First stud broken

[Jajanken86]

Originally Posted by CatDaddysBBQ

I know. The first was during a dealer-covered first service after buying it new. I didn't know about the issue with the studs, so I didn't have any reason to object to a tire rotation. It was the next time I touched the wheels that I had a stud issue. Didn't know it was common (yet - it was still 2013).

After getting two replaced, I vowed never to let anybody touch them again, but one other time, I got a nail in the tire two blocks from a discount tire. They swapped it out - I didn't put the spare on since I was so close to the place.

They also ruined a stud. I replaced that one myself, and since have not let anybody touch them for the past two years...

I know better, and have for years now... but occasionally shit happens!

Now that you mention it, this is the exact Dame thing that happened to me with the discount tire store. Prolly why that stud broke.

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[Jajanken86]

I got to replace the stud yesterday and process went fine although I just ran into a problem on my way to work this morning. There's some resistance when I first start moving. Not a lot, but that wasn't there before. The resistance is also enough to hold me at very slight inclines. If I start moving ever so slowly I hear creaking. But it's silent when I'm up to speed, and there's no abnormalities in braking feel. I'm pretty sure I made the stud sit flush to the hub and made it look identical to the other 4. Was there a certain torque I had to tighten them to before mounting the brakes and wheel? The brakes and wheel went on smoothly on all 5 studs too. Torqued wheels on to 89 ft-lb. Thanks for all the response guys!

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[solidONE]

Your mind is playing tricks on you or there is something else wrong. I dont see how a wheel stud is going to add to rolling resistance of your wheel.

I've had to replace 6 wheel studs in total. 5 of them at once thanks to a shop that I bought tires from. They cross threaded 5 lugs when remounting my wheels. The last one was my own fault partly. There was a visible chip on one of the last threads on the stud, but I got lazy and did not replace it. The lug nut ended up seizing on the stud... no surprise. Upgrading to ARP or some other grade 10.9 stud seems like a good idea as these subaru studs dont seem to be the most durable.

[p1l0t]

Originally Posted by solidONE

Your mind is playing tricks on you or there is something else wrong. I dont see how a wheel stud is going to add to rolling resistance of your wheel.

I've had to replace 6 wheel studs in total. 5 of them at once thanks to a shop that I bought tires from. They cross threaded 5 lugs when remounting my wheels. The last one was my own fault partly. There was a visible chip on one of the last threads on the stud, but I got lazy and did not replace it. The lug nut ended up seizing on the stud... no surprise. Upgrading to ARP or some other grade 10.9 stud seems like a good idea as these subaru studs dont seem to be the most durable.

Upgrade to AARP

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[Jajanken86]

Originally Posted by solidONE

Your mind is playing tricks on you or there is something else wrong. I dont see how a wheel stud is going to add to rolling resistance of your wheel.

I've had to replace 6 wheel studs in total. 5 of them at once thanks to a shop that I bought tires from. They cross threaded 5 lugs when remounting my wheels. The last one was my own fault partly. There was a visible chip on one of the last threads on the stud, but I got lazy and did not replace it. The lug nut ended up seizing on the stud... no surprise. Upgrading to ARP or some other grade 10.9 stud seems like a good idea as these subaru studs dont seem to be the most durable.

What grade are these subaru studs anyway? And yeah I hope that's the case and I didn't mess up somewhere in the process. I'm also suspecting is the rust in my brakes. They're always rusty cuz I barely drive my car during the work week. Literally only drive 1 mile to work lol. And I drove it even less during the past weekend with that stud broken

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[solidONE]

They're grade 8.8 steel, I believe.

[Jajanken86]

Damn it there's really is something I did wrong -__- I jacked up the front passenger wheel I replaced a stud on and it's so damn hard to pull the wheel by hand and rotate it. The other side was so easy! Anyone have ideas? I'll be double checking on the brakes hopefully tmrw

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[solidONE]

I'd check everything you removed to install the stud. Brakes, rotors etc. Maybe you didnt install properly and its dragging.

[p1l0t]

Did you hook the turbo back up? Maybe you're not getting any boost?

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[Jajanken86]

LOL I just got done putting everything back together. Thanks for the advice! After greasing the sliding pins I messed up the orientation of it and I think I got impatient and just jammed the caliper on it without noticing it's an oval shaped thing haha. It freewheels normally now.

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[CatDaddysBBQ]

They seem to be made of a high-tensile butter blend.

[Votlon]

Imo studs and lugs are a maintence items that will break.
So you should just buy the cheapest you need until the next time they break

[calic]

Originally Posted by CatDaddysBBQ

Two tips (from somebody who has had a few oem studs snap)

1: Never let a shop/dealership/etc change wheels. Every single time I removed wheels after somebody else put them on, at least one was ruined. It took me a few times to catch on to the problem, but now I just flat out refuse to let anybody else but me touch them.
2: ALWAYS use a torque wrench and be gentle
3: You'll have a bit better luck with aftermarket lugs (i haven't had any issues since switching to Gorillas)

I had 5 ruined the first time I took my wheels off, but the dealer replaced them all. Since they were the last to take off the wheels.

FYI: I think there is an issue with the stock lug nuts. Water gets inside and can cause galling. Make sure you clean your studs off and keep an eye out. Or it can cause them to cold weld themselves to the studs.