Maestro idatalink test dummy

[tofurun]

Originally Posted by FNCrazy

Cutting OBD2 wires??? Yikes!

I need to find a good installer

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

In the notes it says connect to twisted wires behind connector. IDK if they ever did this install but...... I had to cut back black wire tape and then located the 2 wires. Cut them. Then use splice connectors. Gave them a tug and were good to go.

[ryoma]

Originally Posted by tofurun

The best part about this head unit is that it has applecar and androidcar connect. So i can listen to XM or whatever while the actually nav on my phone shows on the screen. IMO its way better than the stock nav system that came with the car. It displays all the gauges that a vishnu or p3cars pod would display. I would have to go out there and go through them all to make you a full list lol (i can do this but not right now im exhausted after cutting into the obd2 lol). All gauges on my head unit i can change to read whatever I want.

the reason for keeping factory nav is because I have a limited data plan on my phone line so it's easier for me to use the factory system than use my phone data.

then again, after I read that you had to splice some wires into the OBD2 wires, it is above my comfort level to do. I thought it was a simple OBD2 plug.

[tofurun]

Originally Posted by ryoma

the reason for keeping factory nav is because I have a limited data plan on my phone line so it's easier for me to use the factory system than use my phone data.

then again, after I read that you had to splice some wires into the OBD2 wires, it is above my comfort level to do. I thought it was a simple OBD2 plug.

Not a plug and play at all into the OBD2. It was above my comfort level and Im an electrician.... Only reason I went through with it was because I dont drive the car every day so I tell myself with every mod "If it break it breaks." Just a weekend fun car for me. It works great though. I have a company phone so data is no issue for me.

[SVXdc]

For anyone else doing this (or tofurun, if you ever need to re-do it):

There is a much more convenient place to access the 2 CAN bus wires in BRZ, FR-S, and GT86 models -- the Option Connector, located back behind the head unit (stereo). Picture:




In RHD cars, the location is mirrored (always nearer to the glove box).

The edges of the GPS antenna bracket is very sharp. Temporarily remove that for easier access.

You can use the 6-pin portion of a Metra 70-1761, Scosche TA02B, or equivalent harness to connect to that. Extract all of the wires you don't need. You can also re-pin them so the wire colors and labels match the functions on the +12V and ground pins (e.g., RED = +12V Accessory/Switched).

Pin-out:

1 - - 2
3 4 5 6
(looking at pins on factory plug, or rear [wires side] of aftermarket harness)

1 +12V Battery/Constant (20A Dome fuse)
2 Ground

3 +12V Accessory/Switched (7.5A Radio fuse)
4 CAN High
5 CAN Low
6 [NC]

The +12V lines are on the same circuits as those feeding the head unit.

[tofurun]

Originally Posted by SVXdc

For anyone else doing this (or tofurun, if you ever need to re-do it):

There is a much more convenient place to access the 2 CAN bus wires in BRZ, FR-S, and GT86 models -- the Option Connector, located back behind the head unit (stereo). Picture:

This wouldve been awesome 2 days ago.... This honestly would take any difficulty level out of installing this. Isnt like an aftermarket head unit even uses that oem connector anyways

[nickson555]

Hello!

I did the install of a Kenwood DNX573S with Maestro RR and HRN-RR-TO1 Wiring harness + the antenna adapter in my 2015 BRZ and added my Amp and 12" sealed sub I have since all my cars. The factory HU was so much a catastrophic failed POS that it only lasted 2 weeks in the car.

I don't know if everything is really compatible and I would like to validate if someone knows all the difference in the wiring harnesses between the two cars.

I flashed the Maestro RR with the Scion FR-S Firmware to take account of the HRN-RR-TO1 harness (Scary at first sight) Must use Scion wiring diagrams. The BRZ firmware and instructions are useless since it doesn't make use of the harness. So after I figured this out, the head unit was working. Yay.

-Radio is working but I don't know if antenna has power (read that the power wire is not at the same place?)

-All the iDatalink gauges are working and displayed on the new head unit as long as the open doors warning and some doors and lights settings but the TPMS is not working. It says N/A. Do we have those? Is it working on a FR-S?

-The harness has a OBD2 connector so no splicing.

-All speakers are working, fade/balance is ok. Amp remote power on is working. I don't know if the factory amp is still used?

-Nav works out of it's own Antenna installed beside the oem GPS antenna

-Bluetooth works with phone and music, Spotify. Works with it's own Microphone stuck on the cap where you are supposed to put the car key. Mine is keyless.

-OEM Aux in: Never tried. Edit: Not working
-OEM USB: Was supposed to be retained? But It's not working Maybe I didn't connect the OEM plug anywhere? I must figure that out.

-Kenwood's own USB cable in glovebox for now, works for iPhone, Carplay and Thumb drives

-I didn't connect a rear-view cam.

It sound so much better than the stock HU. It's ridiculous. It was laggy, irresponsive, slow. Useless and almost dangerous. With the sub and crossovers set correctly the sound is awsome even with the stock speakers. Also now you can have a phone conversation over BT.

[Luftwaffel]

The TPMS sensors probably dont have independent pressure readings. I have a question for you guys though. Does HVAC control work, and can you take a short video with sound of an engine rev with the RPM gauge on screen? Curious about responsiveness.

[nickson555]

complete HVAC is not supported I guess. I only have an options to disable Auto climate control and another for efficient venting. It's probably the option that cracks windshield in winter like it did on my 2010 wrx. When that start to blow air only when engine is super hot directly on your frozen winshield on the highway instead of gradually heat it from cold and cause a big suddent temp change.

For the Gauges responsiveness. If you're a console gamer you will think it's ok but if you are used to PC gaming you will think it's laggy. Just kidding. It's not super real smooth. Refreshes under 10 time/second. RPM gauge moves fast so it's very noticeable.
Never saw the ones in the new WRX to compare.

[Guru Woodman]

Originally Posted by nickson555

Hello!

-All the iDatalink gauges are working and displayed on the new head unit as long as the open doors warning and some doors and lights settings but the TPMS is not working. It says N/A. Do we have those? Is it working on a FR-S?

The 2015 Canadian BRZ's do not have TPMS sensors.

[megaorange]

Originally Posted by nickson555

Hello!

I did the install of a Kenwood DNX573S with Maestro RR and HRN-RR-TO1 Wiring harness + the antenna adapter in my 2015 BRZ and added my Amp and 12" sealed sub I have since all my cars. The factory HU was so much a catastrophic failed POS that it only lasted 2 weeks in the car.

I don't know if everything is really compatible and I would like to validate if someone knows all the difference in the wiring harnesses between the two cars.

I flashed the Maestro RR with the Scion FR-S Firmware to take account of the HRN-RR-TO1 harness (Scary at first sight) Must use Scion wiring diagrams. The BRZ firmware and instructions are useless since it doesn't make use of the harness. So after I figured this out, the head unit was working. Yay.

-Radio is working but I don't know if antenna has power (read that the power wire is not at the same place?)

-All the iDatalink gauges are working and displayed on the new head unit as long as the open doors warning and some doors and lights settings but the TPMS is not working. It says N/A. Do we have those? Is it working on a FR-S?

-The harness has a OBD2 connector so no splicing.

-All speakers are working, fade/balance is ok. Amp remote power on is working. I don't know if the factory amp is still used?

-Nav works out of it's own Antenna installed beside the oem GPS antenna

-Bluetooth works with phone and music, Spotify. Works with it's own Microphone stuck on the cap where you are supposed to put the car key. Mine is keyless.

-OEM Aux in: Never tried.
-OEM USB: Was supposed to be retained? But It's not working Maybe I didn't connect the OEM plug anywhere?

-Kenwood's own USB cable in glovebox for now, works for iPhone, Carplay and Thumb drives

-I didn't connect a rear-view cam.

It sound so much better than the stock HU. It's ridiculous. It was laggy, irresponsive, slow. Useless and almost dangerous. With the sub and crossovers set correctly the sound is awsome even with the stock speakers. Also now you can have a phone conversation over BT.

So you flashed it with the FRS Firmware? I wonder if thats why mine doesn't work. I got mine flashed as a BRZ.

[nickson555]

Originally Posted by Guru Woodman

The 2015 Canadian BRZ's do not have TPMS sensors.

Good to know. Good that I don't have this on the car as well.

[nickson555]

Originally Posted by megaorange

So you flashed it with the FRS Firmware? I wonder if thats why mine doesn't work. I got mine flashed as a BRZ.

I did that mistake first. The BRZ firmware is only for 3-4 output of the OBD2 and tell you to splice wires. Only to add Gaauges to the already installed HU.

When I tested, there was no 12V output on the Pin it was supposed to with Acc On, so the HU did not wake up. The iDatalink Maestro module outputs are controlled by the firmware to fit with the harness you install. The HRN-RR-TO1 for FRS.


When I changed the firmware, the first time it kinda faked it and it didn't really change. (I tried to change it before the first install) If you really change the model of the car on the web site in your profile, it will ask again for the Serial number of the new head unit.
With the FRS set in your idatalink profile, you will now see more features and it tell it requires the HRN-RR-TO1 harness to work with. The FRS wiring diagram also made much more sense. With this you don't use the small harness that comes with the Maestro RR.

As soon as I changed the firmware it worked. I'm mad because When I found the right FRS wiring diagram, I also tried to change the Firmware to be sure but when I plugged it back on the computer it said I had Subaru FW.

Edit: I also got the receipe to change the ugly boot screen of the new Kenwood like the DNX573S.

[megaorange]

Originally Posted by nickson555

I did that mistake first. The BRZ firmware is only for 3-4 output of the OBD2 and tell you to splice wires. Only to add Gaauges to the already installed HU.

When I tested, there was no 12V output on the Pin it was supposed to with Acc On, so the HU did not wake up. The iDatalink Maestro module outputs are controlled by the firmware to fit with the harness you install. The HRN-RR-TO1 for FRS.


When I changed the firmware, the first time it kinda faked it and it didn't really change. (I tried to change it before the first install) If you really change the model of the car on the web site in your profile, it will ask again for the Serial number of the new head unit.
With the FRS set in your idatalink profile, you will now see more features and it tell it requires the HRN-RR-TO1 harness to work with. The FRS wiring diagram also made much more sense. With this you don't use the small harness that comes with the Maestro RR.

As soon as I changed the firmware it worked. I'm mad because When I found the right FRS wiring diagram, I also tried to change the Firmware to be sure but when I plugged it back on the computer it said I had Subaru FW.

Edit: I also got the receipe to change the ugly boot screen of the new Kenwood like the DNX573S.

Cool. After flashing it with the FRS firmware it works just fine. Also changing that boot screen may be interesting.

[nickson555]

Originally Posted by megaorange

Cool. After flashing it with the FRS firmware it works just fine. Also changing that boot screen may be interesting.

Are you able to use the OEM USB and AUX line in?

If you have a 2016 kenwood DNX series like mine.
Put unit input on Stand by mode
tap screen top left 2x - bottom left 2x - top left - bottom left
Put a Fat32 USB flash drive on your unit with, at the root, an image file and a .txt file as described bellow. Click on "Opening Customize" and it will change to a Blue screen saying OK if it's good and the boot image will be set. ...or red and NG if you do something wrong.


Use photoshop or Gimp(free) Doesn't work with mspaint.

Image format needed:
800x480
.BMP
Save as a 16-bit RGB 5R6G5B

Text file named OpeningCustomize.txt :
File content:
Opening Customize
[FILE]grimspeed.bmp <------ (the name of your .bmp file)
[VERSION]9999
~END