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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ

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Old 09-20-2012, 02:32 AM   #1
Filipino Royale
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Talking Motul fluids

Hi guys, been reading a lot of things that the oem fluids on our precious cars aren't that good, so been searching for the whole package to change all the fluids.

Here's my list for Motul.

Engine: Motul 8100 xcess 5w40

Brake: Motul DOT 3/4

Transmission: Motul Gear 300 75w90

Diffential: Motul Gear Comp 75w140.


I'm oPen for all suggestions and comments.

Thank you.
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:53 AM   #2
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Read the oil label and tell me what it says...
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Old 09-20-2012, 03:26 AM   #3
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i thought motul brake fluid was a dot 4?

Why not use motul 300v instead of 8100? and why 5w-40?

the toyota oem 0w-20 is probably one of the best for cold starts so oil preference can change depending on what type of driving you do the most.

Do you track the car? Motul is pretty expensive if it's never going to be pushed.
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Old 09-20-2012, 03:44 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Filipino Royale View Post
Hi guys, been reading a lot of things that the oem fluids on our precious cars aren't that good, so been searching for the whole package to change all the fluids.

Here's my list for Motul.

Engine: Motul 8100 xcess 5w40

Brake: Motul DOT 3/4

Transmission: Motul Gear 300 75w90

Diffential: Motul Gear Comp 75w140.


I'm oPen for all suggestions and comments.

Thank you.
I disagree with your choice of motor oil, unless youre trolling, which I think you are, do a search on motor oil, and find one other recommendation for 5w-40 before embarrassing yourself, or wasting anyones time

I think you should explain why motul 75w90 is a good lube for my tranny. whats its cSt?

I think you couldnt choose a worse diff oil. I use that in my truck that weighs 6000 lbs

You brake oil choice appears vague. dot 3? dot 4? whats your target boil temp?
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:38 AM   #5
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Yeah, I really hope you're not serious with this... If so, you need to do a lot more research before changing any of your oils/fluids. Thicker does not equal better. And Motul isn't the best in the world at everything. And read your owner's manual.

BTW, I just saw this on their website: http://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/632

It's a 0W-15 oil... Apparently, there are 0W-10 and 0W-15 oils out there now, albeit only recommended for short term runs.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:14 AM   #6
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...way too thick on the gear oil. There is no need for 75W140 in this car.
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Old 09-20-2012, 10:10 AM   #7
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Use 0W20 300V or 8100 Eco-lite for the engine. Do a 0W-30 (8100) or 5W-30 (300V) if the car has forced induction.

Gear300 75W90 for the transmission and rear end

RBF600 or RBF660 brake fluid, or Castrol SRF (if your a real baller @ $65 a liter)

Last edited by No Limit Motorsport; 10-13-2013 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Filipino Royale View Post
Hi guys, been reading a lot of things that the oem fluids on our precious cars aren't that good
When it comes to 0w-20 oil, Toyota is one of the highest recommended on oil forums.
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:15 PM   #9
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Personally, I think I'll be running Amsoil throughout.

Motor oil: 0w-20 ASM
Brake: Series 500 DOT3 or Series 600 DOT4
Transmission: SVG 75-90
Diff: SVG 75-90
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Last edited by diirk; 09-20-2012 at 02:56 PM.
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:39 PM   #10
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Whats the difference between the 300v and the 8100? I noticed the 300v isn't much more expensive but is it overkill for non track use?
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:42 PM   #11
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Whats the difference between the 300v and the 8100? I noticed the 300v isn't much more expensive but is it overkill for non track use?
It is grossly overkill.
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:49 PM   #12
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It is grossly overkill.
Thanks i'll stick with the 8100 then.:happy0180:
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Old 09-20-2012, 02:59 PM   #13
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Price difference is only about $10. But I'm not really sure about the differences.

There's a package deal thaat was recently listed that looks like a good deal.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17759
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Old 09-20-2012, 03:37 PM   #14
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The 300V has higher levels of anti-wear additives like zinc and phosphorus than 8100 and very high levels of the friction modifier moly. The new 300V ester core actually has reduced levels of calcium (detergent) because they're focusing more on being a track oil and less on extended drains for the street.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2742759

300V is also made with ester base stocks. I probably wouldn't run the new ester core much past 4,000 miles without a used oil analysis.

Quote:
Originally Posted by No Limit Motorsport View Post
Gear300 75W90 for the transmission and rear end
Why would you recommend a GL5 for the transmission? Isn't GL3/4 speced?

-Dennis
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