Catch can recommendation

[Somerandom18]

Prevents this shit from getting in your engine/intake manifold. Worth it.

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[Breadman]

Originally Posted by Somerandom18

Prevents this shit from getting in your engine/intake manifold. Worth it.

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ive had the mishimoto one on mine for about 2k miles and ive caught about that much.

[dostoyevsky]

Originally Posted by Slammillionaire

Forgive me for my ignorance, but as I understand these prevent oil from entering the cylinders with the air right? So If I don't track my car but have a decent daily commute, will a catch can lengthen the life of my engine? Would I see other benefits?

Depends on how you drive, my engine sees redline like 20 times a day and I'm losing quite a bit of oil from blowby

[dostoyevsky]

Anyone know how easy installation is?

Should I get pcv or dual?

[Somerandom18]

Originally Posted by Breadman

ive had the mishimoto one on mine for about 2k miles and ive caught about that much.

Yeah this is their compact can in the picture.

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[mindless]

Originally Posted by JazzleSAURUS

The vast majority of their products are pretty low quality, with enough R&D to say they did R&D, not enough to actually have remarkable improvements and performance gains.

Their radiators are often generic-ish fitment to cover an extra face lift or generation they have no business covering, their high performance fans move less air than stock fans, their thermostats stick, they don't even put their logo on silicone products straight.

I have personally experienced and tested their products and removed everything but my FXT radiator, and my BRZ intake tube.

The radiator will be replaced when I do the next motor, and the intake tube looks better than stock so it'll stay...for now.

Ahh thanks. I've been out of the car scene for 12 years, did stand up jetskis and now have a toy car again. Greddy, hks, etc are the names i recall from my turbo mr2 days.

[SoCalArgento]

Originally Posted by dostoyevsky

Anyone know how easy installation is?

Should I get pcv or dual?

I've had the dual Radium cans on my SC car for almost a year now and definitely catching some blow-by. Install was super easy and mostly depends on how you route the tubing according to your engine bay mods. I think most concur a single can is enough for NA builds and only FI warrants the use of dual.


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[guybo]

I don't know why people are dogging Mishimoto- I have a https://www.mishimoto.com/compact-ba...an-2-port.html and it is a very high quality 2 port sealed baffled catch can. It catches a lot of shit in the PCV line. I also installed a ball valve drain on the bottom. It says 2 port (in and out) but there's a 3rd port on the bottom where I installed the drain using brass plumbing supplies from Lowes.

It's not a 86-specific part so you will have to make your own mounting solution, but that's not too hard if you're handy. The suggested price is $155 but 2 years ago I got mine for $100

[JazzleSAURUS]

Originally Posted by mindless

Ahh thanks. I've been out of the car scene for 12 years, did stand up jetskis and now have a toy car again. Greddy, hks, etc are the names i recall from my turbo mr2 days.

Happy to help.

The big name Japanese tuning houses are definitely still around and kicking, but a lot of lower quality components from companies like Mishimoto, (and lots of suspension brands, think Megan, BC, ISC, etc) have shown up on the scene.

Most of these components are a high enough initial quality to work fine, but they are NOT made to last quality components, and won't give you the same high quality experience.

[JazzleSAURUS]

Originally Posted by guybo

I don't know why people are dogging Mishimoto- I have a https://www.mishimoto.com/compact-ba...an-2-port.html and it is a very high quality 2 port sealed baffled catch can. It catches a lot of shit in the PCV line. I also installed a ball valve drain on the bottom. It says 2 port (in and out) but there's a 3rd port on the bottom where I installed the drain using brass plumbing supplies from Lowes.

It's not a 86-specific part so you will have to make your own mounting solution, but that's not too hard if you're handy. The suggested price is $155 but 2 years ago I got mine for $100

It's an experience thing for me.

I'm on the THIRD radiator from them. THIRD. Radiators shouldn't just randomly spring pinhole leaks after working fine for a year. Radiator caps? After 4 I gave up and bought an OEM one.

How can a company who claims to put in tons of R&D, (hint, they don't...) and create lots of performance cooling components not understand some of the basics, like making a damn radiator cap? Ship the thing with a Stant or just knock $10 off the price and don't include one.

The components often times work, but they are FAR from a quality part.

Next failure of my radiator, (it's got 15k on it now, so maybe in another 5-10k it will fail again,) I'm keeping the replacement in the box and buying a Koyorad.

(FWIW their customer service is always very fast and helpful, but it does not excuse such a ridiculously low quality component.)

[armstrom]

I can recommend the Velox/Verus AOS mentioned on the first page. I installed one with my Harrop SC since it gave me somewhere to run the coolant lines that would otherwise have to be capped.
https://www.verus-engineering.com/pr...-oil-separator

[Jo0]

Just placed an order for the Velox kit. First mod being done to the car and will install it at the 1k break in oil change.

Little worried about the coolant portion of the install from just looking at the install guide, but I guess things will be self explanatory when I get to it.

[armstrom]

Originally Posted by Jo0

Just placed an order for the Velox kit. First mod being done to the car and will install it at the 1k break in oil change.

Little worried about the coolant portion of the install from just looking at the install guide, but I guess things will be self explanatory when I get to it.

You don't have to do the coolant part. The can will work just fine without it. I believe you even have to order the coolant kit separately. In my case the supercharger install required that I disconnect the coolant lines from the throttle body so rather than just cap the lines (caps almost always fail over time) I just ran longer coolant lines to the AOS. I do not have the additional parts to drain the caught oil back to the engine. That's the main purpose of the coolant kit, to warm the catch can so the oil can flow back to the engine more easily.
-Matt

[JazzleSAURUS]

Originally Posted by armstrom

You don't have to do the coolant part. The can will work just fine without it. I believe you even have to order the coolant kit separately. In my case the supercharger install required that I disconnect the coolant lines from the throttle body so rather than just cap the lines (caps almost always fail over time) I just ran longer coolant lines to the AOS. I do not have the additional parts to drain the caught oil back to the engine. That's the main purpose of the coolant kit, to warm the catch can so the oil can flow back to the engine more easily.
-Matt

Additionally, a big part of running coolant through AOS's is that it keeps the fluids at the same temp as the engine fluids. This keeps condensation down, and keeps lines from getting gummed up when it's exceptionally cold or exceptionally humid. I had an issue with an AOS that WASN'T heated where the return line got plugged during an unseasonably warm day in February of New England, causing some strange lifter noises. Turns out it was like capping a breather on the block.