Toe arm bolt

[allowe]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Could be the bearing or you are really out of alignment. I don't care how confident people are in their eyeball calibration an alignment can not be done without proper equipment. Step one would be to0 jack it up and spin the wheel and pull on it from side to side to see if there is any obvious bearing play. Step two is either replace the bearing or get a real alignment. Neither step should include any driving around at speed since the results if something fails could be way worse than hitting a curb.

Before I get an alignment at a shop, I wanna fix everything else. That's what I'm waiting for. My alignment isn't perfect at all. But atleast my abs and traction control lights went off


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[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by allowe

Before I get an alignment at a shop, I wanna fix everything else. That's what I'm waiting for. My alignment isn't perfect at all. But atleast my abs and traction control lights went off


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It could be the source up your noise though.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by allowe

Thank for your help man I'd buy u lunch if you were close to me!

Awesome!

Yeah, like Tcoat said. Depending on the speed and angle of the strike, there could be other stuff going on.

Definitely get an alignment and check your wheels/tires/bearings for damage.

If you want to do everything but the alignment you can check by pulling the half shaft so the wheel spins freely. IIRC, you'll need a 32 mm socket. Do a really good job lifting the crimp so you don't bugger the threads on the shaft. I think torque spec for that nut is 130 lb-ft.

If, when you spin the wheel, you hear anything, and I mean anything, that bearing is toast.

Then look for runout on the rim. Get a milk crate or maybe the scissor jack and set it so you can lay a screwdriver across to get it up close to the rim while you spin the wheel. Check both sides but most likely it'll show up on the inside if it's bent. Again, even a tiny bit is bad but maybe can be straightened. There are specs in the manual but I'm on lunch at work now.

Good luck.

[allowe]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

It could be the source up your noise though.

Possibly. I might take it to Toyota for a full inspection and just do the work myself. The accomplishment you get when you do your own work on ur car is beautiful


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[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

I don't care how confident people are in their eyeball calibration an alignment can not be done without proper equipment.

Yeah, string and a ruler is just so difficult to get a hold of as an amateur wrencher.



All kidding aside OP, Tcoat is spot on, any quality alignment shop should be able to perform an inspection when they align your car and find the problem if it's within their domain, and unless you have to tear it apart the alignment will stay true. Sure jack it up one more time and do everything Tcoat suggested before you drop it off, but there's very little point in beating around the bush.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by allowe

Possibly. I might take it to Toyota for a full inspection and just do the work myself. The accomplishment you get when you do your own work on ur car is beautiful


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Oh I get the satisfaction aspect but it can reach a point where you create a dangerous situation by insisting on doing it yourself. Not worth it in the long run.

[allowe]

I checked the tire by spinning It and it spins freely. Checked play, nothing The sound is random. I can sometimes go 10 mins without hearing it but then it comes out randomly for about


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[allowe]

So I went to Toyota for an inspection. They said bullshit that wasn't even damaged!! "Oh your rotor is bent". It was fine! How would a rotor bent if it wasn't even in the accident. Bearing and wheel hub are toast. Bearing spins fine too. The only thing they noticed that was true was the rim being slightly bent which I can see. They said my rear brake pads are done. They were changed by the dealer the day I bought them and I can CLEARLY see there is meat on them still. I was yelling at the top of my lungs at them. Fucking idiots. Oh and to do it all it would be 900 bucks. I can get all the parts minus the rims for 150


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[churchx]

OEM rims are expensive, almost as if they had been forged. No wonder high cited price.

[thomasmryan]

double row modular bearings are harder to diagnose than the taper type bearings.


it is best to seat tapered joints with the removal tool then torque the fastener to spec.


the rear alignment needs to be set for thrust and toe and then the front is set with respect to the rear....or you get the crab thing.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by thomasmryan

double row modular bearings are harder to diagnose than the taper type bearings.

You have my attention. Beyond spinning and listening carefully, do you have a technique?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by allowe

So I went to Toyota for an inspection. They said bullshit that wasn't even damaged!! "Oh your rotor is bent". It was fine! How would a rotor bent if it wasn't even in the accident. Bearing and wheel hub are toast. Bearing spins fine too. The only thing they noticed that was true was the rim being slightly bent which I can see. They said my rear brake pads are done. They were changed by the dealer the day I bought them and I can CLEARLY see there is meat on them still. I was yelling at the top of my lungs at them. Fucking idiots. Oh and to do it all it would be 900 bucks. I can get all the parts minus the rims for 150


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You hit the curb hard enough to bend the arm and that takes some serious force. Everything they said took that same hit.
The rotor could indeed be bent. They are not designed to take lateral force.
Bearing we already told you was probably bad based on your description of the issue.
Hub is the same situation as the rotor.
Rear pads could be split from the force and it doesn't matter how much meat there is on them.


There is not one word there that means they are lying nor stupid and every single thing you just listed is not only possibly damaged by a side hit but is bloody likely to be damaged since they are all attached. How the hell did you think the force got to the arm to bend it as bad as it was?


They are not the ones that smacked the curb and fucked things up so do not whine about the cost.

[allowe]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

You hit the curb hard enough to bend the arm and that takes some serious force. Everything they said took that same hit.
The rotor could indeed be bent. They are not designed to take lateral force.
Bearing we already told you was probably bad based on your description of the issue.
Hub is the same situation as the rotor.
Rear pads could be split from the force and it doesn't matter how much meat there is on them.


There is not one word there that means they are lying nor stupid and every single thing you just listed is not only possibly damaged by a side hit but is bloody likely to be damaged since they are all attached. How the hell did you think the force got to the arm to bend it as bad as it was?


They are not the ones that smacked the curb and fucked things up so do not whine about the cost.

I paid them to be specific about what the damage was. I couldve guessed every single thing connected to that tire too.. I ordered a rotor, wheel bearing and hub and I'm Guna do em myself. I'm Guna inspect the brake pads that are doing the job well.. I took it to someone else's shop just now and did the same look around but took a bit longer. He also said the bearing and hub Are damaged but theyre functional and not to bear on it. He said the rotor was fine too but I ordered one because they're really cheap. His diagnostics was cheaper, he took the time to take everything apart and even instructed me on what to do next. Oh and apparently the rim is fine too. Just needed weights which he added.

I don't care about the costs. I just hate guesstimates and the whole "replace everything" just to be safe bs... stealerships


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[allowe]

Originally Posted by thomasmryan

double row modular bearings are harder to diagnose than the taper type bearings.


it is best to seat tapered joints with the removal tool then torque the fastener to spec.


the rear alignment needs to be set for thrust and toe and then the front is set with respect to the rear....or you get the crab thing.

Id like to know how to diagnose them too if you don't mind


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