CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[RToyo86]

Originally Posted by N_Raged

That's what I was afraid of, but the fronts look normal like photos of actual tS' from the factory. The rear is a whole inch higher than the front with enough fender gap for my fist lol.

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Was everything tightened down while the control arm was under load?

[BlueWhelan]

Originally Posted by N_Raged

That's what I was afraid of, but the fronts look normal like photos of actual tS' from the factory. The rear is a whole inch higher than the front with enough fender gap for my fist lol.


That could just be due to old tired suspension sagging over time.

Nah. Had pretty fresh PP spring/dampers before that. Bout 20k on em when they were pulled.


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[N_Raged]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

Was everything tightened down while the control arm was under load?

No, first time doing this on a twin. I didn't recall any of the DIY guides on here or YouTube mention this tip. Thanks I'll keep it in mind when I take it all apart again to have a look.

[N_Raged]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

Was everything tightened down while the control arm was under load?

Okay I loosened and retorqued the rear under load and there's no change in ride height. Compared to other people here who installed tS springs on stock struts mine are 0.5" higher in the front and 1.0" higher in the back. At this point I'm just going to agree with the reason being the high pressure from the Bilsteins combined with the stiffer tS springs. I'll give it more time to hopefully settle more.

[Cephas]

Had my alignment done yesterday, after I installed my RCE Yellows and B6s, with crash bolts up front. The tech said the front evened out at about -1.1°. I didn't ask about the rear, since my understanding is it's not adjustable, but when I looked at my printout afterward, it said the rears were at -2.0.

That seems like a discrepancy in the wrong direction? I thought we were supposed to be even all the way around, or maybe a bit more negative in the front. Am I looking at rear LCAs to get there?

[RToyo86]

Originally Posted by Cephas

Had my alignment done yesterday, after I installed my RCE Yellows and B6s, with crash bolts up front. The tech said the front evened out at about -1.1°. I didn't ask about the rear, since my understanding is it's not adjustable, but when I looked at my printout afterward, it said the rears were at -2.0.

That seems like a discrepancy in the wrong direction? I thought we were supposed to be even all the way around, or maybe a bit more negative in the front. Am I looking at rear LCAs to get there?

The rear suspension is a multilink will add camber when the car is lowered. The fronts being McPherson strut don't really change at all which is where camber bolts come in.
Adjustable LCAs are an option if you want everything the same.

[Cephas]

Gotcha. Yeah I was just surprised how much camber the rears got off such a mild drop (20mm). Guess I'll drive it for awhile and decide whether to look for more camber up front, or less camber in the rear. Just trying to keep the handling balanced.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Cephas

Had my alignment done yesterday, after I installed my RCE Yellows and B6s, with crash bolts up front. The tech said the front evened out at about -1.1°. I didn't ask about the rear, since my understanding is it's not adjustable, but when I looked at my printout afterward, it said the rears were at -2.0.

That seems like a discrepancy in the wrong direction? I thought we were supposed to be even all the way around, or maybe a bit more negative in the front. Am I looking at rear LCAs to get there?

The rear isn't adjustable from the factory, so those numbers are expected for what you have. It'll still be good like that (nice that it's even at least in the rear). With adjustable rear LCAs, I'd take the rear down a smidge to around -1.5 to -1.8 for a daily driver.

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by N_Raged

Okay I loosened and retorqued the rear under load and there's no change in ride height. Compared to other people here who installed tS springs on stock struts mine are 0.5" higher in the front and 1.0" higher in the back. At this point I'm just going to agree with the reason being the high pressure from the Bilsteins combined with the stiffer tS springs. I'll give it more time to hopefully settle more.

A full inch doesn't sound right. Are you sure the rear spring perch is seated correctly on the Bilsteins? Did it settle at all?

- Andrew

[timurrrr]

Originally Posted by Cephas

Had my alignment done yesterday, after I installed my RCE Yellows and B6s, with crash bolts up front. The tech said the front evened out at about -1.1°. I didn't ask about the rear, since my understanding is it's not adjustable, but when I looked at my printout afterward, it said the rears were at -2.0.

That seems like a discrepancy in the wrong direction? I thought we were supposed to be even all the way around, or maybe a bit more negative in the front. Am I looking at rear LCAs to get there?

Really depends on what is your goals with the car. I wouldn't do any less camber in the rear, and if anything add more in the front. -1.1⁰ in the front is almost nothing.

[Cephas]

Originally Posted by timurrrr

Really depends on what is your goals with the car. I wouldn't do any less camber in the rear, and if anything add more in the front. -1.1⁰ in the front is almost nothing.

Yeah that's a fair question. There's no track time in my foreseeable future, so basically my goals at the moment are to make it a little more fun on the street, and shore up some of the weaknesses it had from the factory (i.e. plowing the front into corners). But of course as a street car and DD, I have to strike a balance so I'm not murdering tires, sacrificing ride quality, etc.

[timurrrr]

Originally Posted by Cephas

Yeah that's a fair question. There's no track time in my foreseeable future, so basically my goals at the moment are to make it a little more fun on the street, and shore up some of the weaknesses it had from the factory (i.e. plowing the front into corners). But of course as a street car and DD, I have to strike a balance so I'm not murdering tires, sacrificing ride quality, etc.

Camber doesn't eat as much tire as too much toe does. I wouldn't reduce camber in the rear for stability. You may want to add some in the front next time you do an alignment.

[N_Raged]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

A full inch doesn't sound right. Are you sure the rear spring perch is seated correctly on the Bilsteins? Did it settle at all?

- Andrew

Yes the end if the coil is right up against the zigzag thing on the spring perch.
After a few drives the rear settled 3/16" to 27 3/16".

I'm not sure if this is an effective measurement but I also measured the distance between the pinch weld jack points and the ground. The rear jack points are only less than half an inch higher off the ground than the front jack points (with a half tank of fuel). So that doesn't seem like a huge rake to be concerned about right?

Whatever, I'm gonna stop worrying and just drive the thing. Looking at real life photos of the 2020 tS, there's a comical amount of fender gap for a car with performance tuned springs and mine doesn't look that much different.

[EAGLE5]

Do threaded rod ends in bending fail much? Are threaded rod ends in bending acceptable ever? Seems like a lot of aftermarket companies offer adjustable suspension that puts the threaded rods in a bending position. I've just read that this is a bad idea. I just don't see people here or anywhere complaining much about actual failures.