Oil Cooler kit for FI applications, getting one?

[JP]

Originally Posted by RYU

Glad you chimed in. +1 on the Setrab units. I'll probably use the Mocal sandwich plate but not sure if I can use AN10 fittings/hoses with that yet. There's the new slip fit high pressure hose people use these days but the lack of a fastener scares me. You have good luck with these?

You can see the slip-fit fittings i'm talking about here. It's the black hose butted up against the plastic collar on the AN10 elbow fitting.

It's recommended to use clamps on pushlock hose and fittings when they're used in systems that may experience a pressure surge.

I've used pushlock lines and fittings for my oil cooler setups for the past 5+ years with no issues. It's easy to get -10 fittings for the mocal pates.

see the note on this page: http://mscn.com.au/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=49

* We recommend using Pushlock Clamps to ensure the hose does not come off if a pressure spike occurs! This is most important in oil sytems!

I tend to use Aeroquip hose on my setups, purchased from Summit in the large rolls.

The clamps are also pretty cheap: http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...sh-lock-clamps

[Xdragonxb0i]

Originally Posted by Stealthx

If you track or mod the car, there is NO negative to an oil cooler. There are only positives. It helps your engine in general to stay cooler and have a better life expectancy when it's being thrashed on. And if your boosted, it aam cools engine and possibly turbo oil etc. for the most part, I would say fab your on. Don't be scared, it's extremely simple. And it will save a lot f money. Mostly you an also have higher quality parts and lines and cooler core like setrab for instance. Don't skimp on an extremely effective and reliability parts of the car/build. Pm me if anyone needs info of what they need or where to get pars. I've built plenty of them for all my cars, most notably the 370z which everyone knows ran very hot.

Sounds like we need an DIY

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Stealthx

If you track or mod the car, there is NO negative to an oil cooler. .....

Originally Posted by Xdragonxb0i

Sounds like we need an DIY

Exactly!!! I'd venture into getting parts and fabbing up one, but with the assistance of a DIY. (Well, that wouldn't be really fabbing one up more like copying one up )

[diss7]

Originally Posted by robispec

here is the BEST solution...
system out of the car





can use stock A/C with this.
NO cutting plastec to mount
Cold air over the top as needed
STOCK mounting points used
OVER TRIPLE THE COOLING CAPACITY and an extra Qt of engine oil.
takes 2 hours to install
total system cost Radiator oilcooler takeoff plates hoses, an fittings, fans
EVERYTHING INCLUDED for John Q Public to install $1,195.00
Will be doing a Group buy soon..

Robi

Simple. Effective. Want.

[Stealthx]

I'll try and put together a DIY when I get back stateside. Currently in Japan for a few months. If I can out together a DIY of parts etc i could possibly do that as I have detail pics of the other cars. But none of the 86. That will have to wait for my return.

[Stealthx]

Originally Posted by RYU

Glad you chimed in. +1 on the Setrab units. I'll probably use the Mocal sandwich plate but not sure if I can use AN10 fittings/hoses with that yet. There's the new slip fit high pressure hose people use these days but the lack of a fastener scares me. You have good luck with these?

You can see the slip-fit fittings i'm talking about here. It's the black hose butted up against the plastic collar on the AN10 elbow fitting.

Mocal is my other recommendation as well as Earl's. They are great, I just failed to detail that in post. I know other units work, even really cheap ones. I'm just a stickler on quality, and I've been there many times and wished I just went "all out" per say. The new push together lines work just fine, the normal A/N fittings can be a pain you never built them. Some companies and suppliers will icily them for you, you just need to know dimensions etc.
Nt sure if this is against forum rooms so apologies in advance, but racer parts whole sales sells pretty much everything you need. I'm not trying to put down anyone's kits or vendors so again apologies if taken that way.

With a lot of aircraft mechanic/maintenance back ground, I've seen a lot. And try to portray that into how I do this stuff in the cars. One thing you can think of too is depending on line size also dictates for one volume but most importantly oil pressure. And the other thing I like to mention is hose movement/chaffing. Axel style clamps are the best but finding places to actually bolt the to is a pain some times. Also never ever use any type of zip ties or cable ties. I seen them cut through or rub through hoses many times. And the goal is to maintain hose movement. The hoses vibrate hundreds or thousands of times per minute while driving and worse on track. Keep them wrapped up.
Oh we'll, that's my random two cents. Feel free to PM me questions as I have no Problem assisting as much as I can a fellow car enthusiast.

Cheers...

[diss7]

Just a note to all, remember oil temperature works both ways. Oil can be too cool!

Don't even think of getting an oil/air cooling system with out a thermostat, especially if you live in a cold climate!

For this reason, is why I like the system Robi is developing. It helps get the oil upto operatiing temperature on cold starts. This is going to reduce start up wear, which at the end of the day, is where most engine wear occurs on most street engines.

That's why Taxi's are able to get 500,000+ km's on petrol motors, most of them only start them once a day = much less wear from cold starting vs actual motor hours

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Stealthx

Mocal is my other recommendation as well as Earl's. They are great, I just failed to detail that in post....

Are there any other real alternatives for relocating the oil cooler to not be right in front of the intercooler? What if I put it to as much to one side as I can will it help?

[Stealthx]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Are there any other real alternatives for relocating the oil cooler to not be right in front of the intercooler? What if I put it to as much to one side as I can will it help?

Sorry for keep replying. This is just one of my things I like to do as supporting mods are usually the most important as well is sometimes the most over looked.

It shouldn't effect the inter cooler at all, unless your like all out racing for a good amount of time. Seen this on the 370z set up a lot, no issues to either air inlet temps or oil cooler, also you can have one to the side like the Evos for instance allowing maximum air to inter cooler, but you need adequate ducting or inlet air to the oil cooler, or a fan. I've also seen dual core set ups where two smaller cores are used one on each side or piggy back. Those require a good amount of pluming.


As per the oil temp being too cold. Very true. Engines should only be run at the minimum operating temperature.
Most engines gain wear on parts on initial start up as most oil is down, and the oil is also cooler and not at the viscosity as per operating temp.
Question i ask is how many of you truly warm your engine up? I doubt 10% of owners truly do, and by that I mean having oil at 165+ degrees F before going on a drive, and getting on it? I know I've been guilty to that more then anything.
So warm your engines up! It helps to get them in their operating temperature.

Here is a a website that has a chart of oil ratings and temps as well as life of engine/parts per temp rating. http://www.elephantracing.com/techto...emperature.htm

Easy fix. Research oil. I know manufacturers state certain weights etc. most also add in the manuals the code or grade of issuable oil. For example, 5w30, the beginning number is your weight when cold... All 0w30 can be substituted for cold start up protection/viscosity. Also, easy fix is of course a thermostat sandwich plate or inline. Understand though at cold temps the thermostat plate/inline adapter still allows 10-20% to continue to pass as to not shock your engine when opening up with a few liters of cold oil. Also core design can lead to this. For example the best kit built and used on the 370z used the largest 172 size core from setrab and AE made a kit. It didn't use a thermostat at all the design of the kit and volume it gave as well as flow characteristics allowed oil to heat up easy enough and also kept it cool even when abused on 100+ degree days. I've personally had no issues after a 5-10 minute warm up in drive way had oil at 165-180degree F in 10 degree winter weather.

Stay safe.

[rice_classic]

Take an oil cooler radiator, run 250F fluid through it then blow air @ 50-130mph through it and measure the temperature of the air before and after it flows through the radiator fins.

How much temperature does the air pick up as it flows past the fins at 50mph? @80mph? @100mph?

I'd actually like to measure this as I hypothesize that the temperature change is rather small and smaller yet the faster the air moves. And part B of the hypothesis is that the act of putting the oil cooler radiator in front of the FMIC will have only a minimal impact in the efficiency of the FMIC (regarding temp) assuming the "flow" is unaffected.

[RYU]

@Stealthx - great contribution. thank you.

Has anyone noticed a drop in oil pressure from going with AN8 lines intead of AN10? I normally would like to go AN10 but I found a sandwich plate with a built-in thermostat however it is only available with AN8 lines.

Also, the oil-being-too-cold issue is not so much of a problem with today's multi-weight oil but I still prefer to run a thermostat - Just personal preference.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by RYU

@Stealthx - great contribution. thank you.

Has anyone noticed a drop in oil pressure from going with AN8 lines intead of AN10? I normally would like to go AN10 but I found a sandwich plate with a built-in thermostat however it is only available with AN8 lines.

Also, the oil-being-too-cold issue is not so much of a problem with today's multi-weight oil but I still prefer to run a thermostat - Just personal preference.

Replace fittings? A lot cheaper than the mocal otherwise maybe not worth it?

And DIY will be coming soon.

[Huehuecoyotl]

Can someone clarify, the koyorad does NOT have an integrated oil cooler section right?(prefer them separate)

[Supermassive]

Originally Posted by Huehuecoyotl

Can someone clarify, the koyorad does NOT have an integrated oil cooler section right?(prefer them separate)

The koyo radiator is just a radiator, no oil cooler.

http://www.titanmotorsports.com/korafr2.html