Toe arm bolt

[thomasmryan]

sure...it should actually make more noise in a corner and a light application of the brakes will center the axle and change/lessen the tone.


looking at the parts diagrams, the 16-17 models have a newer part number for the bearing which may relate to 17" rims. just need to type in your vin. stateside 120 or 140 usd but from the price you posted on your toe arm there may be vat penalty.


if the belts are separated in the tire, you will feel it at very low speeds ie less than 4-5mph


if it where my car, I would just swap out that bearing, use that rim as a spare and get it aligned. your car being new, the bearing assembly should come out relatively easily.


5 bar rear set ups have a gimbal (pillow ball in Fuji speak) type bushing where the lower control arm meets the knuckle. I am not sure if they are liquid filled on this model but look to see if anything is leaking. (my old Tribeca has the same type linkage)


I had a car shipped 800 miles a few years ago. the front tapered bearing races got puckered because they where not spinning while being impact loaded from the bumpy ride and the double row on rears started making noise within a 1000 miles from the same shock loads.

[allowe]

Originally Posted by thomasmryan

sure...it should actually make more noise in a corner and a light application of the brakes will center the axle and change/lessen the tone.


looking at the parts diagrams, the 16-17 models have a newer part number for the bearing which may relate to 17" rims. just need to type in your vin. stateside 120 or 140 usd but from the price you posted on your toe arm there may be vat penalty.


if the belts are separated in the tire, you will feel it at very low speeds ie less than 4-5mph


if it where my car, I would just swap out that bearing, use that rim as a spare and get it aligned. your car being new, the bearing assembly should come out relatively easily.


5 bar rear set ups have a gimbal (pillow ball in Fuji speak) type bushing where the lower control arm meets the knuckle. I am not sure if they are liquid filled on this model but look to see if anything is leaking. (my old Tribeca has the same type linkage)


I had a car shipped 800 miles a few years ago. the front tapered bearing races got puckered because they where not spinning while being impact loaded from the bumpy ride and the double row on rears started making noise within a 1000 miles from the same shock loads.

Wow thanks for that useful reply!!! That's actually exactly what I'm planning to do. My concern now is the knuckle if it's bent or not. I'm Hoping I can get a hub and bearing assembly together. I just cancelled the order for both, Guna look for them together. Also, I'm changing the rotor to be safe.

Hey, is it safe to change just 1 rotor? I don't mind doing the other but it's an extra hour or two and I got a super busy schedule


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[Icecreamtruk]

Originally Posted by allowe

I paid them to be specific about what the damage was. I couldve guessed every single thing connected to that tire too.. I ordered a rotor, wheel bearing and hub and I'm Guna do em myself. I'm Guna inspect the brake pads that are doing the job well.. I took it to someone else's shop just now and did the same look around but took a bit longer. He also said the bearing and hub Are damaged but theyre functional and not to bear on it. He said the rotor was fine too but I ordered one because they're really cheap. His diagnostics was cheaper, he took the time to take everything apart and even instructed me on what to do next. Oh and apparently the rim is fine too. Just needed weights which he added.

I don't care about the costs. I just hate guesstimates and the whole "replace everything" just to be safe bs... stealerships


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That is one of the reasons I stopped going to the dealerships a long time ago. Their mentality seems to be: "something is bad or going bad, replace anything that is even remotely connected to it". Not only that, their rates are about double of most shops, they only replace parts by OEM parts and take a hell of a long time to do anything.

I found a shop that prepares cars for mostly race and rally, their rates are less than dealerships, they get things done fast and the job is well done. Never ever going back to a dealership after experiencing that level of service and quality job.

[allowe]

Originally Posted by Icecreamtruk

That is one of the reasons I stopped going to the dealerships a long time ago. Their mentality seems to be: "something is bad or going bad, replace anything that is even remotely connected to it". Not only that, their rates are about double of most shops, they only replace parts by OEM parts and take a hell of a long time to do anything.



I found a shop that prepares cars for mostly race and rally, their rates are less than dealerships, they get things done fast and the job is well done. Never ever going back to a dealership after experiencing that level of service and quality job.

Exactly! I went to Toyota because I was paranoid and wanted a full diagnostic of the rear passenger side. All I got was "maybes".

I wish I lived close to the place you're talking about man. I'm dying to find an honest shop. I spend lots of money on my cars because it's my passion.

Oh and don't get me started on the mechanics. Like 6 of them around my car, touching it and playing with things that weren't a part of the damage. I have my taillights red painted and they were rubbing it like they were tits or something... oh and some guy was sitting in the car while they had it up on a hoist. The idiot put his body weight on the door and the roof of the car to jump down. I don't know how strong our hinges are but I wanted to walk in there and stab him....




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[allowe]

I finally got my hands on a wheel hub and bearing assembly... is there a special tool to pull the hub off of the axle ?

Also... can it be the axle making that noise ? It's just a noise of something catching sometimes.

This is a crappy video of the sound [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPot18Dy-pE&feature=share"]Whoop sound - YouTube[/ame]

I'm so sorry about that crackling!! Listen to the last 10 seconds and the first bit, they have that whomping sound. Any ideas on what that whomp sound is? I'm running on a steelie for now


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[allowe]

I know it's a rough sound clip but any thoughts?


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[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by allowe

I know it's a rough sound clip but any thoughts?


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I wonder if it isn't just scrub from being out of alignment. Replace the bearing. Forget about the rotor. I think that's BS. Get it aligned and then listen.

[allowe]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I wonder if it isn't just scrub from being out of alignment. Replace the bearing. Forget about the rotor. I think that's BS. Get it aligned and then listen.

Thanks for your reply. Yea I'm Guna just replace it and get it aligned and call it a day I guess leave the rotor for now


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[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by allowe

Thanks for your reply. Yea I'm Guna just replace it and get it aligned and call it a day I guess leave the rotor for now.

Tell the shop all about what happened and ask them if they wouldn't mind inspecting your work. If you meet a cool guy he might point out stuff while it's on the lift.

Let us know how it goes.

[strat61caster]

The only hard part about pulling the hub off is the large axle nut, check out the diy threads for changing the wheel studs and they should have all the instructions.

[allowe]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

The only hard part about pulling the hub off is the large axle nut, check out the diy threads for changing the wheel studs and they should have all the instructions.

I've got an awesome impact wrench . I'm just scared to break the axle while trying to hammer it out of the hub :S


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[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by allowe

I've got an awesome impact wrench . I'm just scared to break the axle while trying to hammer it out of the hub :S


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I've done it three times and never needed to use a hammer, it should wiggle on or off easily unless you have rust problems.

Pull the wheel speed sensor out, that's the only thing I think may be at risk if you have to get ugly with it.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Pull the wheel speed sensor out,

Damn, strat, pro tip.
@allowe, this is a must. Frequent rookie oversight.

Fellow member's friend hosts this important page. I don't know how long they'll stay up so read while you can.

[allowe]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

I've done it three times and never needed to use a hammer, it should wiggle on or off easily unless you have rust problems.



Pull the wheel speed sensor out, that's the only thing I think may be at risk if you have to get ugly with it.

Do you actually have to take off the lca, trailing arm and toe arm in order to take the hub off?

Thanks for your reply!


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