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Old 02-09-2013, 10:59 PM   #29
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I was not expecting that outcome at all. But the Pin Flare pulled out a win.
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Old 02-09-2013, 11:06 PM   #30
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I was not expecting that outcome at all. But the Pin Flare pulled out a win.
Blah blah.. Lets go to streets of willow and really put them to the test lol
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Old 02-09-2013, 11:36 PM   #31
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Blah blah.. Lets go to streets of willow and really put them to the test lol
well lets do it!
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Old 02-10-2013, 12:42 AM   #32
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The AT is so much slower because of the double overdrive (5th/6th gears), and some slight tuning differences in the top end. The manual has only one overdrive gear. However, they both have the same 4.10 gears stock.

Once someone comes out with a set of 4.5X gears for the auto and some valvebody/torque converter options...then it should be more even.
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Old 02-10-2013, 12:55 AM   #33
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That all depends on the transmission and driving style. A lot of drag racers prefer an auto Trans because it can shift faster than a human can. A manual is better for smaller motors on tighter courses to keep the rpm high and carry speed

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Old 02-10-2013, 01:02 AM   #34
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I wanna see more AT mods!

I love the AT in this car, only other good AT under 30K range that can compete with it is the VW GTI AT (Wish we had a throttle blip when we downshifted). After that, dare i say it can compete with more luxury/sportier automatics at around 50K.
Don't know if you noticed but the AT is our cars rev match on downshifts.

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first race.. from about 5mph



second race some where in second gear for both of us



his is stock. mine has a greddy evo3 exhaust, injen intake, and perrin LW pulley. also both fuel tanks were around the same.
Are you in the red car?
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:11 AM   #35
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I thought the AT and MT were almost the same....its when you drop the clutch in the MT is were you see a 0 to 60 diff.
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:14 AM   #36
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Probably has more to do with running E85. Launching AT? Hold down the brake until just before the emergency assisted braking kicks in (which will limit your revs), rev it up to 5000 rpm, simultaneously release brake and floor the throttle.
I know he's not running e85 yet...bc he has the unichip.
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:35 AM   #37
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Are you in the red car?
Pin is in the red car.. That's the manual.. I'm in my asphalt




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Old 02-10-2013, 01:41 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonewolf View Post
The AT is so much slower because of the double overdrive (5th/6th gears), and some slight tuning differences in the top end. The manual has only one overdrive gear. However, they both have the same 4.10 gears stock.

Once someone comes out with a set of 4.5X gears for the auto and some valvebody/torque converter options...then it should be more even.
The Cusco 4.55 RCE is testing is good for either trans. Diff is the same.
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:46 AM   #39
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This is on a tangent, but have any of you guys noticed that when do a sharp turn or u-turn at very low or slow speeds the diff/LSD makes some noise and feel a bit rough? Or is it just me or my car?
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:50 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoomzoomers View Post
This is on a tangent, but have any of you guys noticed that when do a sharp turn or u-turn at very low or slow speeds the diff/LSD makes some noise and feel a bit rough? Or is it just me or my car?

I'm sure it's just the dif working.. My dads dodge truck with some sort of LSD would have the tires squalling and chirping and then finally start skipping when in a low speed u turn because under power his locked the diff..

I'd assume with ours it's trying to prevent one wheel from "slipping" because one wheel is turning a lot more then the other.. Isn't that how our diffs work.. Lock up or activate when one wheel spins faster then the other
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:54 AM   #41
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Pin is in the red car.. That's the manual.. I'm in my asphalt




Great looking cars, guys.
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:00 AM   #42
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Quote:
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I'm sure it's just the dif working.. My dads dodge truck with some sort of LSD would have the tires squalling and chirping and then finally start skipping when in a low speed u turn because under power his locked the diff..

I'd assume with ours it's trying to prevent one wheel from "slipping" because one wheel is turning a lot more then the other.. Isn't that how our diffs work.. Lock up or activate when one wheel spins faster then the other
You're correct in how a diff works, but I'm referring to what's called binding. Sorry, I should have clarified.

I've noticed that the diff seems to show signs, via sound and feel, of binding when I'm at low speeds and do a sharp turn or a u-turn.
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