The best RPM or technique to shift from 1 to 2?

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Xxyion

I wonder if maybe this is more of an early model issue. I've never had issues going 1st to 2nd after i cold start in the morning. And lately we've been hitting temps of 30 degrees here in Nor Cal. Granted its nowhere near as cold as places that snow so maybe thats the difference?

Edit: NVM just checked OP's location and he's in the city where its actually warmer. /shrug

You may be like @Tcoat. He has always had the timing down and didn't realize it.

Next time, on a cold morning, for your very first 1-2 shift, pause in neutral with the clutch depressed. I bet you'll at least notice the difference.

[ShadowReaper]

I dont think I've had the exact problem but I make the transition slower than the higher gears and do it more carefully

[STZ]

I've pretty much done this in every manual car I've owned for 1st -> 2nd.

You gotta give it a bit of gas while letting the clutch pedal out, just like starting from a stop.

Either that, or you can be slower with the clutch to give it more time for the revs to drop.

[gled21]

change ur tranny oil, i used amsoil 75w-90 last change and it solved that problem for me.

[Sapphireho]

Come on guys, we did 6 or so pages on how to press the clutch, we should be able to at least match that in how to pull the lever down.

[Tokay444]

Never.
Ever.
Lift.

[Chronology]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

Here, from another thread. First to second has the largest change in RPM for any given speed, so it'll take longer for the RPM to drop. Also, these transmissions are notorious for being difficult when cold.

I do have to say, I moved from the stock trans fluid to Torco MTF (http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/mtf.html) I did 2 bottles and a bit of a 3rd of RTF (http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/rtf.html) and now the cold gear changes feel MUCH smoother and less like your working hard to "jam" a gear into position.

[-Willis-86touge]

Tap first for take off. Never lift clutch, shift into second as low as possible the give it gas. Basically starting in second!

[Lantana frs]

Ive never had an issue with this transmission. In fact its light years from what I used as a kid. You might be lifting the throttle too early and back loading it before you disengage clutch. Just a thought.

[justatroll]

Originally Posted by Xxyion

I wonder if maybe this is more of an early model issue. I've never had issues going 1st to 2nd after i cold start in the morning. And lately we've been hitting temps of 30 degrees here in Nor Cal. Granted its nowhere near as cold as places that snow so maybe thats the difference?

Edit: NVM just checked OP's location and he's in the city where its actually warmer. /shrug

That made me laugh.... California, Cold, ha ha....
I drove my BRZ to work the last two days, it was close to ZERO thurs morning and glare ice & snow on the roads.

BRZ with TC ON and snow tires and I was driving around 4X4 jeeps.

And yes the shift to second getting out of my neighborhood was like moving a stick in cold molasses.
After ~5 minutes it was shifting normally again.

[Spartarus]

To quiet the cold shifting... cold weather... early model... Speculation BS.

These gearboxes are much more durable and much better built than people give them credit for.

I drove an early 2013 model on stock fluid...

Through Alaskan winters...

Through cold starts at -40f...

Like a drift missile...

Shifting 1-2 at redline like the gearbox owed me money...

Did the same thing at 100f in Florida...

For a total of 30K miles...

...And never had a single shifting issue of any kind...

...Ever.

It's your timing. With your clutch. With your shift. That's everyone's problem. The only exception is people who got a used car where the synchros are already ruined badly.

Old synchros used to give you a wince-inducing grind, but go in to gear anyway if your shifting/timing sucked. The baulk ring synchros in this car, and most all modern manual transmissions, will lock you out of gear or hesitate if your timing sucks.

It's a hard pill to swallow.

To answer your timing question. The click of the gearbox coming out of first and the click of the clutch pedal hitting the floor should happen at the exact same time.

Do not adjust your clutch pushrod. You need the entire throw of the clutch to clear the friction zone.. It is not there by accident. The engineers did not waste one millimeter

The entire process should happen at the same pace. Your clutch pedal should hit the floor and immediately come back up. Your shift speed is limited only by the speed at which you can drive the pedal through a full cycle. If the box is crossing neutral at the moment the pedal hits the floor, the box will and should shift as fast as you can move the lever.

If anything else happens, you are fighting the clutch drag with the synchros, and the gearbox will punish you for it.

[ls1ac]

ok, a little late to this party.
this little engine likes RPM and does not have a lot of rotating mass.
when everything is warmed up, experiment with shifting between 4K and 5K.
the RPM spread is greater and with a fast shift you can beat the gear match or with a slow shift will miss the match.
once you feel the timing you can modify the timing for other RPM shifts.
this does not mean you have to floor board the gas pedal as it is the RPM that is important.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Spartarus

To quiet the cold shifting... cold weather... early model... Speculation BS.

These gearboxes are much more durable and much better built than people give them credit for.

I drove an early 2013 model on stock fluid...

Through Alaskan winters...

Through cold starts at -40f...

Like a drift missile...

Shifting 1-2 at redline like the gearbox owed me money...

Did the same thing at 100f in Florida...

For a total of 30K miles...

...And never had a single shifting issue of any kind...

...Ever.

It's your timing. With your clutch. With your shift. That's everyone's problem. The only exception is people who got a used car where the synchros are already ruined badly.

Old synchros used to give you a wince-inducing grind, but go in to gear anyway if your shifting/timing sucked. The baulk ring synchros in this car, and most all modern manual transmissions, will lock you out of gear or hesitate if your timing sucks.

It's a hard pill to swallow.

To answer your timing question. The click of the gearbox coming out of first and the click of the clutch pedal hitting the floor should happen at the exact same time.

Do not adjust your clutch pushrod. You need the entire throw of the clutch to clear the friction zone.. It is not there by accident. The engineers did not waste one millimeter

The entire process should happen at the same pace. Your clutch pedal should hit the floor and immediately come back up. Your shift speed is limited only by the speed at which you can drive the pedal through a full cycle. If the box is crossing neutral at the moment the pedal hits the floor, the box will and should shift as fast as you can move the lever.

If anything else happens, you are fighting the clutch drag with the synchros, and the gearbox will punish you for it.

Thank you! There are at least two of us that have never had an issue.
To add one more point all this should be done in a smooth controlled manner by pushing and pulling the shifter. The death grip on the knob hammering into gear crap from the movies is not how to shift. When you have your hand wrapped around the whole knob your muscles are fighting the lever and pulling the shifter in several directions at once not just sliding it into position. A nice light yet quick push or pull in the direction that the shifter wants to go anyway is all that is needed.

You can tell the real drivers in movies since even when acting they do it right.

Do this:



Not this:

[chaoskaze]

If you can't get into 1st sometime get it into second then just slide up. .... wait 😂

Get motul transmission oil thou, no joke.

For a while I couldn't get into 2nd after the car moves & cant get it back into first if I stopped at traffic light. 😂 hella fun commute


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