Engine Rod #3 Bent 2013 Scion FRS

[Clipdat]

Here's your problem. Don't try to accelerate in third gear at 2k rpm.

Originally Posted by Brandond15

I put it into 3rd and it was at around 2k rpms and when I accelerated from there

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Brandond15

But the thing is, I know what lugging the engine feels like.. Done it before while learning to drive stick.. This felt different.

I have found that "lugging" this engine has a different feel than some other cars with more torque. Like mentioned above ....... I'd suggest you keep the revs up a bit further than you feel is necessary ...... your engine will be happier.

Also, new clutches need time to break in .... they act sort of ragged till they get smoothed off.


humfrz

[Brandond15]

Originally Posted by Shinigami301

Evidently, you don't.



(sheds lots of light on the issues you have had in the first place.)

Doesn't shed any light. Have only done it about 3-5 times before in the car, and every time I would just down shift. Trust me, I like having the revs higher up. It's just that I was told to keep the revs low for 1,000 miles for the break in period. They suggested I shift at 3.5k rpms so that's exactly what I'm doing. I must have just given it too much gas that one time.

[Clipdat]

I'm glad you finally got your car back. Keep us updated on how it goes day to day with the new motor.

I think by keep the revs down they probably just meant don't go redlining it in every gear or doing throttle blip rev matched downshifts as you approach every stop light or something else that could be considered hard on the clutch.

More important than keeping the revs down, I would say would be driving the car in a "smooth" fashion. Meaning, listen to the auditory response your motor is giving you and shift when it's easy/natural for it. It's not a very good rule to "always shift at 3.5k no matter what".

Just feel the car, listen to it's feedback, and give it smooth inputs and the break-in process will be fine.

[Icecreamtruk]

Originally Posted by Brandond15

Doesn't shed any light. Have only done it about 3-5 times before in the car, and every time I would just down shift. Trust me, I like having the revs higher up. It's just that I was told to keep the revs low for 1,000 miles for the break in period. They suggested I shift at 3.5k rpms so that's exactly what I'm doing. I must have just given it too much gas that one time.

Yup, you can shift low, just dont give it much gas, feather the pedal and let the car climp the rev ups slowly. There is nothing wrong with shift at lower rpms (as long as you dont fall so low that it stalls). Its the load that you give the engine at that point that matters.

[Brandond15]

Originally Posted by Clipdat

I'm glad you finally got your car back. Keep us updated on how it goes day to day with the new motor.

I think by keep the revs down they probably just meant don't go redlining it in every gear or doing throttle blip rev matched downshifts as you approach every stop light or something else that could be considered hard on the clutch.

More important than keeping the revs down, I would say would be driving the car in a "smooth" fashion. Meaning, listen to the auditory response your motor is giving you and shift when it's easy/natural for it. It's not a very good rule to "always shift at 3.5k no matter what".

Just feel the car, listen to it's feedback, and give it smooth inputs and the break-in process will be fine.

Yeah that's true, makes more sense when you say it that way. I'll definitely drive it smoothly! Thanks for the tips!

[billwot]

Originally Posted by Icecreamtruk

So still too low, if you drive low on rpms, dont push the gas pedal as much. High load / low rpms is what causes all of that vibration, and its coming from the engine, not from the clutch or transmition.

[strat61caster]

^OP has taken that incredibly well, credit to you.

imo the engine doesn't lug at >2k rpm no matter the gear or loading, sure it'll be slow as dog stink but it does sound like there's some little quirk still needing to be ironed out.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Brandond15

I guess you must have missed my post yesterday but I am paying the $2k labor. They called me yesterday saying the new engine came in but they told me if I change the clutch now, it's free installation so I ordered a new clutch from 86speed since it's a lot cheaper than Toyota's price... It is arriving today so I should have my car in a day or 2

New engine also comes with a 1 year unlimited mileage warranty so that's good too.

Originally Posted by Brandond15

Yeah, 1 year unlimited mileage!

We'll see if the extended warranty will reimburse me the $2,000

Originally Posted by Brandond15

Update:

Got my car back today from Toyota all fixed! Total labor I ended up paying was $1,555.

As stated earlier, I got a new clutch and flywheel installed at the same time as the engine.. I have a concern though..

I only drove the car about 10 minutes to get to work since I got it back right before work but I was nearing a stop light so I went to neutral and then it switched to green so I put it into 3rd and it was at around 2k rpms and when I accelerated from there, i felt it shake a lot as if the clutch were slipping. Is this because of the clutch break in period? Happened twice on 3rd gear when in low rpms under load.

Just want to make sure it's only because it's a brand new clutch and flywheel.. When it happened, I just down shifted into 2nd and it was fine. Then 3rd at higher rpm's was fine as well. (Been shifting at 3.5k rpms since it's a new engine and clutch)

Wait...
Wait...
Wait...

You went through all this hassle because the dealers said there were aftermarket parts on the car and then you had the dealer install aftermarket parts on the car? Kiss that warranty goodbye if they decide to blame the new flywheel for any future engine issues.

Oh and like the others said you were lugging the crap out of it at 2K in 3rd.

[Brandond15]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Wait...
Wait...
Wait...

You went through all this hassle because the dealers said there were aftermarket parts on the car and then you had the dealer install aftermarket parts on the car? Kiss that warranty goodbye if they decide to blame the new flywheel for any future engine issues.

Oh and like the others said you were lugging the crap out of it at 2K in 3rd.

The aftermarket parts they were referring to had to be something like a turbo or supercharger. They wouldn't deny warranty for stuff that wouldn't cause the engine to fail like that.

Also, I bought OE flywheel and clutch. Asked them if I could supply the flywheel and clutch and they said it was perfectly fine, won't mess with my warranty.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Brandond15

The aftermarket parts they were referring to had to be something like a turbo or supercharger. They wouldn't deny warranty for stuff that wouldn't cause the engine to fail like that.

Also, I bought OE flywheel and clutch. Asked them if I could supply the flywheel and clutch and they said it was perfectly fine, won't mess with my warranty.

Ya if OE then it meets the "equivalent" part requirements. Had me worried for a minute there. A bad or improperly installed flywheel can cause as much or more damage than a turbo.

[Brandond15]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Ya if OE then it meets the "equivalent" part requirements. Had me worried for a minute there. A bad or improperly installed flywheel can cause as much or more damage than a turbo.

Yeah, made sure it was OE! Don't want any more issues lol

[Brandond15]

So now that I've had more time to look at my car closer, I've noticed a few things.

Yesterday I just got my car and drove straight to work so didn't even have time to inspect it properly.. Once I got to work though, I noticed something.



I don't even know how they managed to bend my license plate like this. Got me a bit irritated but haven't talked to them yet.

Also, when I got off work at 4:30 am, I started the car and it started up just fine, but TPMS light came on. At first I thought "well it's cold right now, maybe a tire went slightly below the pressure spec because of it" and I looked at all of the tires just to make sure one wasn't completely low and they all looked fine.

Just went for a drive right now though and light was still on so I went to put some air and both the front tires were at 30 psi instead of 35 psi as it should be so I put some air in them and sure enough the light turned off... But here's an issue



I had just bought stem covers for my tires.. 3 of them still have them, passenger front tire though, missing.

I know these are little things but still, I believe I should have received my car the way it was when I took it in (well, except with a new engine of course).

[Toyarzee]

Peanut gallery over here i know, but just to gently interject... these things are other worldly unimportant in comparison to some of the other things to be sensitive about, like oil consumption, running temp ranges, knock detection, etc. License plate can be removed and bent back and most tire shops give those petty dust caps away by the bucket and aren't even necessary anyway...

But how did they bend the plate and not damage the mount..