LED interior light upgrade causes computer failure

[Husker BRZ]

Originally Posted by xxscaxx

In order to basically change the bulb out you have to disconnect the harness plug from the light, which will kill power to it. So even if you used a screwdriver it wouldn't matter, but these bulbs are easily removable with your finger, so if your using something to pry them out I don't know what to tell ya

Right. I was trying to say either disconnect it and use the screwdriver or leave it plugged in and use your fingers. It's not as easy for people with bigger fingers lol (my friends case) since it's kinda a tight space.

[xxscaxx]

Originally Posted by Husker BRZ

Right. I was trying to say either disconnect it and use the screwdriver or leave it plugged in and use your fingers. It's not as easy for people with bigger fingers lol (my friends case) since it's kinda a tight space.

True - that comment wasn't pointed at you btw, just was a general statement lol

[Rayme]

Originally Posted by Poodles

Said this in the other thread, but I'll say it again.


If the OEM is stupid enough to not use a fuse on a circuit that could potentially short out and damage an expensive component, it's all on them. It's what they're there for.


There's always a possibility of water getting into the door (that's why they have weep holes at the bottom) and shorting it out. Just seems like a terrible oversight IMHO.

So you want one fuse per lightbulb?

[Poodles]

Originally Posted by Rayme

So you want one fuse per lightbulb?

No, they're usually grouped in with the dome light or something else.


This is how cars have been made forever. All circuits should have fault protection for safety.

[Enders FRS]

So, which line is it going to the BIU and what amperage is it ok with? Sounds like an easy fix with an inline fuse.

Reason why I ask, is I plan on adding some puddle lights to the dome light circuit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[quark]

Checking out thread, I noticed that the LED bulb has a solder joint that sits just next to the metal frame, the frame carries the power.

This may be why some get the dreaded dead controller issue.

This metal frame should be insulated with black tape before inserting the Led.

Does anyone have one of the LED's to verify potential for short?

Here is the solder joint (taken from joergasm)

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1137701

[Oliverrick]

It's finally replaced! Today is a good day. It only took one hour because the Tech that did it knew in advance he would be doing the replacement so he read up on it over the 4th of July weekend. The key fobs did not need to be reprogrammed on the BRZ's. I'm a happy camper! Now summer will be even better. Thank's again to everyone that gave me advice on what to do. Rick

[cslntuee]

Originally Posted by Oliverrick

It's finally replaced! Today is a good day. It only took one hour because the Tech that did it knew in advance he would be doing the replacement so he read up on it over the 4th of July weekend. The key fobs did not need to be reprogrammed on the BRZ's. I'm a happy camper! Now summer will be even better. Thank's again to everyone that gave me advice on what to do. Rick

Did you plan to put the aftermarket door LED again?
Thanks.

[Slade]

So its not safe to put LED in the courtesy lights in a Limited BRZ or it will fry everything. But what about putting them in the License plate?

[soulreapersteve]

Originally Posted by Slade

So its not safe to put LED in the courtesy lights in a Limited BRZ or it will fry everything. But what about putting them in the License plate?

Got these from diode dynamics. Installed them 2 months ago and no issues. I'm sure for the BRZ, it's no different.

http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/l...nse-plate-leds

[Poodles]

Originally Posted by Slade

So its not safe to put LED in the courtesy lights in a Limited BRZ or it will fry everything. But what about putting them in the License plate?

It's fine for both... if you just buy the LED assemblies.


http://www.fteightysix.com/appearanc.../#.Ve5NaYuFOUl

[Jhood]

Soo I know this is 2 years old, but I need to know.. after this BIU is fried and you noticed that the door lights continue to stay on when the door is closed, is that literally the ONLY thing that it effects? I have the same issue from an LED install, but I'm out of warranty at 50k miles.. so honestly if all I have to worry about is a tiny light left on, I'll def opt out of a $500 bill and 5 hour wait time. Frustrating because this happened at around 30k miles, I was just too lazy to look into the issue until now and it's mind boggling how shorting a door light bulb fries an entire BIU

[Poodles]

Originally Posted by Jhood

Soo I know this is 2 years old, but I need to know.. after this BIU is fried and you noticed that the door lights continue to stay on when the door is closed, is that literally the ONLY thing that it effects? I have the same issue from an LED install, but I'm out of warranty at 50k miles.. so honestly if all I have to worry about is a tiny light left on, I'll def opt out of a $500 bill and 5 hour wait time. Frustrating because this happened at around 30k miles, I was just too lazy to look into the issue until now and it's mind boggling how shorting a door light bulb fries an entire BIU

Going to run your battery down. I honestly don't know if anything else is affected. The module MIGHT be repairable, but I've never seen the inside of it or what might have failed. Good electronics repair shop might be able to fix it.