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Old 10-22-2012, 11:03 AM   #15
DarkSunrise
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My experience with the reflash:

- Power feels the same
- Idle feels irregular every once in a while
- Only in 1st gear, the engine rpms drop VERY slowly from 1500 --> 650 (if in gear and braking, you can feel the throttle fight the brakes)
- Tachometer seems off under 1000 rpm if you free-rev the engine (i.e., you can see it jumping around non-sensically)

Overall though, these are all minor complaints. The car drives well and no CEL.
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:39 AM   #16
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those of you refering to a 'reflash'
are you sure its not an actual ecu swap?
I mean, my ecu's part number ends in 810 iirc
then there was 811
now 812
sound smore like a new ecu than a reflash, or do they slap a new sticker on it or something? or does thge ecu in the cars with the "812 flash" stick have a physical sticker that reads xxxx*810?


thanks in advance for any clarification
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:47 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tricky1980 View Post
for the most part I think its the exact same before and aftrr'.... My issue is about 5% of the time I have a real bad bog and lack of acceleration down low from stop or almost stop...def no slow rolling start in 2nd gear......
I could have sworn I read somewhere in the owner's manual that it stated you should not try to drive the car from a complete stop in 2nd gear...
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:59 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmookher View Post
those of you refering to a 'reflash'
are you sure its not an actual ecu swap?
I mean, my ecu's part number ends in 810 iirc
then there was 811
now 812
sound smore like a new ecu than a reflash, or do they slap a new sticker on it or something? or does thge ecu in the cars with the "812 flash" stick have a physical sticker that reads xxxx*810?


thanks in advance for any clarification
It's probably the reflash. Dealerships will most likely attempt to reflash the vehicle before going out and ordering a new ECU, that'll cost them money. A reflash on the other hand, costs them nothing or significantly less than a brand new part.
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10/01/2012 FR-S down for P0019 code. Received vehicle back from dealership with a new ECU 10/30/2012
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Old 10-29-2012, 05:07 PM   #19
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Sounds about right. The computer needs to run checks after being discharged for any changes in the system so it runs safe. After some miles (its either 16 or 32) full power comes back. All Subarus do it.
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eurasianman View Post
I could have sworn I read somewhere in the owner's manual that it stated you should not try to drive the car from a complete stop in 2nd gear...
He said slow rolling start from second, aka a California Stop.
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:54 AM   #21
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He said slow rolling start from second, aka a California Stop.
He threw an 'or' in the statement
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:39 PM   #22
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THIS IS FOR THOSE WITH ECU REPLACEMENTS:

Okay these are both corrected (SAE) and uncorrected (actual) dyno graphs.

It was around noon with temps around 65F/18C
Humidity around 73% 30.19 Pressure dew point 58F

Uncorrected

Corrected


ECU WAS REPLACED with SU003-04522 Idle tables have been smooth at 650rpm for the last 500 Miles never got an idle dip. before this ecu I had a CEL p0017 and a very rough idle dipping to 400ish at times

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ju05_sbsgQE"]http://www.youtube.com/embed/Ju05_sbsgQE</iframe>[/ame]


I should have asked for a cookie first
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Old 11-01-2012, 05:23 PM   #23
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I had dyno today, posted results on unofficial cel issue page. No cel for me since flash cuz the cam repair sure as hell didn't fix it


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