom.is.me
Awesome to hear. Post a pic or two from the build and when it's done.
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:03 AM   #52
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i love it. i used to build a lot of 1/5 scale trucks, they were a lot of fun.

you, sir, need a 3d printer. they're awesome for the rc stuff. PM me if you want one i have a few extra Printrbot parts kits laying around.
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:07 AM   #53
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Your on the front page

Looking good.. Got to get mines up to like yours pro status but right now I have my buggies to maintain big race coming

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Old 05-23-2013, 11:34 AM   #54
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Awesome!
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:45 AM   #55
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It came out a tap darker than I thought it would. I don't think that's a bad thing though.

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Sent from my mind using telepathy.
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:52 AM   #56
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Putting led fog lights? Don't they have a amber LED? That will look good
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