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Old 12-19-2017, 10:44 PM   #29
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Not at all, I posed my question about the rigidity of the chassis and its ability to handle the extra power. There were a few relevant responses , including some of yours which are appreciated.


...Also had some irrelevant responses, that have nothing to do with the question and one response in particular that had more of a condescending, "keep the 86 as it was designed, you've ruined it" tone to it, hence my response.


By your reaction to my response I wonder are you including yourself in the "Genius" group I mentioned and taking offence or actually just curious as to the nature of my response?
Just curious more than anything but your cryptic statement will have more than one person with a sincere response wondering if you included them.
This is a community and as such you will get both the info you want and some that you don't. Lashing out at the people with answers you don't like won't stop them and just makes you look as bad.
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Old 12-19-2017, 10:57 PM   #30
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Listen guys, we all appreciate the hostility, but let's get back to the subject on hand. If you're driving your car in a manner that would be deemed "dangerous" on highway roads, it's a good idea to have a cage.

Let's all just agree with me and be done with it.
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Old 12-19-2017, 11:01 PM   #31
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Just curious more than anything but your cryptic statement will have more than one person with a sincere response wondering if you included them.
This is a community and as such you will get both the info you want and some that you don't. Lashing out at the people with answers you don't like won't stop them and just makes you look as bad.
Thanks and you’re right.
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Old 12-19-2017, 11:02 PM   #32
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Listen guys, we all appreciate the hostility, but let's get back to the subject on hand. If you're driving your car in a manner that would be deemed "dangerous" on highway roads, it's a good idea to have a cage.

Let's all just agree with me and be done with it.
With or without a helmet???
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Old 12-20-2017, 12:01 AM   #33
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You can use dial indicators and cameras to aid in deciding on whether to reinforce the subframe-chassis hard points.

One option is to build a rear strut bar that ties into the subframe mounts. That would give you local rigidity while retaining some safety for street driving. You'd lose some of the rear crumple zone, but wouldn't have the safety risks of a full cage.
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Old 12-20-2017, 12:14 AM   #34
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I mean our stock chassis has been in the 7s already ��
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Old 12-20-2017, 12:31 AM   #35
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7's with no cage?
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Old 12-20-2017, 07:15 AM   #36
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Listen guys, we all appreciate the hostility, but let's get back to the subject on hand. If you're driving your car in a manner that would be deemed "dangerous" on highway roads, it's a good idea to have a cage.

Let's all just agree with me and be done with it.
No it is not.
A cage is intended for a dedicated race car and is to be used in conjunction with other safety devices.
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Old 12-20-2017, 12:15 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILLSMOQ View Post
Not at all, I posed my question about the rigidity of the chassis and its ability to handle the extra power. There were a few relevant responses , including some of yours which are appreciated.


...Also had some irrelevant responses, that have nothing to do with the question and one response in particular that had more of a condescending, "keep the 86 as it was designed, you've ruined it" tone to it, hence my response.


By your reaction to my response I wonder are you including yourself in the "Genius" group I mentioned and taking offence or actually just curious as to the nature of my response?
Not irrelevant...It was clearly said that the chassis felt tight when you drove it stock implying that it will retain this same "tightness" afterwards. I was merely explaining why that is not correct.

I was actually hoping you'd respond with.. "Putting a Porsche flat 6 in there so jokes on you!" But I guess not.

Just because you don't like the information doesn't make it false but don't mind me, I am just one ricer in a slow and uncomfortable car among thousands passing through here.
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Old 12-20-2017, 12:46 PM   #38
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Not irrelevant...It was clearly said that the chassis felt tight when you drove it stock implying that it will retain this same "tightness" afterwards. I was merely explaining why that is not correct.

I was actually hoping you'd respond with.. "Putting a Porsche flat 6 in there so jokes on you!" But I guess not.

Just because you don't like the information doesn't make it false but don't mind me, I am just one ricer in a slow and uncomfortable car among thousands passing through here.
He isn't just slapping some engine in there. He is using well thought out mounts which put the engine as low and far back as possible while still retaining enough clearance for everything to work as intended. The engine/transmission combo he is using is somewhere around 60-80lbs more than the factory engine/trans combo, and most of the weight is gained in the transmission, which is low and center. Factory Weight Bias is retained, while more than tripling the factory power output (without use of a turbo).

He is simply asking if the chassis could handle the power/torque increase without causing any negative effects. I don't blame him for asking.

Coming in and responding to a thread in which you have no direct experience and spreading speculations without even know what is going on doesn't help.
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Old 12-20-2017, 12:55 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TorontoNat View Post
Not irrelevant...It was clearly said that the chassis felt tight when you drove it stock implying that it will retain this same "tightness" afterwards. I was merely explaining why that is not correct.

I was actually hoping you'd respond with.. "Putting a Porsche flat 6 in there so jokes on you!" But I guess not.

Just because you don't like the information doesn't make it false but don't mind me, I am just one ricer in a slow and uncomfortable car among thousands passing through here.
Welcome back Mat, You were so focused on center of gravity and body roll, I completely missed where you actually addressed any part of my comments.

Also, I wouldn’t call your information “information”...it’s more of an opinion and you know what those are like. Everyone’s got one. You can flush what comes out of yours next time thanks
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Old 12-20-2017, 03:23 PM   #40
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Read through the swap thread and it doesn't look like you have compromised the integrity of the chassis to any great degree. Looks like it was pretty well thought out.
I would skip the idea of a cage for adding strength though. Any increase in rigidity it may give is poorly located and of little value anyway. A long piece of pipe with several bends in it and a very small contact footprint with the car is not going to gain you much.
If I was in your position I would go with one of the available brace kits. You may have to do some minor surgery to get some to work with your engine though.


https://www.frsmod.com/products/fr-s...it-for-frs-brz
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Old 12-20-2017, 03:50 PM   #41
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Quote:
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Read through the swap thread and it doesn't look like you have compromised the integrity of the chassis to any great degree. Looks like it was pretty well thought out.
I would skip the idea of a cage for adding strength though. Any increase in rigidity it may give is poorly located and of little value anyway. A long piece of pipe with several bends in it and a very small contact footprint with the car is not going to gain you much.
If I was in your position I would go with one of the available brace kits. You may have to do some minor surgery to get some to work with your engine though.


https://www.frsmod.com/products/fr-s...it-for-frs-brz

Wish I would have seen that kit before ordering the Cusco strut tower brace. Any idea if it’s aluminum or steel? Looks pretty good. Those items will help for sure since the subframes are not very robust. I had to bend the rear subframe to open it up a bit to be able to slip the 8.8 diff into place...it bent pretty easily with a pry bar.

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Old 12-20-2017, 04:00 PM   #42
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Wish I would have seen that kit before ordering the Cusco strut tower brace. Looks pretty good. Those items will help for sure since the subframes are not very robust. I had to bend the rear subframe to open it up a bit to be able to slip the 8.8 diff into place...it bent pretty easily with a pry bar.
They are more robust than they seem. They are engineered to take stress in a certain direction. Come at it from another direction or apply force outside of the design criteria and they will bend easily but try to force it to move from the proper angles and it will be strong as hell. The thing is that the design is meant to operate as a whole so even though individual pieces may seem weak when you put it all together it is very strong. If every piece was strong individually the car would be about twice it's weight.
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