05-13-2013, 01:15 PM | #1345 |
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FYI- There is no default "ideal track camber". It is a driver/team preference. 2 degrees isn't that much for a track application. FR-S or otherwise.
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05-13-2013, 01:44 PM | #1346 |
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Tried to take a blind pic from under the car... Shitty pic but i think its better than nothing. I drew a red arrow to show the lip of the perch, these were taken from below/behind the front wheel. The rim lip is level with the perch height wise.
(18 9.5 +38 rim on front driver) |
05-13-2013, 02:18 PM | #1347 | ||
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To an extent, yes it is driver preference, but it is more about ideal tire wear and your driving behaviour. Example, if you are running -3 camber and dropped but not doing autocross, corner carving or track days, you will just wear out the inside of your tires prematurely. Even in my daily driving, I tend to take corners more at speed so the camber is welcome. For looks and track performance combined. If these were only track wheels, for sure I would only run 17x9 +35 RPF1's. So I wanted a nice set of wheels and like the 18" size as it "fits" the car well in terms of looks. But since I went with 18" I made sure the wheels were not heavy at all and my tire/wheel combo is still 1/2 pound lighter per corner despite going up in size and much wider wheels and rubber. Quote:
Camber bolts are your friend, lowering springs or coilovers give you the extra camber you need while also providing stiffer springs (depending how well you choose). |
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05-13-2013, 02:26 PM | #1348 | |
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A quick way I used to measure it (cause it's really hard to read accurately off a measuring tape) is to try a variety of metric allen keys between the two pieces. That is of course if you don't already have measuring calipers. I ended up with 8mm between rim and perch after camber bolts and alignment. Before camber bolts I had 12mm. On an 18x9 +35 wheel. |
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05-13-2013, 02:50 PM | #1349 | |
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05-13-2013, 03:21 PM | #1350 | |
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Btw, was looking at the pics thinking "the wheels look green? Is that just the flash?" Then I looked at your avatar. You should post a pic. |
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05-13-2013, 03:28 PM | #1351 |
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The thing with my current set up, the fronts poke by a bit.
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05-13-2013, 03:32 PM | #1352 | |
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05-13-2013, 03:51 PM | #1353 | |
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05-13-2013, 03:52 PM | #1354 |
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When can you say that its too much camber for a DD and backroads driving?
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05-13-2013, 03:55 PM | #1355 |
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Thanks! Im hoping to get a pair of 8.5+44 to throw up front (square tires though) and eventually suspension, tho my budget took a hit as im buying a new house this month
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05-13-2013, 04:17 PM | #1356 | |
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But realistically for this purpose, -1 to -1.5 is a good camber setting for this car. Cars with softer suspension that lean alot can benefit from extra camber as it keeps the outer tires contact patch squarer to the pavement. With our cars low centre of gravity, it does not naturally lean as much, but additional camber will still give you more "stick". So to answer your question, probably -2.5 or more is too much for a daily driver, unless you are trying to pull in an aggressive wheel/tire fitment with some camber. IMO |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Slick For This Useful Post: | JackSmiley (05-13-2013) |
05-13-2013, 04:33 PM | #1357 | |
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05-13-2013, 04:51 PM | #1358 |
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Imho, "too much camber" is when the amount of camber > the amount of camber to benefit the handling of the car. I dont personally care for the look of an over cambered car, and would only run more than -1 if it improved the handling for that specific track/car. But thats just me.
For example, heres the most camber ive ever run Was about -.6 i think, -2" springs, 19x8 +38 with 235 tires |
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fitment, flush, offset, rays volk te37's, rims, rotas, size, spacers, width |
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