OEM-like clutch replacement

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by B-R-Z

Does the stage 1 have a shorter life span than the OEM? How much heavier is the pedal? I sit in traffic for 15-20 minutes daily.

May be moving to a DCT for my next car, possibly an M2, this spring/summer. But a little nervous to not have a manual.

Edit: Stage 1 organic version is $170 more, not worth it IMO. But this one does not hold 250WTQ so maybe it's a different one?

https://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-raci...i-2197309.aspx

I have the stage 1, but I have a Harrop kit with E85 at 12psi. The different in pedal pressure is minimal, and I removed the clutch pedal spring.

I don't think it is worth the money. The OEM unit is actually less harsh on deceleration because it has dampeners.

He quoted what it typically holds--not what the manufacture says it holds.

[B-R-Z]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

If the TOB fails then it is worth it to replace the clutch, especially if the oil inside made a mess on the clutch, but I doubt you need an upgrade. The OEM clutch should be fine. My mom had 250k on her stock clutch on her Accord. Our clutches would last forever with regular use. It is the TOB that sucked.

Agree, I was on a highway for 90% of my current 175k miles, I'm confident my clutch is in great shape. I drive 45 miles each way to work, spending maybe 10 minutes each way with stop and go traffic which beats up the crappy TOB.

I am still on my original front brake pads. Yeah, I said it. Replaced the rears in 2017 but fronts had plenty of meat on them. Thinking they may be due this summer, but we will see. Still no noise and last time I checked they were still thicc.

[B-R-Z]

Has anyone recently used the Exedy OEM replacement clutch and checked which TOB they are using? I have one coming in tomorrow. I called around for the new TOB and Subaru wants $55 and Toyota wants $30. Hoping Exedy replaced their bearings with the new one but I doubt it.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by B-R-Z

Has anyone recently used the Exedy OEM replacement clutch and checked which TOB they are using? I have one coming in tomorrow. I called around for the new TOB and Subaru wants $55 and Toyota wants $30. Hoping Exedy replaced their bearings with the new one but I doubt it.

Supposedly the newest Exedy kits have the updated bearing. The one I bought last summer did not.

[Lantanafrs2]

I let my tob go for too long and smoked the entire clutch assembly. 2300 for everything installed at local dealer. All oem so it feels oem lol

[B-R-Z]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Supposedly the newest Exedy kits have the updated bearing. The one I bought last summer did not.

Good to know. I will open it up when it comes in tomorrow and post which one it has. It is coming from Amazon so hopefully it is from Exedy's latest stock.

Originally Posted by Lantanafrs2

I let my tob go for too long and smoked the entire clutch assembly. 2300 for everything installed at local dealer. All oem so it feels oem lol

The noise comes and goes and I have no problems with shifting but the noise makes me nervous. I am looking to address it asap instead of letting it go until it's a problem. I hate to spend money on the car when I am planning on upgrading in the spring/summer, but at least it can be a selling point & benefit for the next owner.

[86MLR]

My TOB on my 2017 86 is sounding kaput.

Looking to upgrade, the car has about 280nm (206 ft lb).

From my Googling:

All the non OEM clutchs seem to need the flywheel machined, or, they come with a lightened flywheel, which I don't want as the car is my daily.

By machine do they just mean resurface/skim, or do they need to remove some meat?

Am I not searching right?

Is my Google Kung Fu weak?

[Sapphireho]

Originally Posted by 86MLR

My TOB on my 2017 86 is sounding kaput.

Looking to upgrade, the car has about 280nm (206 ft lb).

From my Googling:

All the non OEM clutchs seem to need the flywheel machined, or, they come with a lightened flywheel, which I don't want as the car is my daily.

By machine do they just mean resurface/skim, or do they need to remove some meat?

Am I not searching right?

Is my Google Kung Fu weak?

I'm pretty sure they take off as little as possible to get rid of any glazing or possible uneven wear. You'll be fine.

[Lantanafrs2]

Originally Posted by B-R-Z

Good to know. I will open it up when it comes in tomorrow and post which one it has. It is coming from Amazon so hopefully it is from Exedy's latest stock.


The noise comes and goes and I have no problems with shifting but the noise makes me nervous. I am looking to address it asap instead of letting it go until it's a problem. I hate to spend money on the car when I am planning on upgrading in the spring/summer, but at least it can be a selling point & benefit for the next owner.

The noise will come and go at first and then it will stay.

[B-R-Z]

Originally Posted by Lantanafrs2

The noise will come and go at first and then it will stay.

...I figured this is the case, which is why I'm fixing it.

[B-R-Z]

It looks like the Exedy FJK1005 kit came with the revised bearing, what do you guys think? No white dot, but the tabs look consistent with the revised.

The top image is the comparison I took from this thread, with 30502AA150 being the revised part. All of the pictures below it is the one I got.

[RayRay88]

Originally Posted by B-R-Z

It looks like the Exedy FJK1005 kit came with the revised bearing, what do you guys think? No white dot, but the tabs look consistent with the revised.

The top image is the comparison I took from this thread, with 30502AA150 being the revised part. All of the pictures below it is the one I got.

I thought the old and new one looked identical, the only difference WAS the dot to signify they put in better HD grease.

[B-R-Z]

Originally Posted by RayRay88

I thought the old and new one looked identical, the only difference WAS the dot to signify they put in better HD grease.

It looks like the design of the 2 tabs on the sides changed slightly too, IDK.

[B-R-Z]

Looking online I am seeing pictures of the 30502AA051 that use both types of housings/tabs so you cannot go based solely on the tabs. I'm going to buy the new bearing to be safe since without seeing the white dot, it's a gamble.

The Toyota version also uses the white dot to identify the revised version: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Toy...-/202292414919. Take a look at the 4th picture.